Boothy

Definition of "Expert" Expert is a 2 part word Part 1, "Ex" definition of Ex = a has been Part 2, "spert" definition of spurt = a drip under pressure Summary; definition of an expert is, "A has been drip under pressure", Does Adrian fall into this catagory ????

Looks like there's a strong possibilty that Saley might not be competeing in his own vehicle and may end up bitching for Glynn Yates. His own motors not ready, its got the A frame still broken from the last Howlin Wolf's err, err, SLIP UP which damaged it a bit.

A mate of mine recently re-planted a 3.9EFi into his hybrid and has had nothing but problems getting it to run right or even run well enough to get it out of the workshop. Couple of phone calls later your's trully ends up on the job, payback for lots of help in the past. A night of checking why it wouldn't rev etc ending up in dizzy out, dizzy moved, dizzy swapped, ages spend doing diagnostics from memory etc and setting timing, checking plugs, leads, coil, spraying around for leaks, pipes and breathers wrong or split, fuel pressure, etc, etc, but still no better. Then on the way home when I had a bit more thinking time, I thought the one thing I haven't checked is that the injectors are in circuit and working, so another night on the cards. Second visit with decent meter and leads, following forum downloaded diagnostic sheets, success, testing on resistance left hand injector rail from ecu multiplug, then removing injector plugs one by one revealed that an injector was not in circuit, after pulling back the shroud it was easy to see that a crimp was not seated and was pushed back into plug. Onto right hand circuit of injectors, and hello hit and miss this side and we find a broken wire to all four injectiors, a quick repair later and a last one by one check again revealled exactly the same problem as the other side, a loose crimp. So to sum up, left rail one was missing constantly, right rail one was missing constantly but all were missing intermittantly. How long would it have taken without the meter and the guide, if at all, and would we have ended up changing the loom and the ECU for no real reason ??? Result a very sweet 3.9EFi and it took about 20 minutes to get it bang on with the minimum of effort with the guide. Easy peasy well done tech archieve.

Well Dumber 'n' Dumber having a pop now, read the Big name on the trophy girls, you stand a cahnce of winning the "Shelia's wheels" award, but I think you pair would struggle to roll your sleeping bag up, without a grown up to help you.

You've got the perfect event in 2weeks time at Matlock Bath'ish with the Northern Winch Challenge, its 30 minutes or so away from Stoke and is perfect for a beginner. Check the thread out, its not a Holymoorside anymore its at Lea Mill which is a superb site and if your not that confident you can keep out of other competitors way there. Simple answer to disable difflocks is to pull the fuse out of the pump, or jubilee clip/bolt the operating cables down depending on the type. Doesn't matter how big your motor is it will get to a punch, the axles are all the same width in general, don't get listening to much to off-green bowlers and find out for yourself, they said the world was flat and you couldn't breathe above 12 mph, oh and don't wear green socks, they make you lose traction, if you get my drift. Cue smart arses....

Oh my God, the Olympic Flames comin out is it ? It was last seen at the launch of the Titanic, let membership not hamper his entry please Matt, he don't need much of an excuse,

Hey I like this string idea, sounds like it should do the job, worst case senario is that it doesn't work and I have to take the head off, its not the end of the world I was just trying to save the effort. Found out since that the post 94 stem seals are different, now I have got to find if they will fit pre 94 heads (cannot see why not) and make a tool that willl let them be fitted over the valve stem. Thanks guys

When I rebuilt my V8 a couple of years ago, I had a bright idea of not fitting valve rubbers, 2 reasons being is they hardly do anything on a V8, as they are quite a dry head, and what bit is up there may help when things get a bit hot i.e. challenges. No problems with this method for a couple of years until I filled the sump with Kirton gritwater this year, I immeadiately dropped the oil gave it a couple of good flushes refilled and heated it right up twice, and hey-ho its OK now, nearly. But what is does do now is smoke at times, usually for a bit when its cold and usually just after a good revving session, none at all when working hard under load and none when accellerating hard, if its hot and left ticking over for ages and then revved it will give a good cloud out which will then clear, anyway oil pressure is good and no other problems are apparent, except it will sometimes missfire after its been smoking a bit, which can be expected. Last Sunday on the Howlin Wolf it tipped quite a bit onto its drivers side (45* or more) and was there for a few minutes while we got it out the hole it had fell in, but at this point it smoked quite heavy, oily smoke, leading me to think that it had filled the right hand rocker box full of oil (or a lot more than usual) and then this had in turn had ran down the valve stem and been burned off. Whenever I remove the plugs it never gives it away as to what cylinder is miss-behaving or oiling up which is proper annoying. So this sort of proved to me a bit what I already suspected that its valve guide problems, more than likely not helped by Kirton and MAY be rectified slightly by having some stem rubbers/seals fitted, until closed season next winter when a good stripdown is planned. So the question is, if I make a tool that will bolt in place where the rocker post was, and then fit over the valve top, and then when the piston is at the top of the bore if I push the said tool, will the valve hitting the top of the piston, stopping the valve from dropping any further give me enough to remove the collets and valve spring etc and also allow refitting in the same method?? Or is there already a tool in existance that is made for this job, that saves removing the head for a minor op, Ford had a similar tool for some engines if I remember correctly. 2nd question has anybody fitted other types of valve stem seal, and as previously mentioned Ford CVH type which fitted over the valve stem and then went on to fit under valve spring to complete the job, and provide an excellent seal, or will this be to much of a seal, i.e. run to dry if you know what I mean. Any thoughts out there boys, all this just saves disturbing the head gaskets I know. Thanks Guys

Why didn't you just swap the springs around left for right ???, its a lot quicker Essex lad

I'll give you three guesses Alan

Well I should be camping, no doubt that the last boy scout, AKA Saley will be also, Glynn Yates and probably Barry "The Donk" Gee, plus of course all the retrospective co-drivers that make up the teams. C'mon Marsie are you going to surface for this one ???, you will love the site, good site for camping as well. Who else is up for this one MrHT ?????? In fact I'm really looking forward to this as Saley and I have a joint win to defend, so that could take some sorting out, don't forget to get a bookmark or something for Glynn, he's still sulking you know.

I have no issues with green Bosch ones, find the very cheap ones vibrate you to death after a few hours of use.

I used hydraulic hose on mine, because its flexible, will stand an impact, it can be routed on top of the chassis rail under the motor, oh and didn't cost anything. Have a look at the next round if you still haven't done it. But make sure you have a very capable fan because you get zero airflow, i've got a 16" Pacet profan and a 12" Spal comp fan, its great at the back with the big V8 running hard, don't half get you warm its like a massive hairdryer standing behind it, and thats on a Chevy 5.7 V8 race car alloy radiator Have a search on history there has been quite a few posts on it in the past, Chris

Hey Titus Whats lurking inside these FOC oil coolers, waiting to be dislodged by some nice shiney expensive V8 with a bit more oil pressure than the last knacker it was fitted to that was degrading and leaving bits of tappet and other carp all around its oilways, just waiting to move into your much loved shiney Rocketship V8, be very carefull of using old oilcoolers they may not be the bargain you thought they were. If your short of pennies I could send you my old sump oil if yours needs changing for newer, if you pay the postage, get my drift, sorry for being sarky but wouldn't want you to destroy a nice motor matey.

The "flange" you refer to Nige is technically called a swage, ficko, but your Sarf of Watford, What I did is to use push fit Dash 10 braided hose, jubilee clipped on because its only 60psi or so and not the 2000psi that hydraulic hose people are used to, that is wire reinforced etc and is a pig to to fit and shape and keep there. Most motorsport people sell -10 or similar, but it ain't cheap, they should also supply all the 90/45/60* bends and straights etc, Demon Tweaks should stock and will happly relieve you of your beer vouchers, also check your cooler for thread size BSP, BSP tapered, metric etc. There are cheaper than Demon Tweaks if you mooch about. But remember a poor sh**e job/pipe and a couple of thousand revolutions on the tarmac and it bursts and its tits up for the old V8 pal, so make it good and buy decent, to late when the oils gone and the light suddenly come's on. I think it cost me about £80 for fittings and about 6 foot of -10 pipe (Dash 10mm pipe) Hope that helps Pal

I've got some clamp on ones we use at work thanks Mick, the problemis I don't want to get caught out again with a duffer, you put a recon on and expect it to work as it should, put your meter on and see 14 volts so your off elsewhere testing looking for a fault, and after an hour your back to the alternator, in the middle of a competition this is, and now you've also got flat winch batteries as well. See the problem, thanks very much for the offer. Chris

I usually test an alternator by checking voltage of the battery before starting and watching the voltage rise upon starting to somewhere around 13.8 ish, also making sure that the exite terminal is also powered up 12 volts or so, before cranking to exite the field coils. Now when its started and producing 13.8 ish volts thats usually been enoiugh to satisfy me that the alternator is charging the batteries, but this Sunday whilst on the Howlin Wolf challenge the winch batteries went flat, these are 2 big yellow top optima's in parrallel fed of a seperate alternator to the vehicle wiring, purely so they don't affect anything to do with running of the engine etc. The batteries are parrallelled in 75mm copper and the cable supply from the alternator is multi stranded 25mm copper, bolted to the alternator terminal, all crimps have been properly crimped by a Hypress tool with the correct dyes fitted and are clean and secure, the alternator also has a seperate earth run to the chassis and to the alternator. Problem was there was 14 volts being indicated coming out of the alternator but the batteries were hardly charging, it a new reconditioned 100A alternator and was superb last round of the H/Wolf all day, the way round it for the day was to link temporary the vehicle alternator across to the winch alternator cable and let it charge that way, which it did. Problem being that with electric waterpump, 4 electric fans, fuel pump and Megasquirt, etc there wasn't much spare to charge the extra batteries. Question is how do I tell what is the current output from a 100A alternator without lots of extra wiring and gauges and what would prevent an alternator from giving its maximum current output to the batteries, I know there is a simple answer of carrying as pare dual handed alty but how to check it full possible output is being produced is puzzleing me, also if it is 100A output is that constant to a full load and could that be measure by using a clamp on ammeter which I've got but am not sure what I should be measuring. By the way the red charge light was being extinguished. Technical help please boys.

We had an absolute howler, puncture on first punch, back to car park, Second punch lost all battery power dragged out, thanks Kevin/Adrian, set of back to car park, lost concentration drove straight into cess pit, oh my God did it smell, but no winches, thank you Wanyne/Rhondi, it was a bubbling stinking nightmare, 15 foot deep one friendly spectator told me, that re-assurred me after an hour of slowly sinking, SS2 the lad had a brainwave, "I've had an idea", so we slid across with limited winch power, knocked a bloody big tree over, and then fell in the root hole, great idea son keep em coming, Then found out every time you touch a tree in the rain with no windsreen, you get a COLD shower, Thanks to Carol Neil and the crew, loved every minute of it, time to take me smoking valve guides out now. See you soon.

It'll be good to see you back Alan, been gettin tame if you know what I mean.

Cannot wait Barney, I should be all OK, so should Saley, think Barry "The Donk" Gee needs the practice, Glynn Yates should be OK, Mr Kemp well whoknows when he will emerge from the lab with his new creation. So bring it on boys we're up for it, Anybody reading and wondering, its a fantastic woodland site with rocks and all sort of things in a beautifull setting, a couple of Miles from Matlock Bath near Derby, Trust me its a good site.

I think I've finally cracked my steering problem, just keep my fingers crossed it's right, I suppose if there's one site where you may like steering this is it. I'd got a very tight pair of CV's that I could hardly move when I took em' out. Just got to keep the lad free from alcohol Sat night and we are away, wipers still not working though and I bad weather fore casted, we'll see, or not perhaps. See you all Sunday

C'mon lads what's happening with an alternative site, is there any news yet???

C'mon Nobby please tell us it's another steep Welsh hillside with the trees "bluetacked" in loose slate, I'm kinda gettin used to them , Funny thing is I think I may have been here on a playday, with Saley, Glynn and Alan Kemp Great stuff it's the right end of the country again, only 2 hours.

I own a 4.2LWB 1997 and it's commonly known a Y60, great big ugly mother, pulls like Brad Pitt, I use it for towing my challenge motor up and down. When I did a front halfshaft seal I thought I'd treat the front axle to an oil change, 5 litres of EP90 it took, kept looking to see if I'd done something wrong, but they are seriously big diff 'n' halfshafts and CV's look very robust compared to Landy stuff. Keep yer fingers of my axles when its parked upon the Howlin Wolfs please, especially you Dirty Diesel. Cheers lads

I've had mine at some stupid angles (especially with the mid winch) and only once had a problem at Wern-Du, Corwen, last year when it stood up vertical on its nose and it dropped oil pressure which is the point I turned it off, I use a mechanical gauge and keep my eye on it (no not the glass one) when it starts defying gravity. It was up to 80-85* stood up, bruised my rids (even with padding) on the harnesses and the lad could'nt reach the rear winch rope for ages to pull it back down It didn't fully hydraulic but turned over very slowly so I left it a couple of mins and hey presto, incidentally I don't run valve guide rubbers any more, keeps the top moist, just smokes a little bit at times but I can live with that. You will find the point of damage when it all goes t*ts up and stops, shall we all buy a land meter and report in ?