miketomcat
-
Posts
5,554 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
150
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by miketomcat
-
-
Thinking about it I'm not sure whether the transer boxes in either 45 or the 110 came out of 90's or 110's.
The ibex transfer box is from a 110 but figured they won't check that if they see a disco Speedo and disco size tyres. I couldn't use the mach5's even if I wanted to as they project slightly outside the arches, that's also a fail.
Mike
-
Failing that ed I've done several now including the one in Jon's ambulance if you need a hand.
Mike
-
On mine it wouldn't prime with the manual lever without the spacer and it didn't start. With the spacer it primed which allowed us to fill the filter then it started.
Mike
-
It's not that easy and if I remember correctly disco and 110 use the same Speedo gear. 45's Speedo (discovery speedo) read about 20% out when I swapped to 33's (until I pulled the needle off and re-positioned it
, it's bang on till 50 now). Where as the 110 (standard Speedo) is only 10% out. Hopefully I've found a set of wolf's with 205's on I can borrow.
When I built my abs freestyle it used a push bike Speedo (now banned for IVA). I had to provide proof that it was calibrated correctly, I had a print out from a 1/4 mile run granted it wasn't for my car but the sva man didn't need to know that. Where as if you use tyres (the correct size any way), gearbox (Speedo drive) and Speedo head from the same vehicle it's taken as calibrated correctly.
Mike
-
As I said earlier replace your bias valve.
Mike
-
err the screen frame is aluminium so if your just changing the screen no problems ours is 34 years old and under the rubber was pristine. If on the other hand your taking the frame out good luck you'll need it
.
Mike
-
I'm using a discovery Speedo so I have to have discovery sized tyres or have it recalibrate and then it has to be tested at one of only a few (and even less that can do 4x4) centres.
Mike
-
1 hour ago, Lewis said:
There is an alternative I’ve seen on eBay before, but it’s a vile looking cut and shut job
If I ever run out of other jobs to do on my 90 I’d like to remake the downpipe out of stainless, but only because I can
Careful you might get some orders. There was someone on here that made their own out of stainless and it was beautiful.
I bought a 200tdi disco for £500 recently 157k and doesn't smoke (yet) I had to free off the boost pin.
Mike
-
Mine is 5 seat and I'm putting in for m1 IVA I believe all other ibex have gone through n1 as it is easier but as said the restrictions are a pain. I'd forgotten the 50mph on dual carriageway and 60 on motorway thing there is A lot of vans being caught on this at the moment.
My previous experience with phoning the DVLA puts me off when I built the tomcat I phoned them about registration and was told just mot it. I phoned again and was told it needed sva but was then put through to someone who said it needed a Vic. It transpired at that time if it passed the Vic you re-registered it kept your number plate but changed the discription (this is what I did). If it failed the Vic then it needed an sva.
Mike
-
I'm with lewis the down pipe is fine mine turned up no problem but that was 9 years ago. The second one wasn't bought by me but fits and works fine. For down pipe I don't think you have much option.
Mike
-
Western steels in reaonable condition are surpisingly hard to find given I only want to borrow them.
Lewis I've only been going on what he said but I'll check with him as I plan to MOT before IVA.
Mike
-
According to my MOT man above 3000kg is class 7. Which is why a 110 station wagon is 2950kg and a hard top etc is 3050kg. The disco is 2720kg and 90 is 2400 station and 2550 hard top etc but they all have a 3500kg towing weight. I need it to be class 4 because a I like my mot man, he doesn't do class 7 and my brother in law lives in London (£120 a day or whatever it is now is not appealing).
The biggest problem I'm having is wheels i need disco diameter but most alloys aren't rated high enough. So I either need boosts or steels but with either 205x16 or 235/75x16. That or I drop the gvw down to discovery.
-
Sorry yes it's steve Parker exhaust and conversion kits it was late. My down pipe is mild steel and has lasted 9 years so far but I agree I would go stainless if I did it again
-
A disco 200tdi needs td engine mounts (they bolt straight on). The flywheel housing needs some studs moving and 4 holes countersinking and bolts fitting. You need the radiator intercooler and frame from the disco but you either mod the mounts at the top or the ones at the bottom. I would recommend getting the glyn lewis exhaust down pipe (A must) and they do intake and water pipe kits (you can sort these yourself though). It is possible to retain the viscous fan but you must have a 4 bolt steering box and you need a td cowl fitted upside down. Most just go electric fan.
Mid conversion in our 90.
Disco 200tdi all fitted in the 90.
Disco 200tdi engine in our 110 electric fan this time though. It's not a hard job but does require a little thought. I would buy a complete disco to get most of the parts you need.
Mike
-
That was my plan though I will use the station wagon weights not hard top as I want it on a class 4 MOT not a class 7.
Mike
-
Did you fit the spacer with the lift pump as I discovered some pumps need this spacer otherwise the pump never goes off cam. You probably wouldn't notice this at first as the injection pump can draw enough to run the truck but not enough to pull it all the way from the tank or fill the filter. Disconnect the fuel pump at the filter and crank the engine if you get lots of fuel your problems filter or on. If you only get little or no fuel then check the supply and feed are the right way round on the pump if so fit the spacer and check again.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Steering wheel done.
Rear number plate space and light. This serves several purposes first it covers some sharp edges. Second I covers the rear fairlead. However this is all temporary because I don't want the number plate in this position. I can't fit it where I want it because although there's enough room for a number plate the "test" plate is bigger.
Unfortunately life is very much getting in the way at the moment so progress is desperately slow. The front seat belts are also in as is the glove box cover.
The finishing list is.
Hand brake gaiter
Sand rust off discs
Fit tow bar
Clear out
Fit rear carpet
Sort the leaks if I get chance (these have badly marked the load bay head lining to the point it will need replacing)
Fit the "IVA" wheels
I want to MOT it before the IVA as I have a friendly MOT man who will allow me to check and adjust if necessary the brakes and emissions.
Stamp the axle and gross weights on the vin plate (I may leave this as I'm not sure what weights to use and I can take stamps with me)
IVA......
Mike
-
People leave stuff behind every year. It sickens me that people expect others to clear up after them. Several around me did the same. I've been in most places over the years les where you were is fine if the weather is good, but if like yesterday the weather is poor the nearer the entrance the better.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Saw several members. Sold enough to make it worthwhile and mostly the bigger bits so space made. Packed up early had a quick wander but most were going by then due to the sky leaking.
Mike
-
I'll be there in this.
Different trailer though.
Come say hi I might be bored as it looks like I'm only going to have our springer for company.
Mike
-
Brake bias valve?
Mike
-
I don't think it is as it spun freely when I had a wheel lifted but I will check.
Mike
The way my luck has been running recently I'm thinking a collapsed bearing.
-
Having driven 45 it judders at low speed especially when coming to a stop
. I've jacked up each wheel and spun it. There doesn't seem to be any tight spots or noise. The only thing I can find is if I spin the front prop I can feel a slight snagging through the hand brake drum even with the t box in neutral. If I remember correctly the output bearings can be changed in situ but I'm concerned this maybe a waste of time. Looks like a replacement t box is on the cards. Oh joy I haven't done any spannering for at least 2 days. 
Mike
-
You have put 4 pot calipers on the back therefore it requires more fluid to move them giving long pedal travel. If you fit the correct calipers your problems should go away. To be honest in my opinion front calipers on the back is dangerous. If you brake hard the excess brake force on the rear will cause the truck to become unstable and likely crash.
Mike
, it's bang on till 50 now). Where as the 110 (standard Speedo) is only 10% out. Hopefully I've found a set of wolf's with 205's on I can borrow.
. I've jacked up each wheel and spun it. There doesn't seem to be any tight spots or noise. The only thing I can find is if I spin the front prop I can feel a slight snagging through the hand brake drum even with the t box in neutral. If I remember correctly the output bearings can be changed in situ but I'm concerned this maybe a waste of time. Looks like a replacement t box is on the cards. Oh joy I haven't done any spannering for at least 2 days. 
Heated windscreen
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I only broke it with a sofa and then broke it some more (pigeon attack) then I fitted a replacement.
Mike