miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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Chassis swap on the 110.
Change seat box on the 110.
Turn the roof bars into a roof rack on the ibex.
're panel out the back of the ibex.
Sort various bit on the new to me sankey trailer:
Move spare wheel to the front.
Mod the lid so it opens more, the gas struts work and it latches down properly.
Fit fuse box! charging and generally sort the electrics.
're locate number plate and light.
Mike
P.S. move house and therefore a bigger garage.
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On 12/27/2019 at 8:59 AM, Ed Poore said:
Not that I'm picking on Ross but I wonder whether James can build a workshop and finish his 110 before Ross finishes his...
You are and he's fair game I just hope Ross doesn't do a Will Warne on us and never finish it.
Mike
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Very good. Have a good Xmas one and all.
Mike
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Rod may bend better as you have no stress riser from the corners/edges.
Mike
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Both our 110 and ibex are through flux all mods declared (although what's a mod and what's not is up for debate on the ibex). The 110 had a car pull out on it while the wife was driving (named driver) flux were very helpful although the claim ended up going direct to the 3rd party insurer. I've had kit or modified cars all my life and used flux for most of them. Equally I know a couple of people that have had no end of trouble with them. Make of that what you will.
Mike
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Ah that's what the soft top ewok is for drive in fill to the brim with muddy water drive out and dump elsewhere. Easy ditch clearing......
Mike
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1 hour ago, western said:
My 110CSW already has a glass sunroof & it doesn't leak.
Been on there for 20 years, never opened but doesn't leak
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It'll start leaking this year now you know that don't you
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Mike
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I've got discovery 1 headlight washer pump and jets fitted to the ibex (and the tomcat before that). The pump fits one of the under wing type tanks (might be a military one though) it's plumbed with something like 8mm ID hose. There's a non return valve at the split (also discovery 1 item). I then cut the jets down the fit on the bonnet.
they are quite powerful but the tank does empty quickly if your not careful.
Mike
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And it will fit over the ribs in my roof without having to cut them.....
Mike
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1 hour ago, TSD said:
My current fave is the Varta Stop-Start Plus batteries. Ibex has two fitted, and 2Bex is slated to get the same when built. This is just an experiment on my part - Varta suggest they shouldn't be fitted to non stop-start vehicles (presumably they benefit from the smart charging schemes in modern cars), but I've found no downsides so far. (I have one in the D3 as well, but that does have the smart alternator control, even though not stop-start).
I'm also taking part in TSD's experiment though he may not remember. I have two varta stop start batteries in my ibex but they were in our 110 and the one before that as well so they are 6 years old now.
Mike
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I can probably get them to Basingstoke assuming fridge doesn't mind (probably should unbolt the roof at some point).
Mike
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If your willing to make or repair then you can save money. But it will cost you more than you plan.
Mike
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There is a great 100 build in members vehicles.
Well worth a read.
Mike
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24v to 12v dropper and a standard wiper motor or convert the whole truck to 12v not the cheapest solution but cheaper in the long run.
Mike
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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
There must be done way to stop the flake.
Take the paint off and polish them....ok....ok.....I'm going now.
Mike
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1 hour ago, GBMUD said:
Is it not recyclable PET?
Chris
If you can find somewhere that will take it. There are lots of recyclable items that are almost impossible to get recycled. Mind I drive a gas guzzling recycled car, that really messes with the greenys when I point out my car is greener than theirs.
Mike
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@Daan uses polished stainless sheet in his if I remember correctly.
Mike
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I have a corded makita recip saw rarely use it.
I also have an aeg oscillator but I use fein blades there blades are far better than an others I've tried. I have cut through m10 stainless bolts, aluminium panels, wood and grp. As said there are different blades for different jobs.
Mike
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22 hours ago, Alex Staffs4x4 said:
Hi Mike
Really glad to see you have completed the build now.
Last time I checked in you had just packed it up for a while.
Looks really nice.
Mine is still in bits
All the best
Alex
Thanks Alex I'm really pleased with it and use it as my daily driver. Hopefully I'll be able to get to the next ibex meet as i missed the one last year by a couple of months.
@Snagger the alternator is a straight swap mounting wise bar the m10 holes and upgrade to the wiring. I paid £20 for a second hand item but you do need to be careful to get the right one (The s#*tpart up grade is a Mondeo alternator by the looks of it). The pulley I used came off a Mondeo alternator that had been fitted to a 200tdi but looks to be relatively easy to fit and shim to line up.
Mike
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I have the same panel and controller as fridge but only one. The controller is mounted in the car connected to one of my 110 ah varta AGM batterys. The other identical battery is connected to the engine and 90 amp Mondeo alternator. Between the two I have a voltage sensing relay (adjusted lr rear window item) that runs a solenoid. My winch, fridge (waceo cf25) etc run off the second battery so if it goes flat I can still start. My panel is connected to the car via a plug mounted on the back so I can place the panel in the sun. The only problem is storing the panel while moving from site to site. My system worked well in Scotland and kept the fridge running for 3 days without moving the car no problem.
Mike
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I think Richard hawes put this combo in his Dlander.
there is a picture of the engine bay there.
Mike
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I'm going to ask why? If for eds latter reason you have five doors if you can't get out of one of them your not getting out period. If the perspex is 4mm you'd probably kick it out if needed. If your that worried cut some little triangles out of the edge in two places to force a crack to form. Failing that as ed also says a z shape frame with door type seal then thicker perspex hinged and catched.
Mike
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If it's come out of a van it may have a run time cut off fitted. BT had one to stop them being run for more than an hour or so at a time. From memory is a black box with a couple of wires you need to cut it out and re-join the wires. My D1lc had one.
Mike
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Speaking of alternators mine was getting a little rumbly so today I upgraded to a Mondeo item. I had to open the back to connect a lead to run my tacho. Fitting is easy, however I will make some sleeves at some point as the holes on the alternator are m10 and the bolts on a 200tdi are m8, but it's on for now. Now because the engine is a disco 200tdi it has a 65amp alternator as opposed to the 45amp job on a defender. But either way the wiring is not man enough to take the 30-90amp Mondeo alternator. So I have replaced the cable from the alternator to the starter with 10mm2 (the cable to battery is 50mm2 anyway). I'm now seeing better voltages at the batterys now too. No photos because shortly after I started it began to rain.
Mike
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Fitting a CB.
in International Forum
Posted
Fit a cable gland any where that works for you.
Between capping and truck cab back.
Mike