stuck

If you don't have any joy on here give Richards Chassis a call, they don't cost much.

Zinc plating or galv does more than spit & stink, it's highly toxic and should be removed before welding. No I'm not a H&S nut but somebody that's new to welding needs to know that. Edit: sorry just realized you said a mask should be worn.

Insurance is correct for the engine & all the other mods. Strangely I insured the 110 for less declaring the 4.6 that what it cost me with a main stream company for the Td5.

Thanks John, I've sent Nige a few beer tokens so I'm sorted.

Having had one dug out of my right eye I'll second that!

^^^^^ As Ralph has said you may need a letter from a garage stating that they fitted the engine. When I fitted the 4.6 to my 110 I sent off the V5 with the updated details, it was returned a week later without the engine details being updated. Three days later I had a letter from the nice people at the DVLA saying I needed said letter from a garage. As my local MOT man gave it a ticket as it is I haven't bothered and probably won't unless I ever have to sell her.

Excellent, thanks Nige.

Thanks Ralph but I'm confused, Paddocks states ETC5598 is for a "3.5 V8 EFI except 31D engine" Your list says a 31D is a 3.5? Mick.

Gents, Having seen that my CCV truck doesn't die when passing within a mile of a puddle a mate of mine wants me to 'squirt his. I'm going to be ordering the bits next week but I'm not sure about what to do with the lambda sensor. The couple of trucks I've squirted in the past have all had a "Y" piece in the exhaust but this one doesn't, it's running two separate exhaust pipes (yes it sounds cr@p) & due to mods underneath there isn't room to fit one. As the truck will not go any where near a road (or a MOT centre) can I run MS in an open loop mode without the sensor or am I going to have to find someway of mounting two sensors? Cheers in advance, Mick.

Gents, I need a new throttle position potentiometer for a 3.9 (non serp) Our favourite Russian website lists the two part numbers in the title, one for a 31D & one that isn't. I haven't a clue what 31D refers to (serp front end?) so could someone confirm which part number I need please? Thanks, Mick.

Cheers chaps, Nige, Will be placing an order for coil packs, dumpy dizzy, trigger wheel etc next week can you give me a cost for the tubing please? I need 5 meters, PM me if you prefer. Ta muchly, Mick.

Hi Gent's, Can anybody point me in the direction of an online supplier for the tubing that goes to the ECU please? I can't find any localy. Thanks, Mick.

Adam, The welder you have will suffice as long as you don't try and run it in gasless mode. It wont be great but it will do what you want it to with practice.

If it comes to that Adam don't scrap it. Break it for parts (it's parts are worth more than the car), that way you should get back what you paid for the truck in the first place, probably more.

Is a quote from Wikipedia sufficent for your needs? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_engines#200Tdi_.28Engine_Code_11L.29

To be honest I don't think £800 is unreasonable for that amount of work. Sorry Don't forget that the holes you can actualy see will only be the tip of the iceberg.

I've got some OMP racing ones. I was given them so haven't a clue where they were purchased from I'm afraid.

Sounds like the clutch release bearing to me. Every Land Rover I've owned has done this after a while, not sure it would be included in the small print of your warranty...

Indeed they do.

I tried to mount a 35" bogger on my roof, nearly 'kin killed me getting it up there. If yours is a standard wheel & tyre and / or you're built like a brick outhouse then why not, it's out of the way after all. How you would mount it is entirely down to the type of roof rack you have.

If I'm reading your post correctly you want to know the top speed of an unspecified car that will be using a LR engine? Whole lot more of information needed there including gear box ratios, diff ratio, tyre sizes etc, etc...

Everyone has to start learning to weld some where but as above, on the car isn't the best place to start. Take a look here: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm Don't wish to make you feel even worse but a Clarke gasless Mig isn't the best machine out there... If its one of the ones that you can convert to gas I recommend you do so, the wire you use in "gasless" mode is awful.

No it wasn't Luke, Thanks for that, will give it a go tomorrow. I've no Idea if it's reliant upon Java though.

Cheers, That would be great.

Tried that thanks chaps, doesn't work. Although if it worked for you please let me know.