stuck

From the accents in the video I guess it was filmed in Yorkshire or in my neck of the woods but does anyone know the site?

Jason, When you know what kind of money you are looking at could you either post on here or PM me please as my father is looking for a decent series 1. Thanks, Mick.

Typical, I threw a set of grey seats in a skip at the weekend!

...Without somebody stood directly behind the blue 110!

Could be the steering column rubbers Simon. Very common on a Td5, unfortunatley you have to change the entire column shaft.

Dirtyninety's method does work but as he say's you need to take precautions! I've done it three times (on different batteries) it worked twice, none of them went bang!

Hmm, HD, I'd love to see the light weight version. Let us know how you get on with the claim, should be fun!

It's repairable if the RR is cheap enough & the rest of it is sound.

Thanks chaps, Once I've emptied the back of the 110 I'll have a look, I may be some time...

Ah, Yes it looses the time as well. Cheers Ed, didn't realise there was a battery on the motherboard, are they relaceable do you know?

Gents, Forgive me if this is too off topic. The in car pc I use for MS / nav etc has developed a bit of an issue. When it boots up it's stopping before Windows loads and reporting a floppy disk failure, odd thing is it doesn't have a floppy drive. If I go into the bios it's defaulting to floppy disk as the primary boot device, if I change this to HDD it starts up ok, turn the ignition off and it will do the same thing the next time I turn it on. (yes I'm telling it to save settings before exiting the bios). Any ideas why it's doing this?

Sorry Sir, Haven't a clue why it's doing that.

John, Is it leaking from the body of the switch or from where the switch screws in to the fitting? I guess you mean it's from the switch itself in which case I haven't a bloody clue I'm afraid!

Cheers G, I may need to take you up on that. I've found the reason No.1 plug looked so new, injector wasn't ehm, injecting. Sorted that and it's running a lot better. I've also moved the crank sensor as far as it will go on the bracket but the timing marks still look about 60 degrees out, this is confusing the hell out of me. Engine is running a lot better just don't understand the timing mark issue.

John, If you don't get any further with it post your location & someone near by may give you a lift. Failing that post it to me & I'll mark it up for you.

Ok John, Get your old switch (assuming it's still working) put your meter on continuity (ohms) and measure the resistance across the two terminals where the wires were connected. The switch should either be normally open ( infinite resistance ) or normally closed ( 0 resistance ) once you have found which it is try to find the same set or terminals on your new switch. Once you have established which terminals you think it should be you should ideally try to get it to change state before the PRV on your compressor lifts. Edit: obviously on a compressor it's uber important that you get this right, can you apply pressure to the switch at work to check it changes state? HTH's Mick.

Can't tell from the picture John. Do you have a multimeter?

Cheers for that Bowie. I've never had to remove an injector, does a RAVE manual exist for the 4.6?

Cheers Bowie, I'll "glue" them back in in the morning. I've found why it's running rough, nothing to do with the plenum after all.. If you get chance would appreciate you having a look at the MS section, could use some advice. Thanks, Mick.

Hi Gordon, Found TDC by removing rocker cover, bored out an old spark plug (what a bitch that is) and inserting a length of nylon rod. Turn crank until No.1 is at TDC with both valves closed & mark pulley either side of TDC, timing mark slap bang in the middle. Took the plugs out tonight & something is certainly out of whack: Plug on No.1 looks like it's straight out of the box (all 8 have done less than 100 miles) Timing marks aside engine is certainly not running on all 8 as the pic would indicate. Can't drive it over as the mot has expired & I don't think it's going to pass the emissions some how running on 7 cylinders

Gent's, Just taken the plenum off my 4.6 to reseal it & have found that the "trumpet" for No.7 has come out completely and the one for No.5 is very loose! Couple of questions if you don't mind: Would this cause the engine to run roughly? How should they be held in? Cheers, Mick.

I think you know the question you need to ask: Am I concerned about fuel consumption?

I'd start with the one under the rocker cover as that is subjected to the worst of the heat & vibration.

When I did mine I just cut the lead at 45 degrees, lubed it with some Fairy and they went on fine. Edit: "Lubed it with some Fairy" could have phrased that it a better way!

^^^^^ What he said, just be patient.