stuck

Excellent, Thanks for that.

Gent's, I want to make up a 37 pin ECU extension lead so I can move my ECU, can anybody tell me the max current on any pin please (can't imagine it's much) so I can pick the correct size conductor? Ta muchly, Mick.

Sorry, Haven't explained myself very well, as Steve has said my problem is since dropping in the 4.6 my steering is so light (one figure levels of input needed with 35" tyres) and completely devoid of feel. Someone suggested that a RTC damper may help but I'm looking for any suggestions please. Steering is great for slow speed off road stuff but pants when you get to any twisty stuff on the road.

Gent's, I know I've posted this before but I don't think I got a reply & can't find the original post. Can anybody recommend a good quality return to centre steering damper please? Cheers, Mick.

Without wishing to state the obvious, fuel filter?

Yep ^^^^ As above, if you must use carbs stick with standard SU's. If not get an EFI manifold and squirt it.

Ian, Motor frame sizes (metric ones at least) are usualy dictatetd by the height to the centre line of the shaft from the base plate. I.E. a D160L motor's shaft centre line will be 160mm from the base plate. Can you estimate the shaft height from the guard or something? If you have the frame size, power rating and speed thats all you need really. HTH's, Mick. Edit: 1440 RPM is a 4 pole motor or bog standard in other words.

Great feeling isn't it! Nige is a nice guy, good job he doesn't charge by the hour though

Thanks for the Pics!

The Mrs & I would be interested (assuming Mrs are permitted if not she can stay at home ) Not doing the camping bit though!

Thanks Chaps, Can anybody recommend a decent RTC damper? Have looked on Gwyn's site but he doesn't appear to do one. More interested in quality than price. Cheers, Mick.

Gent's, Since fitting the 4.6 it's getting much hotter under the bonnet than it did with the Td5, long term this can't be good for hoses, wiring etc. I notice a lot of V8 Defenders have holes drilled in the "sides" of the bonnet, does this aid cooling or is it purely aesthetic? Thanks, Mick.

Handy piece of kit that. Any chance of posting a link to the plans / parts list? Cheers, Mick.

^^^^^^^^ As above, Sounds like something in the rear axle has called it a day.

Cheers chaps, When I said the bulk head connector was ok it was... Trouble is I was looking at the wrong fecking one! Where's the pointy had with a D on?! Pass it me and I'll go and stand in a corner!

Bit of a problem, My 2000 110 suddenly has no rear lights, rear indicators brake or reverse lights. All the front ones work fine and I have 0v at each lamp. Have checked the connectors on the bulk head and all seems ok! Any ideas chaps?

Great stuff, The kids will remeber that for the rest of their lives.

Danebrewer, Where abouts do you live? Someone may offer to nip round and give you a lift if you say where you are.

Can't help with the part numbers, Just wanted to say nice build

Getting a midwife to a home birth last winter

Bring it on Nige

Thanks Dave, Found the problem, I had an issue with the vacuum pipe to the ECU causing it to throw so much fuel in it killed the plugs. Repaired the vacuum pipe fitted new plugs and she started first time Feel a bit of a cock if I'm honest, Nige suggested plugs on Monday, didn't believe 8 plugs could die at the same time

Hi all, Bit of an odd question but after changing from Td5 to V8 my steering is now far too light and completely devoid of feel even with 35" tyres. Apart from changing to a smaller diameter wheel what are my options? Cheers, Mick.

Don't see why it needs a "paint job" Looks good to me (apart from the fact that it has 2 doors more than necessary)

Gent's, Wonder if anybody can help: Recently fitted an already squirted 4.6 into my 110 and it was starting & running ok. All of a sudden it refuses to start, problem is no spark, injectors are triggering, EDIS to coil pack wiring checks out ok as does EDIS to ECU wiring. I've replaced the ECU & EDIS modules with new ones but still nothing. After checking all the voltages on the ECU connector the only "problem" I can find is that pin 24 on the ECU should have 0V on it with the EDIS disconnected. For some reason I have 11.5 V ( battery voltage 12.5 V ) with the EDIS disconnected but still get around 5.5 V AC when the engine is cranking. Any ideas? Mick.