PaulMc
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Posts posted by PaulMc
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Hiya Andy,
I just typed in LRO 2010 Sodbury sortout and it says the Sodbury sortout has confirmed that it will be held at the LRO show in Peterborough on Sunday 12th September.
Regards,
English (Kev)
I wouldn't get too excited if the last two years are anything to go by
The 'Sodbury Sortout' on Sunday morning has been a very damp squib and nowhere near as big as the sortouts of old at Newbury.
The Newbury 4x4 & Vintage Spares Day that has stepped into the gap left by the Old Sod, is getting pretty good and is well worth a visit.
The next one is on Sunday 3rd October, details here -
http://www.newbury4x4andvintagesparesday.co.uk/
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I'm pretty sure they're not available as a kit.
The individual parts, as fitted to mid 80's - early 90's military 90/110, are -
Prices, from Rimmer Bros, inc. VAT -
MRC5314 - £36.75
RRC3815 - £9.55
300693 - £15.39
Suddenly, £70-£80 on eBay, looks like a bargain
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Hi,
I've a new 110 Hard Top that I'd like to protect the side walls from internal damage. I'd also like to mount some lugs to mount some strops to tie equipments agains the walls etc. I've been looking at alloy (3mm 5-bar) & plated steel sheet metal. Has anyone done this? What's the lightest & cheapest material to use (not wood)?
Cheers!
Cheapest and lightest is plywood
But as you don't want wood, Stockboard is probably your best option.
"Stockboard is a high quality low density polyethylene board. It is tough, durable, highly resistant to chemicals, rot proof, non toxic and chew resistant. It is also steam cleanable, non absorbent and maintenance free as it does not require painting. Its high quality texturised surface does not show scuff marks.This product has been used in a wide range of applications, including:Stable wall lining, horse box and trailer lining, horse exercisers, van and lorry lining, feeders, divisions, wall and house lining, piglet creeps and flooring, pallet separators, poultry house lining, barn egg houses, rearing houses, fattening pen divisions, gates, pig huts, farrowing pens, pig feeders, cubicle house barriers, calf pens, mangers, milking parlours, american barn divisions, deer penning, ostrich penning, pheasant rearing houses, mink boxes, sheep winter housing, rebound boards, golf range divisions, go kart barriers, ice skating rinks, tunnel packings, packaging sheets and soil retention"Available from lots of places, here's an example -
http://www.heskethsplastics.com/recycled.html
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The Starter cable is a little more difficult as the connector is a bit weired. Its C449/C203 off the Rave CD
According to RAVE, that male/female connector goes between the Starter Relay and the Engine Immobilisation ECU.
Polevolt sell a 2-way and 4-way version of that connector - Circularseal Connectors
Which uses .250" (6.3mm) tangless terminals (not standard Lucar type)
These are available separately, from Polevolt, on that page.
If C449/C203 uses the larger .305" (7.8mm) tangless terminals, you can get replacement terminals here -
CN(A) 250-312 Series (Tang-Less)
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He calls them .312", but they are the correct size - I've ordered them from him before, to use with the same type of connector as C449/C203, and others.
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I believe that the 10AS unit will work without the TD5 Engine ECU, but not the other way round -
In order to prevent hot-wiring, the TD5's ECU won't start the engine, unless it gets the OK from the 10AS.
The 10AS is also fitted to 300Tdi Defenders and they don't have an engine ECU.
In the 300Tdi, there's no Central Locking function, although this can be added -
Fitting Central Door Locking to a Defender
If you want to see his pictures fullsize, go here - http://la7dja.org/defender/pictures/
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hi guys,
the key fobs on my disco 2 are worn right through i need to put something in to press the small black button that activates the locks,i tried my local landy dealer but they can only sell me a full new key, all i need is the cover.
any ideas
cheers Ally
I've seen this on eBay -
Land Rover Discovery 2 Remote Key Fob Button Repair Pad
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Paul. Would you happen to have a diagram showing what wire goes where when i get the econoseal connector?
Thanks
Phil
Here you go -
That shows the P38 Diesel connector C0204 and the Petrol connector C0205
You have the C0204 type of connector, here's how it's wired on a P38 -
If you wire the Econoseal connector as per C0204, with reference to the P38 diagram (above) and the Defender diagram, you should be OK
The circuits should be -
- Fuel Pump Live = Pin 4
- Fuel Pump Earth = Pin 3
- Sender Live = Pin 1
- Sender Earth = Pin 2
which, on the defender translates to
- Pin 4 - White/Purple Trace
- Pin 3 - Black
- Pin 1 - Green/Black Trace
- Pin 2 - Slate(Grey)/Black Trace
Don't take my word for it, please check and make sure I've interpreted it correctly.
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- Fuel Pump Live = Pin 4
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Thats cool - i already have some of those.
I take it the new connector will go onto where the TD5 type connector is on my harness, ie the 2nd connector in my pics?
Phil
Yes, that's the one shown in RAVE as the tank connector.
I think that the other connector (the Grey one in your first picture), is for the sensor in the water filter -
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Thanks for that info Paul. Will i need a special tool / crimper to be able to terminate the wires into the new econoseal connector?
Phil
Nope, nothing too special (Econoseal connectors are also used on NAS lights)
Before I got a crimp tool more suited to small crimp terminals, I used crimpers like these to make up my NAS lamp adaptor looms, with no problems -
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First off -
The male connector half on your fuel pump looks like a 4-way AMP Econoseal -
and the mating female half -
(pics are 'clicky' and will take you to the relevant page on the Polevolt website)
Check dimensions -
As for the pictures of the connectors on your loom - which one is which?
The first one looks Sumitomo/Yazaki?
The second one is what the petrol P38 and TD5 Defender are supposed to have on the loom, these are made by AMP for BMW.
AMP won't sell them to you, you have to get them from BMW, I don't know if the shell is available, but terminals/seals on wire tails are available from BMW dealers.
Although, I don't think you need bother with all that
If the fuel pump is an AMP Econoseal, you just need to source a female connector (from Polevolt), cut off whatever connector is on your loom and replace it with the Econoseal connector.
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Well, harness arrived today. Guess what..... Fuel pump connector not even close. In fact, it doesnt even bare any resemblance to a TD5 connector...
The connector on the harness has 3 inline female slots for spades. It has 3 wires feeding it: Orange/Green, Black, and White/Green..
Im at a loss again. I was at least expecting the connector to look like the TD5 one shown above.
Can you post up a picture of the connector on your harness and the connector on the P38 Fuel Pump?
I might be able to identify the connectors.
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Land Rover don't offer Alloys at all on the 130, only 'Wolf' Rims.
Wolf Rims, at 6.5" wide, are right in the middle of BFG's recommended wheel width of 6.0" to 7.0" for 235/85R16 MTs.
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The pictures from RAVE that Ralph has posted are for the Diesel model, which (according to RAVE) has a different connector to the Petrol model.
The circuits look to be the same -
- Fuel Pump Live = Pin 1
- Fuel Pump Earth = Pin 4
- Sender Live = Pin 2
- Sender Earth = Pin 3
Although, as I said in the post above, the way the fuel gauge/low fuel light works on each vehicle appears to be different, I can't see why your P38 Tank Unit shouldn't just plug in and work with the Defender wiring.
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- Fuel Pump Live = Pin 1
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Phil,
I've only just seen your PM about AMR1494 and the link to a picture of it on X-MoD.
Once I saw the picture I realised that I've seen loads of those, new and bagged, at LR Shows/Autojumbles for little or no money.
It doesn't look as though it should be what Microcat says it is
But according to Microcat (see attachment in Wiring Harness Advice), it's fitted from VIN JA onwards (that's 200Tdi), it's also shown as being fitted to Puma Defenders, MY07 onwards
Looking at the fuel tank circuit diagram for a TD5 Defender -
The fuel tank connector is C0114 -
The wires from which, go through C0392/C0378 junction, which is on the bulkhead -
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So working from that, the tank connector must be part of the chassis harness, as C0392/C0378 is one of the junctions between the chassis harness and the main harness and the circuit diagram shows no breaks in the wires between C0114 and C0392.
Your next problem - P38 Fuel Pump/Sender
According to RAVE, the Petrol P38 uses (what looks like) the same tank connector as the TD5 Defender -
The P38 fuel tank circuit looks very similar -
Although the Defender doesn't have all those ECUs (although, an Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch might be a good idea) and has a rather simpler circuit at the Instrument end -
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Parker steel are a rip off for DIY buyers. I use their website as a start, it's great for looking up sizes etc, but the local family steel stockholder regularly beat them by 20-30%.
There's not a huge choice in the South East
There are a few Steel places around that I know of, but they only do Building Steel - RSJs, I Beams, Columns, etc...
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Another thing - is your 110 a Station Wagon or a Hardtop/Truck Cab?
The reason I ask is because most Rock Sliders are made for Station Wagons and they mount in three places -
Bulkhead - Outrigger - Body Crossmember
Hardtops/Truck Cabs dont have the rear-most crossmember, so you have to make up a crossmember to mount across the chassis to provide a rear mounting.
I've got a set of Mantec Sliders for my Hardtop, but I've got Jerrycan Lockers in the side, which means modifying the sliders by notching them or spacing them down to miss the bottoms of the Jerrycan Doors.
The Jerrycan Lockers sit on a crossmember that mounts in the same place as the Station Wagon crossmember, but it's different, so the Mantec Sliders won't fit directly to it - more modifying
I haven't got around to fitting them yet and, with the amount of modification required, I'm considering making my own from scratch.
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anyone got any pictures so i can compare 100x50 and 80x40?
Have found this place - Austen Knapman
Any other recommendations?
I've used Parker Steel before, they're based in Canterbury and they hold stock of all standard sections.
You have to buy a full length (usually 7.5m), but they will cut it to length for you and their delivery charge is quite reasonable.
You have to register to be able to see prices, but once registered you can order online, including specifying cuts, finishes, etc...
I've done a couple of screen-caps from their website, first one shows RHS available, second one shows prices for the size/thickness suitable for rock sliders -
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You're not far from me aren't you? (I'm in Horton Kirby)
Have you tried the Corus Steel Distribution Centre at Farningham Road Railway Station?
I don't know if they'll deal directly with the public, but they're local - it's worth asking.
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Thanks Paul. From your microcat, what is the part number and description of number 9 in the diagram?
It's the Fuel Tank Harness, here's the details from Microcat -
You'll need AMR1494
The Screen-Caps are from June 2010 Microcat, so the prices should be fairly current (no pun intended
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Im looking for a chassis harness for my 110. Would this fit a TD5? Its advertised as TD5 but when you put the part number into britcar or whatever, it shows it as a 300 TDi loom..
Britcar are wrong, John Craddock are right -
Good price from JC
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Hello,
Does anyone have the part numbers for the switches on the console - anyone know what otehr functions fill the blank holes?
I just want on/off buttons to wire up to different light isolation switches.
Cheers
Mav
Have a look here - http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/2002dash/part5/index.htm
and here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56046
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On the TD5 don't the earths go back to a common earth point on the bulkhead via the wing harnesses ?
Mo
Mo is correct
On the TD5, all the front lamp earths go back to a single earth header, mounted on a bolt on the bulkhead -
Everything else in the engine bay (except the starter motor) and all of the earth headers in the dash and behind the instruments also go back to this point -
C0550's mounting bolt is also used to earth the ABS Modulator (on it's own earth cable) via ring terminal C0362 -
I would run an additional earth cable (of at least 16mm2) from C0550/C0362's mounting bolt, directly back to the battery earth terminal.
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I stand by what I said in an earlier post.
The flowery language used in their advert is that of a snake oil salesman.
Simon's investigations would seem to confirm that they are overselling their product's capabilities.
Some on here accused me of being harsh on the seller, but I'm naturally cynical, especially where eBay sellers are concerned.
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A spacer either side would be preferable to a pack of washers, but a crush tube is still required - whichever you use. You would still have weak points with a spacer, but not as many as using washers. Considering the reduced strength of the TD5 chassis against the earlier models - strengthening it with plate would be a wiser choice in my opinion.
Les.
I'm not too familiar with all the changes to the TD5 chassis (except for the 'tinfoil' rear crossmember with it's thread inserts)
The page from the Military Parts Book is for 1986/87 Military models, external comparison of which, with my 1989 110's chassis revealed no great differences.
I have seen a Military chassis cut open and, although the JATE Ring holes are not tubed, the chassis does have a stiffening scroll (sort of 'S') welded between the vertical inside faces of the chassis at this point.
The spacing washers are used at the rear of the vehicle - one washer per side for each JATE Ring, to make up for the difference in chassis width between the front and the rear of the chassis rails (the front has the thickness of the jacking point, welded to each side of the chassis rail), if you need more washers than this, then your not using proper JATE Rings - RRC3237
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PaulMc has this on his website, an extract from the military 110 parts book.
http://defender110.nightmail.ru/Extracts/JATE%20Rings.jpg
it mentions spacers but doesn't show them.
It does - Spacer WC110061L QTY 4
Which are M10 Form C Washers - inside diameter M10, outside diameter 24mm, thickness 2mm
The link that you've given to my 'website' may cause problems for some
My AVS flags it up as an 'Attack Site' - although, I've never had any problems with it
(it was fine when I originally set it up, I think it may have changed hands
)Anyway, here's a clickable thumb of the page extract (hosted on PhotoBucket
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Rubber Fettish (bonnett mounted spare rubber bush)
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Can't help with the neighbours washing
The Bonnet Buffers are MRC4619 and are available singly -
* Brand New (Genuine)
* £6.49 (£7.63 inc VAT)
* Brand New (Replacement)
* £2.49 (£2.93 inc VAT)
90/110 SPARE WHEEL BONNET MOUNTING RUBBER
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