[replacing rear wash wipe switch with mom-off-mom]

I have fitted an Iron Goat dash to my Defender, and I am looking to replace the original rear wash/wipe switch with a Carling mom-off-mom switch. It is easy to wire up so that both the wash and wipe functions work, but I can't work out how to get the rear wiper to automatically park itself.

Can anyone give me an explanation of how I have to wire things up to work properly?

The page from the Defender RAVE Manual describes it with more clarity than I could -

If you read through the description while tracing it on the diagram -

all should become clear

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[wiring colors]

I asked a local vehicle electrician if he could sell me some colour coded wire recently and he said "only if it's black - all modern cars only have black wires" no wonder they have trouble tracing faults! Either that or it's the same bloke who's done your electrics.

Malcolm

Places like that don't deserve customers

There was an Auto Electrician near to where I used to live who was known locally as 'the supercilious man', he was a Lucas Agent and sold lots of useful stuff, but getting him to actually sell it to you was hard work

Sadly, he's no longer in business

I use, and can recommend, any of these online suppliers for just about anything you need for a wiring project -

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

http://www.easternbeaver.com/index.html

or this eBay shop - http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Kojaycat-Vehicle-Wiring

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[wiring colors]

Wiring diagram for your specific car attached. A rear worklight was never standard, but since it is best wired to come on even with the ignition off, "purple and something" would be logical. Radio and clock were optional add-on extras and the radio had its own harness. The towing socket came as a kit (the LR kit used LR colours, modern kits use the colours of the seven-core cable), connected behind the cover in the offside back corner of the rear tub.

Happy hunting!

TD wiring.pdf

There's a fused permanent live on a purple wire behind that rear light cover - shown as "Pick-off point of auxiliary trailer" (no. 66) on your diagram.

I used this to power my two rear worklamps.

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[Bonnet mounted spare wheel]

The complete kit is available from Land Rover as Pt. No. LRSBOSPW (formerly STC7633)

It contains all the required parts, including bonnet reinforcement brackets, all fixings, and a new one-piece bonnet prop.

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The kit is also available from most LR Parts/Accessory sellers -

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-STC7633

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/17368/LRSBOSPW-DEFENDER-BONNET-SPARE-WHEEL-KIT.html

The kit contains exactly the same parts as fitted to Military 90, 110, 127, Defenders and Wolf XD.

I fitted one to my 110's bonnet and it took me a couple of hours. Although, most of that time was waiting for the paint around the drilled holes to dry.

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[Switch blank]

May i ask for the part number of the above part. It's the blank that covers the hole where the headlamp adjuster lives on the TD5 Defender centre console.

Thanks

Mo

FBV000070PMA - £1.23 inc. VAT, from Arnold and his Brother - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FBV000070PMA

See also - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29938&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

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[TD5 Warning Ligths plugs]

I've just found another source for these connectors.

From Simtek, here - http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/www.simtekuk.co.uk/info.php?p=12&cat=129929

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[300tdi Loom Part Number Identification]

The 'yellow' one is definately an AMP Econoseal 13-way female connector.

From RAVE -

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From Polevolt -

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The other connectors also look like AMP Econoseal connectors, both from your picture and from the diagrams/pictures in my RAVE covering the 97MY 300TDi Defender -

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The standard black connectors are easy enough to get, from either Polevolt or Simtek - but the white 6-way one is going to be hard to get.

You would probably be better off replacing the white connector with a pair of new black ones, but with the male/female halves swapped around on their respective looms, so that you can't inadvertantly plug the wrong connectors together (I hope that made sense )

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[300tdi Loom Part Number Identification]

As you don't have access to the vehicle at the moment, could you identify the connectors you're looking for from the Defender Electrical Library in the appropriate edition of RAVE, which can be downloaded from here -

http://green-oval.com/

I will have a look through my RAVEs and see what I can identify (when I get back from the Sales with SWMBO )

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[New Microcat - Nov 2009]

James, you're an absolute star

Thanks very much

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[TD5 Warning Ligths plugs]

Thanks to all for the fast replay.

One LR4X4 member offer me to buy these plugs for me.

Also I will try in Devon to buy them and do not bother someone.

Enrique

Muttland

Hi Enrique,

Devon 4x4 ship worldwide, so you shouldn't have any problems there.

Also, as you're in S. America (which country?), you shouldn't have to pay UK VAT (Value Added Tax)

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[Something for the V8 boys (and girls)]

... It might take some time to pay for itself! (Quicker with a V8 and current prices though)

I filled-up my Discovery yesterday, £85.07 for 79.58 litres

Even at those prices, it's a long way to $9,995

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[TD5 Warning Ligths plugs]

There was a seller on eBay selling those two Connectors with Terminals for £9.99 - I can't seem to find him at the moment

Devon 4x4 are now selling these connectors -

Multilock 040 16 Way Plug - Part No. CON-327 - £ 3.39 (£ 2.95 ex VAT)

Multilock 040 20 Way Plug - Part No. CON-314 - £ 3.62 (£ 3.15 ex VAT)

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[A-Bar / Bull bar??? (Defender 110 CSW)]

London ?? according to your profile

In most of South London it's "very dark" all year round and the "animals" are definately roaming free

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[A-Bar / Bull bar??? (Defender 110 CSW)]

Fact is if you hit anything over a certain speed it will bend something.

I think the ARB in the cow images may have saved allot more than the engine though,

I live in a land where wild animals roam free and it is dark half the year and there are no street lights in most of the area. ARB it is for me.

The ARB has 4 bolts per chassis rail, just for kicks, to make it stronger so it will have more of a job folding in on it's self, I got welded in an extra section inside between the two chassis rails.

On my ARB Bumper, I've drilled the mountings out to take M12 H/T Bolts, both down through the chassis rails and across them.

I believe that ARB's design brief is to protect the vehicle's radiator and front end in an impact with a large animal at up to 60mph, leaving the vehicle still driveable.

Don't forget, these are designed for Australia where an accident in the back-of-beyond, if the vehicle was disabled, could mean the occupants also become casualties.

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[A-Bar / Bull bar??? (Defender 110 CSW)]

I have an ARB Winch Bumper/Bar on my 110 (see Sig. Pic.)

I wanted somewhere to mount a hefty winch (Warn M10000) and some frontal protection for me

I don't think legislation should dictate to me the protection I can afford to myself

Jaywalkers and Numptys who can't drive aren't my responsibility.

I'll do my best to avoid them, but if they can't be avoided, then I want to have the best protection possible.

I'm saving my pennies for an ARB Sahara Bar for my D2, albeit without the A-Bar (THANK YOU VERY MUCH Mr Un-Elected Eurocrat )

Here's some pictures I found on t'internet of a 110 that had hit a cow at 60mph -

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Poor Daisy seems to have pooed herself on impact

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[plugs and socket connections]

Two links I have in my favourites goes to

http://torberry.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_2&sort=20a&page=2

and to

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/GET-CONNECTED-PLUGS__W0QQ_armrsZ1

*I have no connection with either of these companies.

I would also recommend either of those.

They both sell genuine Anderson Connectors + Accessories - Handles, Covers, Waterproof Boots.

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[td5 defender bonnet wheel carriers.]

does anyone know where i can get a spare wheel carrier to go on the bonnet of my defender td5 110. ?

any help would be great

cheers

A replacement pre-TD5 bonnet is the cheapest option.

There are aftermarket mounts available, but they're expensive -

http://www.difflock....eel_mount.shtml

http://nakatanenga-t...eradhalter.html

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[clutch problem]

If the pedal is sinking to the floor and you aren't losing fluid, then the Master Cylinder seals aren't holding pressure.

What make is your new Master Cylinder - LR Genuine Parts, Delphi/Lockheed, or the dreaded Britpart?

Britpart ones have been known to be $h!te, straight from the box

You can test the Master Cylinder by clamping-off the flexible hose USING THE CORRECT TOOL and the pedal should be rock hard and not sink.

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[R380 Gearbox oil cooler unit / where to find used]

Here are the pages from the Wolf ISPL showing the Oil Cooler and it's associated Pipes, Hoses, Mountings, etc...

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Here's the page for some of the Civvy parts, from Microcat -

Your options are either - Land Rover Main Dealer, ex Military parts dealers, or eBay sellers.

John Craddock has the Oil Cooler Matrix listed.

Dunsfold has some of the parts listed.

http://www.thepart.com/ is quite good for tracking down elusive parts.

I'm selling an ESR2084 Hose on eBay at the moment -

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=200398035205

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[Rear Corner Protection]

Improving your Defender's rear corner protection is definately worthwhile. I would even go as far as to say "it's a must".

The standard, factory fit, 'Grab Handles' are useless and provide absolutely no protection.

When I bought my 110, the first thing I fitted was Military Bumperettes - RRC2970/RRC2971 on your link (although mine are the earlier Galvanised type) -

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They've saved the rear of my 110 from women careless drivers at roundabouts and junctions on several occasions and have never transmitted any damage to the rear crossmember.

Also very useful to deter or punish the 'bump parking' aficionados

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[Wolf XD Gearbox oil cooler.]

Here's the pictures I promised.

I would have posted them sooner, but I've had problems connecting to the site today

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[Wolf XD Gearbox oil cooler.]

Sorry , should have explained more fully.

I already have ESR2084. I have recently received ESR2085 from The Xmod but it is identical to ESR2084. Rather inconveniently the white label with the part number on, usually stuck around the pipe, is missing. I just wanted to find out if there is any difference so, if necessary, I can send it back.

Supplier wise, I was thinking either used or surplus stock.

Jon.

Jon,

I've got both ESR2084 and ESR2085 - the flexi bits are the same length, but the curved ridgid pipe at the Cooler Matrix end are different lengths and shapes.

It sounds as though you have another ESR2084

I can take pictures in the morning, if that's any help?

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[Longer wheel studs?]

I would recommend that you change your wheelstuds to the longer FRC7577

See these two links for details -

http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=29959

http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=34407

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[Genuine Land Rover aux lighting switches]

Are those fog lamp connectors the same as the ones for the aux switch panel in a RRC? ie for the interior light, cruise control etc...???

What age RRC?

Soft Dash or the earlier type?

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[Genuine Land Rover aux lighting switches]

FWIW. I had a customer in just the other day carrying out an install of Aux light switch into brand new Defender. I mentioned the 'nightmare' getting hold of the correct conectors but he showed me the correct connector he had just sourced 'off the shelf' from Auto Sparks the wiring loom people.

I spoke with Autosparks at Billing, they said that they can supply these connectors, but they don't have large stocks of them, which is why they aren't listed on their website.

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