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Posts posted by PaulMc
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Not much of chassis
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There are no relays in the Defender's Electric Window circuit, the switches do the switching directly.
Make sure you have the later switches, part number YUF101521LNF
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And we have illumination. my problem was i didnt have visibility of red/yellow wire. is it ok to run a splice from the ecu red/yellow wire?
Yes, that's where it should be fed from.
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The non-latching Rear Fog Lamp Switch (YUG000530LNF) earths the 'One Touch' Rear Fog Lamp ECU (YWC104430L) momentarily, the ECU then switches and holds it's ignition-switched live (which it gets via the Main Lighting Switch/Headlamp Relay) to the Red/Yellow wires to power the Rear Fog Lamps, the Instrument Pack Warning Light and the Rear Fog Lamp Switch 'tell-tale' Orange LED, until either, the Rear Fog Lamp Switch is pushed again, or the ignition-switched live is interrupted (headlights or engine turned-off)
The Pin-outs on YUG000530LNF are -
- Pin 1 - From Pin 4 of the "One-Touch" ECU (Black/Slate wire)
- Pin 2 - To Dash Illumination Header (Red/Orange wire)
- Pin 3 - Not Used
- Pin 4 - To Dash Earth Header (Black wire)
- Pin 5 - Live FROM Pin 3 of 'One-Touch' ECU (Red/Yellow wire) - for 'tell-tale' orange LED
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- Pin 1 - From Pin 4 of the "One-Touch" ECU (Black/Slate wire)
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it would be easier and probably just as cheap to fit a remote unit , google Red dot corporation , click on products, and then look in pdf aftermarket catalogue , probably back wall units . These are the manufacturer that US Mil use in Humvee, APC,s etc . I have a rooftop unit on my 110 and that handled 45C in OZ . HTSH
Red Dot are the way to go - http://www.rdac.com/products/off-the-shelf-hvac
They have a dealer in UAE -
Refrigerated Transport Systems
Mr. Farook Cooper
Alramool Rashidiya 221 1st St. Dubai,
United Arab Emirates
Phone: +971 04-2859158
Fax: +971 04-2857545
Email: aftermarket@reddotcorp.com
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are there bays for these ready in the fuse box?
No, there's no provision in the existing Fuse/Relay Boxes, all of the Genuine Accessory Driving Lamp and Auxiliary Wiring Kits use an accessory relay mounted in the battery box.
Instructions for -
STC53208 - Auxiliary Wiring Kit
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After Market I'm afraid. Vehicle wiring products used to sell a relay with an integrated fuse which I thought was a neat idea for things just like this!
Si
They still do, but they're quite expensive - 30 Amp Fused Relay R30AF - £7.25 + VAT
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/relays.php
Polevolt are a lot cheaper -
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Standard_Mini_Relays.html
Ref: 20015A - 12 volt, 30A relay with integral 15A Fuse. N/O Contacts - £5.40 Inc. VAT
Ref: 20030A - 12 volt, 30A relay with integral 30A Fuse. N/O Contacts - £5.40 Inc. VAT
I don't know about the VWP Relays, but I've used the ones from Polevolt and they're 'Ripaults' branded.
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The Defender Front Auxiliary Light Switch, YUG000540LNF, uses the Black connector shell (available from Dingocroft)
YUG000540LNF is a latching on/off switch, but it switches the earth path of a relay, not the live, like a conventional on/off switch.
You have to use the switch as designed if you want the Green back illumination and Orange tell-tale LEDs to work.
It's no great hardship to use it to switch the earth path, it just means that you have to take a wire from the accessory output side of your relay (terminal 87) back to terminal 5 on the switch to light the tell-tale Orange LED.
- Pin 1 - From the earth side of the Relay (Pin 85)
- Pin 2 - To Dash Illumination Header (or an adjacent switch)
- Pin 3 - Not Used (but connected internally to Pin 4)
- Pin 4 - To Dash Earth Header (or an adjacent switch)
- Pin 5 - Live from Accessory side of Relay (Pin 87), for 'tell-tale' orange LED
Here's my diagram of how YUG000540LNF should be wired for auxiliary lamps -
It's quite easy to modify the switch internally to be a traditional live-switching on/off switch, I can post details/pictures if you're interested.
The above info. was previously posted here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56046
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- Pin 1 - From the earth side of the Relay (Pin 85)
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FRC7577 is available from Britpart for a lot less than Genuine LR -
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=frc7577&submit.x=14&submit.y=15&submit=Search
(they were) even cheaper from Paddocks, see here -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29959
and here -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34407
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... I've heard of it being found in Freelanders and Hondas.
Isn't the Rover 600 based on some sort of Honda?
... Then you'd solder your vehicle's wires onto the wire tails you acquired.
Or, you could use the scavenged Connector Shell with new terminals crimped onto your wires.
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I think they are like rocking horse s**t. I'm pretty sure that most of us, that have done the td5 upgrade, just buy a suitable multi plug connector and use that to connect the guage and lighting loom to the dash loom.
I think it was somewhere within the 'wibbly wobbly speedo' thread this was mentioned.
HTH
As you say, info.is in the 'wibbly wobbly speedo' thread, but I'll post it here as well.
The Connector you're looking for is a Sumitomo HD Series 14-Way Female Connector
Sumitomo Part No. - 6090-0253
If you want to try and source a used connector, they can be found in -
- TD5 Defender - Main Harnesses (Main Harness to Instrument Harness - C1040)
- Freelander 1 - Main Harness (Passenger Compartment Fuse Box - C0581)
- Discovery II - RH Electric Seat Link Harness (C0772)
and, according to the Rover RAVE -
- Rover 600 (LHD & RHD - 2.0L MEMS & Diesel) - Cabin to Side Harness, LH Side (C062)
- Rover 600 (LHD & RHD - 2.0L MEMS & Diesel) - Cabin to Floor Harness, LH Side (C078)
The Female Terminals are the same as the ones used in the Hazard Warning Lights Switch -
Sumitomo 090 Female Terminals -
Part No. - 8240-4422 (for 0.5-1.25mm2 cable)
Part No. - 8240-4412 (for 0.3mm2 cable)
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- TD5 Defender - Main Harnesses (Main Harness to Instrument Harness - C1040)
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Those ERA block locks look like they are only attached to the door frame, so if a thief has a couple of minutes (depends where it's parked) he could just undo the hinge pins on the rear door and then even with the check strap on it would move over enough to get around the block lock wouldn't it? Although it will of course slow him down which may encourage him to look elsewhere.
I suppose if you added two pins to the hinge side you could make it stay captive even if the hinges were completely removed, like they add to house front doors to increase security. The pins could be as simple as two bolts and a few holes in the frame...
I'm not making myself very clear here am I? It's a monday ;-)
Well I understood you
The items you're referring to are called 'Hinge Bolts'
They can be made quite easily, or domestic items can be adapted to suit -
The method of entry that you've described, is a weakness of the Defender design
On a more positive note - have you ever tried to undo the hinges
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sorry, I thought it had been updated with the plug parts info,
have a look at PaulMc's post here
I've just updated my post in that thread, here -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=57336&view=findpost&p=585111
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Update on my previous post
The Black one -
http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Electrical_Miscellany.html#aZZPLUG01
Connector Kit for Defender Switches Ref: ZZPLUG01
Application: Defender 2001 to 2006 with the facelift dash.
Description: Connector kit for auxillary switches on centre dash.
Price: £5.50 (£6.60 Including VAT at 20%)
The White one -
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=19291&cat=288&page=1
Connector Kit For Disco2 Cruise Control Switch
Details
SKU CKD2
Price: $4.00
Also available from -
http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Electrical_Miscellany.html#aZZPLUG02
Connector Kit for Defender Switches Ref: ZZPLUG02
Application: Defender 2001 to 2006 with the facelift dash.
Description: Connector kit for auxillary switches on centre dash. This is a direct fit to the rear wiper switch YUG000350LNF, but will fit the other switches if the splines are removed with a small sharp blade such as a modelling scalpel.
Price: £5.25 (£6.30 Including VAT at 20%)
The Hazard Warning Light Switch Connector -
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/090_Connectors/090_connectors.html
10 Position 090 HM Connector
Fits wires from .5mm - 1.25mm (22 - 16 AWG).
With complete set of terminals.
10P090-HM $6.95 ea
Spare Terminals for the 10 Position 090 HM Connector
(handy if you've sourced an old connector from a scrappy)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/090_Connectors/090_connectors.html
FM090 Terminals (10 males/10 females)
Fits wires from .5mm - 1.25mm (22 - 16 AWG).
FM090 10 Sets $3.95
Also available from -
http://www.kojaycat.com/Motorcycle%20connector%2010%20way.htm
10 Way Connector (HM09010)
For wires from 0 .5mm - 1.25mm (22 - 16 AWG).
Complete White connector is supplied with both male and female tinned brass terminals.
£9.25 + VAT
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I know it's fairly common practice for fuel returns to use a submerged pipe in the tank, in order to avoid excessive fuel aeration, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the case with this one I'm afraid!
Try blowing down it and seeing if it bubbles in the tank
...or try sucking on it, to see if you get a mouthful of Diesel
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Do you mean these -
I don't remember who was selling them for Defenders, but they're ERA Block Locks -
http://www.cheaplocks.co.uk/product_detail.php?id=62
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Hi All i am currently building my own 90 i have found a td5 bulk head with wiring loom i am after the plugs that coonect the front lights up to the wings (bulk head side) also i am after engine loom plug i want to fit a 300tdi engine as well as a plug to connect to the rear lighting thanks for your help.
Phil
If there are any other connectors that you want to identify/match, then the connector number from RAVE will help us to ID them.
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PaulMc on here is a great plug/socket searcher, I bet he knows what you would need.
Cheers Ralph
James is correct, they're 14-way Sumitomo Sealed HW Series Connectors.
Jim Davies at Eastern Beaver is the only person I've found who sells a decent selection of Sumitomo Connectors to the public.
He used to say somewhere on his website, that if he doesn't list it he may be able to get it for you, but I can't find that on there now
It may still be worth emailing him though.
An option would be to replace your existing 14-way connector with an {8-way + 6-way}, or a {10-way + 4-way} - Sealed HW Series Connectors from Eastern Beaver.
You could release the terminals from your existing connectors and insert them into your new connector shells.
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Has anyone fitted one to their Disco
Any advice for this Essex Boy
Watling make Front Tow/Push Bars to fit - http://www.watling-towbars.co.uk/front_towbars.html
'Synapse' on the D2 Enthusiasts Forum has fitted one and has posted pictures and details -
http://thed2boysclub.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2441
I think that you have to sign-up to the forum to be able to read posts.
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The Filter Head already has provision for Oil Temp.and Pressure Senders.
Ralph (Western) has fitted them to his 200TDi Engine and documented/pictured what is required, have a look at his posts here -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=35958
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Hi Guys,
Sorry another electric question. What is the point of the Voltage transformer in the 200tdi? It's the crazy Lucas black box.
It seems to just be for the illumination lights for the dash, is this right? I can't see this device in the td5/300tdi wiring diagrams? Does this mean there no change in voltage?
If I fit a td5 instrument warning panel and clocks do I still need this?
Cheers,
James
That sounds like the Dim-Dip Transformer, which was used to illuminate the dipped beam at low power when sidelights only were selected and the engine was running.
This 'feature' was done using the Transformer on vehicles up to about 200Tdi and from about 300Tdi onwards it was done with a (Pink) Relay and a large Resistor under the driver's wing.
It's no longer a legal requirement and can be quite safely omitted from your rewiring project.
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As Ralph has said, they're 6-way AMP Econoseal.
If you don't want to buy a male/female set, then Polevolt sell them individually -
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html
Female
Male
Remember, the gender is denoted by the terminals, not the shell, so the connector halves you have in your picture are male.
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Anyone got a recommendation for a good (but reasonably priced) 24v charger?
I need to keep M4Mud's old hedge ornament topped up as the batteries are getting on a bit.
No personal experience of them, but based upon the experience of myself and friends who have 12V CTEK chargers, I would have a look at their professional range.
Two of the professional models are 24V chargers, another one is a dual 12/24V charger -
http://www.ctek.com/EN-GB/professional/default.aspx
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chassis numbers
in Military Forum
Posted
Here -
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