Chicken Drumstick

Interesting, looks to be about 23kg installed weight. Bit heavier than the 4500lb winches, but a lot lighter than many other bigger ones. Do you know where to buy in the UK? Google didn't seem to show any UK venders. Thanks.

Thanks, but I think that is just too heavy to have way out in front of the front wheels for such a light vehicle. If I was fitting to my 90...

Not 100% LR related. But I'd like to fit a winch to my Gen 4 Jimny. I already have a winch suitable front bumper, although the design is quite different to most Land Rover bumpers. The winch will end up being mostly enclosed by the bumper with the winch tray inside. Access is through the cutouts in the top. Which might rule out some designs I think. The Jimny also only weighs around 1100kg. So I'm thinking a 4500lb winch might do the job. Lots of people with 3rd Gen Jimny's run this size of winch with success. I like the idea that most of them are in the 13-16kg installed weight range. While a bigger/regular winch is more like 28-32kg installed weight. I think this would be much better for a vehicle the size/weight of the Jimny, On this note, I'd also only be looking at synthetic ropes. Where I'm stuck is the plethora of makes and choices. I don't really know a good make from a bad one. I like the look of the Warn Axom 55-S, although stock/availability seems to fluctuate and they are pricey. Seeming to be £823-1054 depending on where you look. Ultimately I only want the winch as a bit of insurance should I fancy trying out a lane on my own. I don't intend any sort of hard core use for it. And as much as I think the Warn would be ideal. I then see winches like these: £318 - https://www.kartt.shop/product/4500-lbs-20kn-12v-electric-winch-synthetic-rope/ £276 - https://www.winches-uk.co.uk/shop/warrior-ninja-4500lb-12v-electric-winch/ £317 - https://www.winches-uk.co.uk/shop/novawinch-nw4500-4500i-12v-electric-winch/ Anyone able to tell me why the cheaper ones won't be suitable? Or recommend what I might want to look at? Thanks.

Won't you need an R380 Stumpy gearbox? As I understand it, the stumpy was purposely designed to fit as a directly replacement for the LT-77. We have one in a Discovery 1 200Tdi (warranty replacement by main dealer back in the day). I don't understand why the stumpy would exist if you could easily swap in a regular R380 without any bother. I'd 2nd giving Ashcroft a call. It does look like you can convert a regular R380, but quite a few bits needed: https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/short-bellhousing-r380/

Thanks for the offer. I’ve actually gone down a different route in the end. But really appreciate your kindness.

See quite a lot of new Defenders round here. I have seen a couple towing and only one hard top, although it looked clean and shiny. I’d say 90-95% seem to be the lifestyle choice. On average I probably see a new Defender most times I go out. Maybe not quite 1 a day. But probably not far off.

That's very kind. Let me see what my schedule is like for collecting. 👍

I think that is straying a little OT. However, for me personally I most certainly not go for an auto with a Tdi. As it would be an old school dumb auto, so no lockup at cruising speeds and no engine braking off road. As well as a slow and dim witted kickdown. All would equal poor performance, poor mpg and lot less fun and control.

Ta. Yeah it’s an LT77.

Thanks. To be fair the engine is tweaked quite a bit. Hence the issues with slipping clutches I think. Although I don’t know the cause of the release bearing failure other than bad luck. Really hoping to not have to do this again anytime soon. First clutch came from Ashcroft, can’t recall the brand but known quality parts. Worked ok for a bit but bad clutch slip in 4th & 5th if you floored it and sometimes even 3rd. The replacement was off eBay but again should have been good bits. Clutch didn’t slip as often but was still possible. Then something failed and lost half the pedal travel, which I’m assuming is due to the completely failed release bearing. So I don’t mind going for a more suitable replacement. I’m not one for Facebook. So no idea what may have happened on there.

Anyone running a HD clutch in a 200Tdi? Been having some clutch slipping issues, changed the entire clutch a few years back, but the release bearing has failed (just pulled the engine this morning). So looking for suggestions. Have seen this: https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/clutch-kits/powerspec-tdi-200-300tdi-bundle-deal/?v=79cba1185463 Bit spendy, is there anything else worth considering? Thanks.

Someone in the U.K. was offering a 3.7 V6 conversion. Bit pricey but that engine bolts up to the Puma gearbox. Ford Modular V8 would be another option. Obviously you’d need to still fab mounts and plumb it all in. If you don’t mind replacing the gearbox then there are several other V8 Options too such as a Chevy LS1.

Wonder who this will be aimed at. If it has the supercharged V8 it must be a £100k kind of vehicle. Not exactly the type of price range most would use for off roading.

And a shorter wheelbase. You also get the revised version of ACE, think it is called dynamic stability or something. Standard on the quick ones and optional on the others. But unavailable on the D3 as far as I know. Plus you get more engine options with the RRS including the supercharged V8 and 3.6 TDV8 and generally a lot easier to find a naturally aspirated V8 too, which is rare in the D3 in the UK.

I wonder why that is though. The 1 tonne payload is quite clear and there are not very many enclosed non van vehicles that have this. I'd assume the commercial hard top Defender, commercial Land Cruiser and commercial Jimny must all be in the same camp as the Grenadier?

Do all alloy wheels have steel inserts? I've never really looked, nor noticed. I don't recall them being very obvious on the alloys I do have. As for spacers. No idea on the terrafirma ones. I have that I bought in 2002/3 that have been used loads including on large 33"Simex tyres. They use a slightly smaller steel wheel type nut. Never had a single nut come loose over many thousands of miles, off roading and trials events. I have some cheaper (eBay) spacers too which I run only on the front. Must have done a fair few thousand miles on them too now. And they take some abuse off road with wider offset rims and chunky mud terrains. Pretty sure they use something akin to a regular LR steel wheel nut. All of the spacers are alloy and again never had a single nut come loose on these (and change wheels fairly often for different events, terrain and use). And no sign of any deformation of the spacers. Apart from being dirty...

I think everyone would wholeheartedly agree. Just a real shame the TDV8 wasn't offered in the D3/4 and some of the other vehicles.

I suspect we are drifting a little OT with this. But there are times when you may want no lights. An obvious example was all Police Volvo's used to have the headlight on in day light disabled. Although not sure what they do with DRLs.... But other times I can think of, which maybe niched. But valid non the less. When over the fields at harvest. You just don't need or want lights. Preserve your night vision, its a big field and lights flying about can be distracting for the combine and tractor drivers. Likewise if just sitting in a car with the engine running, maybe waiting. So could be on a road where parked cars would have their lights off otherwise, so no increased risk of not having them on. Or maybe even when looking for wildlife, lights can be very distracting. Have also been to a drive in movie where lights are not permitted as they cause issues for others, but you need the ignition and/or engine on to use the radio to listen to the film. All I can say is. There is a dodgy by-pass junction near here. The angle you sit it and relative height to oncoming cars means headlights any many DRLs make it very difficult to judge speed and distance. I've seen a lot of close calls and there have been loads of accidents. Not all due to this for sure. But less blinding and dazzling lights in non dark situations would probably be the safer option. If the road is wet and light rain in daylight, the lights also reflect off the ground making it even harder and may obscurer vehicles behind the lead car. In these instances if everyone used sidelights I'm 100% sure it would be better. And in some cases cars would be more visible with no lights at all. At the end of the day, seeing a car 2 miles away isn't all that useful. Its the ones much closer you need to be concerned with.

Not sure I'd want that, although don't really want DRLs either tbh. There are times when you just don't want any lights on. Although having said all this, isn't this exactly how DRLs work anyway?

Personally I think that is a bad idea. Lights on in some conditions just cause dazzle to others and make it much harder for them to judge speed and distance. It was a trick used during the war, essentially hiding behind light. It is super easy to demonstrate, get a torch (not too powerful one) shine it in someones face from 5-10 feet away, then hold your hand behind the torch and ask them to tell you how many fingers you are holding up. In remote places, such as parts of Scandinavia I can see the benefit of DRL or headlights in the old Volvo sense. As you may go hours without seeing another vehicle. But in the UK that just isn't the case and from the Midlands down to the SE on almost any road you'd be lucky to 60 seconds without seeing another vehicle.

Electric seats are great. Very often need to move a seat and I find with most manual seats that I want the seat half way between two clicks! Can't say I've heard of seat motors failing. And I thought with the RRC it was more the switches (usually gummed up rather than completely failed), not the motors. I agree with auto wipers, never got on with those. Auto headlights, well it wouldn't be a deal breaker either way. But the setup in my Jimny works well, you can either have them full manual. Or so that they come on when dark, a 2nd option than does auto mainbeam too. Which works brilliantly on B roads. But less good on dual carriage ways.

Indeed a Puma is the best of the bunch in that regard. I often say to people, they may all look basically the same. But LR made quite a few changes and updates over the years. I think if I was building/modding and had a reasonable budget I’d probably go for an Ibex though.

Sadly I’m only a dreamer due to lack of funds. But the Grenadier is exactly the sort of thing I’d buy if I had the money. The new Defender is a fine vehicle in its own way. But they drive like a tall heavy estate car. Because that is essentially what they are nowadays. Nothing wrong with this. It’s what the market wanted. And modern Range Rovers drive the same. Ie being more car like. And dynamically they do handle and ride like a big car. For me I want a 4x4 to be a 4x4 and feel like it. My short list would include the Jeep Wrangler. But I’d really want a Rubicon. The engine options aren’t great in the U.K. though and there is no options list. Jeep also knobble the tow ratings on some models. I really like the Ford Bronco too. But no real opportunity to own one in the U.K. not even sure they are all that feasible to get through an IVA either. But certainly any buying prospect is much more of a challenge. The other car on my list would be the new Ford Ranger Raptor. Although sadly the EU/U.K. version is missing around 110hp over the one sold anywhere else. But that aside it looks pretty awesome. The Bronco would probably be the most civilised. The Ranger maybe the most fun. Although roof off options with the Wrangler appeal. But the Grenadier probably the easiest to live with overall and the best all rounder. I like rugged 4x4’s with real off road capability. I’m quite happy to have ECU’s and some luxury items though. And at these prices for any of them I’d expect them tbh. A traditional Defender is great. But you’d need an engine swap and do something pretty major with the axles to even get close to the others. And ultimately you’d still end up with something that leaks and rattles. Dynamically the old model would always be a pretty large backwards step. Plus buying and rebuilding with heavy modifications will consume real cash. Much harder to finance such a purchase. The new Defender is on my list too. But would be in 5th or lower place if I was given the choice. The only real thing is, being in the U.K. they are, or will become quite easily attainable. And they won’t hold their money forever. But I do wonder if I’d always wonder if I’d bought the wrong vehicle. But time will tell. It’s either wait for used prices to drop to my price range. Or swap another engine into my p38a. Which on face value does everything I really want and drives how I want. Just a little fickle and likes a drink! The Ineos Grenadier would appear to be largely the same kind of vehicle with similar abilities. Hence why I’d say it would be ideal for me. I believe my p38a was £54,000 new in 1999. Which must be well over £100k today if you account for inflation. So maybe the price of the Grenadier isn’t so bad after all.

I have a late 3.9 serp like that in my TR7, it came out of a 1996 Disco 1. It really screams, lovely engine. Have noticed it before, the earlier 3.9's just feel a bit more lazy compared to the last of the line.

Think the HP24 is stronger. But probably not a real world issue on a single vehicle. Lots run the 22. Really depends what you want. For me the manuals are a lot more fun and in theory should offer better cruising mpg. Autos tend to make the RV8 feel lazy IMO. But lots of people like autos.