Chicken Drumstick

Is this for ALRC events? As they still allow a pretty broad variety of tyres.As for the tyres, well I guess it comes down to several points and your preference upon them: -looks, does this have any bearing at all? -terrain, different tyres can work better on different surfaces -driving style, some tyres are known as diff breakers for a reason. Also if you want the ability to spin the wheels up or use the hand brake then you might find less than ultimate grip slightly more usable If it is ALRC rules then they allow a max inflated diameter of 33", although they don't specify on how this is measured. Personally I'd argue that they'd have to use the manufacturers ratings and not a tape measure. For trialling narrow tyres are often preferred as they allow more steering lock and a narrower vehicle. But then terrain type might dictate a wider tyre as a better bet. Also what sort of pressures will you be running? Popular sizes I've seen: 235/85R16 - quite narrow and fairly tall 256/75R16 - more chunky than above (look better??) and similar height 31.10.50R15 - similar overall size to the 265's 7.50's - should be narrow and fairly tall, although many recent 7.50's seem to be similar sized to the 235's 205's - limited axle clearance but can work very well on soft grass and allows maximum steering lock That said, I recently stumbled across these: http://www.tyresdirectuk.co.uk/shop/product-info.php?prodname=33x10.50R16-Silverstone-Xtreme-Tyres-&id=17279 They are a Simex Extreme trekker copy but offer in 33.10.50R16 and 33.9.50R16. They sound like the ideal ALRC trialling tyre assuming you have enough body clearance to run them.

Thing is though, it's not clear cut at all and guidelines don't mean it's actual legislation.The main point of note is the title "Radically altered". There is no definition for this, personally I'd argue that an otherwise non altered Disco but bob tailed isn't that radical at all. It reality it has had less affect on vehicle ability and safety than swapping a Series III from a hard top to a full tilt. So if it 'isn't radically altered', then none of the following conditions such as chassis welding would apply at all. You could also argue that replacing the rear cross member on a Defender is just as 'radical' in terms of the work involved, yet as a repair this would need no inspection what so ever.

Cheap wrong rate parabolics will offer up carp ride and poor articulation and wheel travel. Haystee make the best parabolics or the slightly cheaper genuine Rocky Mountains Spares ones as they are a direct copy. Not yet seen or heard of any good reports of any other make/brand of parabolics and nearly all are way too higher a spring rate for off roading a lightish Landy.

What do you think of the Maxi's?

It's been a while since buying any new 4x4 tyres. But just been browsing some prices and even remoulds seem to near to £150/tyre excluding fitting!!! When did this happen? For example I just tried Googling for info on the Recip Maxi 3D, a few posts from 2006-2009 with people saying £60/corner or £220 for a set. Looking at current prices they are £116/tyre Pretty much double the price in only a handful of years. Is this true across all the 4x4 tyre market?

I agree that I doubt you'll find a true objective comparison. By that's true of most tyres. Othe things to consider, Simex's are readily available in large sizes 33-36"+. With many remoulds you often struggle to find better than a 235/85. Also some Simex sizes can be had as crossply rather than radials. With bead lockers and super low pressures they will perform differently to a remould. This isn't to say remoulds aren't any good. I like them and have run many types/brands and will be buying more. But my Simex's (Jungle Trekker II's) have been brilliant. They've been used hard on the road for 20,000 and still have a brilliant edge and loads of life. Fairly smooth and will sit at 70-75mph fine, grip better than BFG AT's on the road and are better than any other tyre I've used so far off road. Would I buy Simex again? Sure thing.

I can agree with all that.

Did a bit of searching as I thought this might be a common topic, but didn't really find much tbh. Anyhow, most of the bigger (and smaller) Landy parts suppliers seem to be stocking and selling plastic front wing replacement panels these days. Now I've got nothing against sticking to Birmabright wings, but I'd love to hear some real world feedback on these plastic jobbies. Points of interest would be: -Who makes them? Is there only one company or lots with some to be weary of? -How do they fit? -What finish and texture are they (anyone got any pics of some installed?), are they smooth or do they feel like textured plastic? -How well do they paint and can they colour and texture match the Birmabright top wings and other panels well? -How flexible are they off road, as in are they brittle and likely to snap/crack, or are they fairly flexible willing to take a knock and shrug it off? -How strong are they? As in, do they mark and scuff with ease? Thanks.

Don't get me wrong, I know these things don't work, couldn't possible work. But that's not what I'm saying. I'm saying it's a flawed logic to assume that just because a car maker doesn't use it, then it's rubbish. For instance the stock tune/map on a Defender Td5 is total an utter pants, even compared to the fairly rubbish Disco TD5 map. Yet Land Rover still built and sold them like it on purpose. A better map, as we all know can yield a more efficient engine, more torque, more power, better drive and often better on fuel - so using your logic above why didn't they do this? Indeed, if car makers truly spent their million to build the BEST they could, then where would it leave companies like X-Eng who make better than OEM bits? Anyhow, that was all I was saying, nothing more, nothing less. Creative maybe, but not holey inaccurate

Just to make clear, I did say synthetic weave, a K&N is a cotton weave and totally different. Aircraft and heavy plant machinery tend to use synthetic weave as it out flows and out filters and out lasts paper. Something like these guys: http://www.donaldson.com/index.html

It's worth noting that boost is a measure of resistance not flow, if you are now seeing more boost without adjusting the turbo, then likely it is flowing the same but with more resistance.

Tis true, although even at such levels you'll still often find them using paper element air filters and not synthetic weave ones, despite the later out flowing, out filtering and out lasting paper elements. So maybe they still don't 'optimise' everything despite the profit margin.

Not that I'm denying what you are saying, but I'm not sure it's a truly valid argument. Manufacturers build cars to a standard dictated by cost and time to assemble (and other factors). If this standard can be met, then they won't add on extra bits even if they do offer benefits. And it can be summed up as a cost thing really. For example, if a car maker builds 200,000 cars per year and they can meet the 'standard' without such a device, then why would they spend the extra to add it? Even if the cost price plus labour to fit it was say £2-4 in total, over 200,000 units tha'ts £200,000 - £400,000 lost profit.

Can anyone tell me what colour this is, or a way of finding out what colour it is. 1989 on an F plate. Someone said it might be marine blue, but looking here: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/nonmetallic.html Marine blue is only listed to 1987. Thanks for your help.

They can fall out under full articulation, I've even seen it happen on a standard 90, although rare. Standard springs are retained at the bottom normally.

Thank you for the replies. I shall certainly look into the Tomcat springs, but they sound exactly what I'm after.

I like to compete in certain events that don't allow dislocation cones. But it doesn't mean I don't want to use the vehicle outside of such events. If that makes sense. Having browsed some American forums and ones with some Oz guys, such setups seem far more common over there. But shipping springs back is pricey.

Hello, rather hoping someone can advise me. Can anyone tell me where I can buy some long springs for a Defender? The reason for this is I won't be running a dislocating setup, instead the springs will be retained top and bottom. But I'd like to be able to run some +5" shocks and make use of the travel. Std springs would be too short for this and most aftermarket ones I've seen seem to be of a HD variety and designed to work with dislocation cones, so again are too short. The vehicle is a Tdi pickup but with a full cage and the fuel tank in the pickup bed. In terms of use. It is road legal, but it will mainly be used offroad, so I'm happy for a compromised road setup. Many thanks for your help.

A number of years ago, on I think a different forum someone was showing some pics of angled bushes for the rear trialing arms (where they attach to the chassis) and claimed they allowed more travel and less binding. No idea if it's true or not. But does anyone know anything about them? Thanks.

Hi, no more progress yet I'm afraid, just starting to gather bits I'll need. Although if I'm honest I don't expect to make much progress until after winter. Once I finish up a few more sketches I'll post them up though.

Cheers. That's exactly the kiddy. Found them on here: http://www.28x4.com/Fedima_Tyres.html No prices though, so will give them a call tomorrow.

Thanks for the offer. Really wanting 16" tyres as I have some 1 ton rims I want to run though.

looking to replace my current 235/85 16's would like something nearer to 33" tall. What options are there? I've had a look about but not seen anything much bigger. I think Grizzly Claws used to be this size, but I can't seem to find them anylonger. Not too fussed on width and would prefer a remould, but not essential. Must be an aggressive tread pattern and will be used 90% off road.

Thanks for the suggestions and I agree about making the braking rear biased would be wrong, I was thinking more "mid" biased as you have 4 axles to chose from.