SeriousIIa

The LT95 needs a 2 inch longer prop. So buy the correct one and you are done. Cheers BOwy

Jurriaan, If you bring the axle home for me, then you can leave the beer Today I've checked if it's possible to swop the stub axles and drill a hole for the ABS , but this is impossible so Now I'm on the search for the correct axle. Preferably in Holland.........

That's a possibility, only I've never swopped a salisbury diff yet and every one tells it's difficult.....?? So I'm rather looking for a axle swap which is doable ion 2 to 3 hours.....

I've got a 110 TD5 with a Salisbury rear axle but the differential is broken. Now I've bought an other Salisbury rear axle but mistakenly not from a TD5 but from a 300TDI so it hasn't got the ABS holes in it. Is it possible to make the sensors fit? Or do I have to look out for an other axle (I hope not...). Regards Bowy

I would like to fit my heavy duty drive flanges to the front of my 110. It has a salisbury front axle. The problem is the new HD flanges are tight fit and when I 'tap' them on the halfshaft/cv slides in which makes it impossible to mount the circlip. I would like to pull it out then but can't get a grip on the half shaft. Does anyone know shich thread is inside the middle? So i can fit a bolt to grip it. Thx! Bowy

I'll be there from tomorrow afternoon till sunday. Will drop by at the X-eng stand this time Chris Regards Bowy

For some more comparison. I would paint the rims white, looks great with the rest yellow and black My Yellow 110 My yellow SeriousIIA just painted after some use truck cabbed

Hi Chris, I should have stopped at the X Eng stand, you were standing there weren't you? Next time, probably Peterborough I will come and drop off/drink some beers! I know what you're meaning with the not really needed double shocks. I went to Dakar in charity style last year. But because my 110 is 3,5 tons and I have a driving style with a heavy right food double shocks can be handy. So that's the reason I'm checking. Bowy

I would like to fit an extra set of shocks to the rear of my 110 that's being just for trips to marocco. I would like to fit them in a V configuration (1 front and 1 rear of the axle because the brackets are already there so are the holes in the chassis. But do I need longer shocks at the rear of the axle then at the front? This because the axle moves forward when it extended. I;m asking because with a 2 inch lift and extended bumpstops standard OME's can handle the length of the suspension stroke exactly and so maybe will be a bit short at the back?

I will be attending Billing also, will be arriving thursday night and stay till sunday afternoon. Hope to find a few parts for the 110. Will bring 7 crates of dutch beer! So If you want some, you are welcome to come and drink one or more with me and my mates. For recognation purposes: This is the car I'm with. Cheers Bowy

Yes, But I've sold that one, so then I've got to source on, can't be that hard but is an option.

Thx for all the input, guess I'm &@#% then with buying a second hand quite expensive axle that is bend. Is it possible to bend it back? (i've got a 200ton press ) Bowy

I've bought a disc braked salisbury last year from a wreckyard to swop my drum bracked one on my 200tdi 110. It came from a 110 that wasa a write-off. The axled looked okay except for one of the trailing arm attachment points was torn. So I welded on a new one. Since placing it I've done 20.000 km and now my rear tires are on the inside almost worn and on the outside still 50% (BF AT 285x75x16, 2900 kg 110). Never had this problem before and now I''ve reversed the tires on the rim to get te maximum out of them. But I'm looking for the cause. Anyone ever heard of a bend salisbury? (it are not the rims, I've had these before and didn't have any problems) Or is a stubaxle bend? Is there a way to check this? Measuring is possible but then it's not possible to find out if it is a stubaxle or the whole axle.... Is there a way to bend it back in shape? (i've got a 40 ton press.... ) Any suggestions? Regards Bowy

I've had some timing belt issues last 20.000 km. The don't last much longer then 5.000. This time I was at it just in time. The problem is the belt starts wandering towards the front (timing belt cover) en is then shredded. Now I'm looking for a way to modify this. It's for a 200TDI from a disco build in a defender. I've searched and came up with this story: about lipped and non lipped crank pulleys and idler pulleys with lip. Does this also go for a 200TDI or just for the 300 TDI? Thx for the input!

Will it be supercharged? and rear steer ? with portals in that case I know, who will be the lucky owner

From what I've read they are the same. But what are early ones like?

Hi, I've just mounted a salsbury front axle to my 110. But it is a RHD, which is a bit of problem for my LHD 110. So I'm on the lookout for a LHD swivel (housing). But do I need the type with just the pin in it on the underside? Or a different one? How can identify one without taking my current one apart. thx!

Standard TDI clutch and plate won't work. We've just fitted en 2,8 lump and it is slipping in all gears....

DAve they have black door cards. Do you also havu Puma doors? Maybe we can make a swop. Regards Bowy

I've almost bought a set of new doors for my 110. Now I've got a set of push button '92 doors. I've come across a set of 2008 (newest type!) doors with the galvanized frame. I would like to fit them but replace the electric windows for reliability reasons (trip to Z-africa) in dusty conditions. Is it possible to fit my manual internals to the newer type door?

Thx for the input, it is indeed blowing heavily through the rear most pushrod hole. Will fit a new headgasket and be done with it. Do I need anything else except a head gasket and manifold gasket?

Lars, Thx for the tip, I will try that tonight and hope I won't be covered in oil

Otchie, Sadly it isn't a as simple as that. Checked that. Hope that it is a leaking gasket. Will do a compression test this week and take the head off next weekend to hopefully find out the problem.

My 200tdi has developed a seriously blowby problem. When I checked the engine oil the other day it was at it's minimum and the valve cover was well oiled, so I put some oil in (1,5 liter) and went to the store for a new valve cover gasket. After 600 km I've decided to do this job and when I looked at the engine it's was again covered in oil. So I took the fillerplug of and started it, to discover that it is heavily blowing. It still runs fine and has enough power. The block has done 220.000 km and has been fitted with a large intercooler and the pump has been tweaked with 190.000 km. Has been fine since except big black clouds of smoke on full throttle. Was using about a litre of oil in 5000 km till now. Any ideas what the problem can be? - Burned valve? - Hole in piston? - Piston rings burned/broken? - Other??

Phil take a look at the right side of the gearbox: There is the gearbox number with suffix number stamped. In this way you should be able to identify it.