SeriousIIa

Les, Can I also apply for the moderating position on the series forum. Not been posting that much latetely, but that's because I've ran out of problems on SeriousIIa . But have been lurking. I would like to contribute in a constructive way to the forum which has been excellent since it started as LR4x4. Cheers Bowy who would love to be the first dutch Mod Having toyo axles under my series doesn't exclude me I hope?'

Fitted a new filter and 5W40 oil. Didn't have a problem since. Thx for the input! Cheers Bowy

Changed the oil and filter again for a genuine one, hope it will get better. Will test it in a few weeks when pulling a heavy trailer along the highway. Was the sender problem only occuring when hot? So yes? Then I will change that too before I resort to a rebuild...... Cheers Bowy

Dan, That doesnt's sound promising. Do you have a pic of the inspection plate, I don't completely understand where it is located by your description.

Hi, My oil pressure light comes on when my 200 tdi is hot (has been working on the highway) and I stop at a gasstation. When stationair the lights flickers/comes on. When I rev it a few hundred revs it goed out. When the car has cooled down a bit it stays out. I changed the oil filter but no difference. So I think the oilpump is worn? (215.000 km ) Or can it be something different? Worn crankshaft bearings? Cheers Bowy

Some series carnage........ The obvious normal diff carnage. A modified stub axle.... Not big, but interesting as it happenend on the motorway when using the kickdown, the rotor disentegrated trough the distributo cap..... An interesting half shaft breakage. (Series salisbury) Cracked chassis of the 110 after a trip to dakar. Thought it would be rusty underneath, but no rust in sight just metal fatique.... I should have a picture of torn of swivel ball somewhere but can't find it now

Steve, Haven't found a chassis nr but that problem isn't solvable. Found the axle numbers, now find a way to link them to a certain model or year.......

Hi, I've just bought a Series 1 hybrid. I think it has a shortenend RRC chassis with early RRC axles. For the dutch DVLA I have to identify this if I want a dutch license So where can I find the chassis number on a RRC. I know it can be found on the righthand side outer chassis rail between the steering bolts. But I can't find anything there. If I resemble correctly sometimes it can be on a different place, can you tell me where? And where are the numbers stamped on the axle? rear and front so I can identify those. Already found the enige number en the gearbox number (just in front of the shifting lever). Also is there a site with axle numbers so I can see which kind of axles I've got? Already found a V8 site for the engine. Thx for the help! Bowy

Hi, I've just bought a series 1 hybrid. It has RRC chassis and axles. The V8 and a cage. Will fit a winch in the near future. I would like to replace the knackered springs and dampers. I would like to archieve a 1 inch lift so my 33x12,5 tires can fit better. I'm leaning towards police spec springs front and rear. Is there anyone with experience with these springs who can tell me if they supply about one inch lift? (1400 kg vehicle) If I look at the spring calculator thy should do the trick. Any opnions. Also are they soft enough to give any offroad ability (not like Bearmach blue or so) Cheers Bowy

Thx for the tip of the full flow screw. How do I recognize the full flow screw? The heavy right foot is not the problem because even if I do use a light foot it still doesn't go anywhere higher then 20 mpg. ( doing long flat stretches of motoring with 55 mph.) And any input if it can be an injector problem?? One more possible cause is a slightly leaking exhaus manifold especially when hot and under load it is leaking a bit. Could this cause problems? (completely without silencer exhaust system) Cheers BOwy

Hi, With the rising prices of fuel I've decided I need to make my 110 200tdi, (210.000 km on the clock) a bit more fuel efficient. It's doing about 14 mpg now, I would be very happy if I could stretch this to 20 mpg or so. This all with a quite heavy foot and motoring speed of about 65 miles an hour. Or with a trailer 2500 kg trailer behind it an 55 miles an hour. (the consumption is the same) If I drive very gentle all day long I am able to do 20 mpg but then I should maintain a constant motorway speed of about 55 without a trailer. When reading all the stories on this forum about 20 to 30 mpg it got me thinking that there must be something wrong with my 110. It's currently fitted with 285x75 AT's. Has an snorkel, uprated intercooler, standard airfilter, roofrack, the pump has been altered for a bit more umph but fuel consumption has risen with that mod. The 110 has a gross weight of about 2500 kilo's It doesn't smoke with half throttle but does under full throttle. it has always done this also before modding the pump. Any hints or tips were I can look for, for more mile to the gallon..... Injectors?? Cheers Bowy

Just received a set of new tires in the favourable size 38,5x15x16. But Now I need new rims. Ordered a set of rims from outback import but they have way to much offset. I need rims that bring the tires more to the inside. Because of maxidrive portal hubs steering won't be an issue. Width is an issue because challenge type events run gates of minimum 2.20 meter and the disco is already 2.02 with 36's on 8J. Were playing in a field full of suzi sized vehicles so we need all the advantage we can get. So does anyone know of shop that sells 16x10J rims alu or steel with beadlocks? (with negative offset (if I resemble correctly) or is it positive? Thx for the input!

Steve you're right about the wheel! The price is a bit less steep but still quite expensive. Ours are also fitted with Staun beadlocks. We've just ordered a new 10J set for the new Super Swampers. Cheers Bowy

We've also fitted them to our modified disco. And they work great together with the X-eng springs. They even stay in one piece for more then one event. Standard bushes lasted about 1 weekend with 36 inch Simex and Maxidrive portals. 'Great to see they stand up so well to the abuse we throw at them!! So now the 38,5x14 SuperSwampers are on there way. Next weekend we will be competing in the Dutch National Challenge competition with our completely rebuilded disco after a heavy roll 2 weeks ago. Amazing what 4 determind guys can do in a short time! (bend chassis, cage, bumpers, rebuild engine, new body)

Pictures of the roll over

Thx for all the input. I've got anough information. Now we have to find a good body/chassis. CHeers Bowy

A sad day yesterday for our challenge team Scrap4x4. The competition disco made a backflip and has severe damage: De A-pillar is bend, cage torn from the outriggers and the chassis is bend. Now the plan is to buy a donor disco. The competition disco is a 300 TDI. Now we can obtain a 200TDI donor for the front panel work and chassis. Does anyone know what differences are in a 200 and 300tdi series chassis? And the front body work? (mountings?) Hope you can be of help. Cheers Bowy

Gewoon voor een dubbeltje op de eerste rang willen hoor ik alweer

From this: To this: To this To this: Now still work in progress. Finishing the cage and the second and third winch.

Thx Arjan! For the others, we are both part of an challenge 4x4 team: Scrap 4x4 teamsite Ofcourse Serious is the better one of the 2 competing SWB LR's

So the defender conversion it is then! Cheers Bowy

Í've got a serious problems towards my steering house. When the front wheels (35x10,5 Simex Xtreme with serious offset) are wedged in a ditch or something it sometimes gets impossible to steer correctly. I can turn the steeringwheel but the only thing that moves is the bulhead and steering box mount. I'm looking for a way to solve this problem because when competing I need the steering to be very accurate. 2 options brace the steering box mount in more ways to the chassis. Replace the whole steeringsystem by a RR/defender one. Best is probably the defender one. But how much work is involved in this? (easily doable, of better by a coil spring vehicle) Cheers Bowy This is the kind of situation I'm talking about.

We've got a Ramsey RE8000 on the rear of our challenge disco. The only problem is it is sooo slow. We would like to keep the worm gear for lowering purposes. But a bit more speed is needed. Will a XP motor fit? (I know it will fit a husy, but don't know about a Ramsey) Cheers Bowy

Will you're about quite right. A mate of mine has 37's under his DII (for over 2 years now) and does 30.000K a year with it. 3 sets of brakepads a year..... It used to be his toy but now he uses it for his daily 70 km commute and has a D1 on Maxidrive portals bobbed and everything. Cheers Bowy