Tetsu0san

Hi all I have an old B reg 110 which I am currently dropping an R380 and a 200Tdi into. As part of this conversion the gearbox is being put in further forward so it is more like the more modern 300Tdi Defenders. As the gearbox is further forward I have been advised that I will probably have to use the 300Tdi Defender front and rear props, although looking at it I think the original ones will still fit. I still have the original props from the 110 and I have also got what I believe to be the front and rear props from a 300Tdi Defender, as well as numerous Discovery front props. Whichever props I use, I want to replace the UJ's, and this is my question. Are early 110 prop UJ's likely to be a different size to more modern props? I have searched a lot on this and it's hard to find a definitive answer as most places only list Defenders from 1986 onwards, and mine is an 84/85. Early 110's can either be listed with 2002 Defenders, or can be listed as Series, and mine certainly isn't a Series. However, I may be right in thinking that the original 110 ones are probably 82mm (or whatever the equivalent imperial size would have been) and the ones in the Discovery and the 300Tdi Defender ones are 75mm. Does that sound about right? And if anyone has any part numbers, that would be great! Cheers all

If a Land Rover is left in a barn and no-one is sees it again, does it really rust?

Unfortunately I am not using anything in the standard place. It's all being made to fit...

Hi all I am at the point in my build where I need to route an air pipe from the airbox to the turbo. I have a small length of flexible pipe that looks perfect, but just not long enough. Does anyone know anywhere that I can get more, and what exactly do I ask for? Cheers

Depending on the engine (and if I understand you correctly) put a breaker bar on it, put the bar just under the chassis rails and turn the engine over. This should undo it.

Pop off the rocker cover and check everything is tightened down on the rocker shaft and check the valve clearances. Might be as simple as that.

There is always the possibility that this vehicle is actually legit, or at least was put together before they really started to come down hard on this sort of thing and it might be a good purchase. I certainly looks like the modification has been well done to me, and it looks rough enough to have been done a long time ago.

Perfect! They don't have a diaphragm like the LT77 bulkhead with the tunnel attaching straight to the bulkhead. Now it all makes sense! Cheers

Hi all Can anyone take a picture of a 300Tdi/TD5 bulkhead where the transmission tunnel attaches to it? I need to modify mine and I just want to see how different it is to an LT77 bulkhead and tunnel arrangement. I already have the 300Tdi tunnel. Cheers

There is a difference to selling on ebay and selling at a jumble in my opinion. But when selling in a field it is much the same as a car boot, where no-one expects to give or receive a receipt. But the sort of things that an individual sells at a jumble may be different to what a trader will sell. When a trader has 10's of doors, a few bulkheads, 100's of knobs and props etc and a 'normal bloke' has a few headlights, a prop or 2, a door etc then there is a difference there too. If a 'normal bloke' turns up with a TDCI bulkhead and some immaculate doors, that is when I would be wondering where the source of these items come from. But there may be a legitimate reason for these items. You just never know.

I am not a business and I accumulate stuff (like I bet most of you do) and I like to have a clear out every now and again. Personally, I would not like to give a receipt for everything I sell as there is a bit of a double edged sword here. On the one side the buyer feels that they have bought a legitimate item from a legitimate seller, but on the other side they then may/will expect that this item has some sort of warranty or guarantee. From the 'bloke clearing out his garage' (me ) point of view, he just wants shot of his items and to make a little money for his troubles. If the details given to the buyer make the buyer think that he can bring the item back because there is a problem, this will cause the seller to think twice about selling again. There isn't really a way to fix this, other than to try to evaluate if the person you are buying from is legitimate or not. But I think forcing people to give a receipt will reduce the number of legitimate sellers too, as well as discourage the thieving pikeys. As for the price rise in insurance policies, I don't think I have even insured a vehicle cheaper than a Land Rover. At £140 full comp I think you can't get a lot cheaper, even with the thefts of Land Rover's on the rise. I would say that the main reason for general price hikes in car insurance is because of the parasitic companies who keep texting me and ringing me about an accident I had 'within the last 2 years' and telling me I can claim £2846. And when quized about which accident, they can't give me details as that is 'not on my system, I will pass you through to a lawyer'. I let rip on the last company that rang me the other day, I don't know why but I was fuming (must have been a rough day at work) and told them in no uncertain terms that companies like that who try to get their lawyers to claim for stupid and ridiculous additional things (whiplash, replacement car, etc etc) on just a minor fender bender are the reason why most people can't afford to insure a car. Man, that was a little off topic. Sorry about that.

It is unusual for a 200Tdi head to crack, but you have been unlucky. However, getting another second hand head is not that expensive and could be worth a try?

Take off the top of the air filter box. If the noise seems to get louder and seems to be coming out of the air intake then I would suspect a valve clearance issue. This can be a damaged valve, clearances out of whack, the valve cap missing or the rocker shaft broken or lose. I had a knock which I thought was a bigend and it was where my rocker shaft had broken because one of the retaining bolts had worked lose. A friend had the same sound and it was a valve cap that had worn through. Worth a look anyway.

I only painted the iron bits, left the alloy. But you were right, it's a shed load easier to do when it's out of the vehicle. I found under the oil and dirt that the block was painted gold too which may have indicated it was a recon engine. It certainly went well before I took it out of the Discovery. Anyway, gaskets, oil seals, clutch, input gear etc have been replaced and now it's all ready to go in. I think I might do a build thread as this seems like a more unusual engine swap compared to the usual 200Tdi/300Tdi into Defender stuff. And I will have a few bits to get rid of at the end too!

AHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! Now I get it! There was an information overload there for a while. Now everything is clear! The block is bright red now! Didn't get any yellow as my Dad has some left over from an old Thames Trader rebuild he did a little while back. Like Father, like Son...

The R380 bolts straight onto the flywheel housing with no modifications at all. The 4 longer bolts that go through the flywheel housing into the ladder chassis line up and I don't have to make any modifications at all. Am I missing something or just lucky?

Going to have a look at the bellhousing later, but can I not just put the LT77 bellhousing straight onto the R380? That way I have all the functionality of the R380 with none of the messing around with making new holes etc? And then in theory I would be able to remove the ladder chassis (if I needed to) without removing the gearbox.

Ah, I hadn't checked that. I only mated the two together without bolts. Cheers for that

I don't think I will need to do anything like you have because the R380 having a longer bellhousing will move the engine forward, and the crossmember will bring it forward even more. From what I can see I will either have to cut the seatbox to accommodate the gearbox or just get a 300Tdi/TD5 seatbox instead. But the pipework should not cause a problem as the engine is away from the bulkhead. As for the flywheel housing, I don't think I do have these allen bolts. But this has just been removed from my Discovery and it didn't leak in that. Where do these allen bolts go?

I thought about painting it too. Clean it up, degrease it and make it look nice and pretty. Paint it yellow to match the body colour!

I am replacing a transit engine in the 110 and I am going to be putting in new engine mounts anyway. I am hopefully fitting a Discovery gearbox crossmember too to bring the gearbox a little further forwards as well, so eventually the whole thing *should* fit in more or less the Defender 300Tdi position. The engine was out of my Discovery so I know most of it is pretty much OK. The R380 mates to it without any issues, so I suspect that either the engine or the gearbox has been modified in some way before I got them. Didn't think about the slave cylinder, that is a good point. How about the gearbox output shaft oil seal?

Hi all I am in the process of putting a Discovery 200Tdi into my 110 with a Defender R380 and a Discovery LT230. These are currently all separated and I am trying to do as much to them while they are out of the vehicle, without going completely overboard. I have done/am doing the following: Engine Cam belt Rocker gasket Front crankshaft oil seal Head gasket Rear crankshaft oil seal Flywheel to block seal Core plugs on the rear of the engine (just in case) New clutch Serviced Manifold to turbo gasket (replaced studs too, one snapped off, then all snapped off!) R380 Welded a plate to the clutch fork (make it a heavy duty fork)LT230 Replace the bearings on the input gear (I have a new gear coming, but not sure if it is the right one ) Intermediate shaft 'O' ring The gearbox and transfer box will get an oil change when in the vehicle. So is there anything that you could advise that I should do while it's all out of the vehicle and easy to get to? Cheers

Oil on the engine could be a leaky rocker gasket, but with the other things you are saying then it may be a head gasket problem. Is the water system presssurising? Is there not visible signs of water leak at all? To be losing that amount of water I would expect you would see something. Try putting some talc around the pipework and the header tank to see if you can see any streaks in it after a run. Bet thing will be to remove the head and have a look. I am not sure about the gasket fitting though, but I thought these engines were heavily based on the 300Tdi so I would imagine it will fit.

I took the top off the quadrant bit and noticed that the little grub screw was almost out! So fitted that back in with thread lock and tested all gears as best as I could while rotating the input shaft. All looks good!!

I can't offer any advice but this is exactly the conversion that I am planning on doing to mine with either an LT77 or an R380 and a 200Tdi from a Discovery, or possibly the same engine with a Defender R380. Changing the linkage if I use the Discovery gearboxes is the key for me as I don't want to cut the seatbox and lose the cubby box and I too don't want to mess about with an S shaped downpipe if I use the existing gearbox. It seems that having the 200Tdi further forward will help with pipework, access etc. Someone said that if you use a Discovery R380 with the Discovery cross member it will move the transfer box about 2" forward so you will need different props, but the LT77 route negate this. I have an LT77 and an R380 from a Discovery, and an R380 from a Defender and various cross members available so I will be doing some measuring later today. From what I can see in my engine bay I think that maybe the upright airbox in the front N/S corner might be an issue, depending on how far forward the engine is, but until I get that far I just don't know.