Tetsu0san

Hi all I have a mounting bracket and pulley tensioner from an air con setup from a 300Tdi which had been used to run a second alternator. I want to do the same thing on a 200Tdi but I can't see any easy route in doing this. Has anyone out there done this and could share any pictures? Many thanks.

Stick 'em up?

I had one, looked lovely and I didn't mind the plastic pipework too much, but the thing was about 5mm too high one end and at least 15mm too high the other end so it won't even fit. Sent it back and got a Bearmach one. All metal and fitted fine. Without going on and on and on about the quality of Britpart, I just don't bother with their stuff any more. And if I am ordering something and I get a sniff of the word Britpart I will either specifically ask for other makes or go elsewhere.

Nice idea. Better to learn the shortcuts and tricks from someone who has done something before rather than just fumbling along by yourself... Got any other takers yet?

Sounds interesting, and a good way to meet people with Landy's. What sort of work are you thinking can be done in that time? Oh, and time and other things considered I would like to get involved (if possible).

There are bad experiences and good experiences with Britpart and of course you are only really going to hear about the bad ones, but the bad ones just keep coming thick and fast. There never really seem to be bad stories told about any of the other 3rd party suppliers. There must be a reason for that. But you soon learn that the cost of parts can be representative of the quality and with Britpart you pay your money and take your chance, as you do with the other makes but the little blue box seems to still be at the top of the list of parts that just don't make the cut. Their 'G' stuff seems to be OK but I don't think they make it themselves. G meaning OEM meaning better quality. But in my experience the non 'G' stuff only has a pretty box that you can put the parts back in to throw away. I have bought Britpart stuff in the past and I would say that 90% of it is just a waste of time and money. The 10% is just OK, as OK means that it does the job and hasn't broken. But it was a good point made about the brakes being on while checking the movement. Never thought of that one.

Britpart boxes seem to be OK too...

I suppose the only good thing about Britpart is that you learn how stuff comes apart so when you have to do it again the job doesn't take as long...

So it sounds like I just have to inform them that I no longer have the vehicle and I presume that the bits that are left can just be weighed in. That makes it a whole lot simpler than I though. Thanks for that

So it sounds like it depends on speaking to the right person at the right time. Speak to the wrong person at the wrong time and you are just looking at a pile of bits to sell. It does make you wonder how legal the ones on ebay and other places actually are. Anyway, I bought the truck and it is far more rotten than I thought so I am going to scrap it anyway. Or at least I think I am...

Evening all I bought another Disco the other day which I knew needed a little bit of work to pass its MOT and I had the idea of doing this work and maybe turning it into a bobtail at the same time just for a laugh. However, I had a good look around it today and it's pretty rotten all over the place and I just can't be arsed to fix the rot. It just isn't worth it in my eyes. Anyway, I have had another thought and I have decided to break it and sell the bits. My question is what do you do with the bits that are left. As the vehicle will technically be scrapped, how do you go about getting it legally scrapped? Do you just take the remaining stuff to a scrapyard along with the log book and they do the rest, or is there something else that you can do? I remember the older log books had a scrappage section but that was quite a few years ago and it doesn't seem quite as easy nowadays (not that I have done this before anyway). Do people buy chassis and log books any more to make their own projects, or is that also being cracked down on? I was going to give the DVLA a ring on Monday but I figured this would be the best place to start as I am sure I am not the only one to have done this on here

Brtitpart. Gotta be. However, I got some aftermarket ones from James French which were fine. These were only slightly more than the sh*tpart ones and they didn't melt.

Evening all. My understanding on doing a bobtail conversion is that if you changed the chassis in any way it would require an SVA test. So basically if you were going chop the rear off the back of the chassis you would need to have an SVA test done on your vehicle. Anyway, I was browsing the fleabay tonight and a link took me to a site who will do the conversions for you and one of their pages talks about the legality of the conversion. On the page http://www.bobtail4x...on-legislation/ it states: Conversion Legislation Below is our understanding of the legislative issues if the vehicle is subject to a conversion and to also be used for road use following conversion. Because the vehicles have not had the following changes there is no requirement for a SVA (Single Vehicle Approval by VOSA / DVLA). Wheel base not altered Not changed any suspension (leaf to spring) Not changed axles Not changed transmission Not changed engine Not changed the brakes or the power of the vehicle Original vehicles identity is intact VOSA seem fairly clear with there opinions as long as no suspension (leaf to spring) or axle or braking mounts have changed then changes are classed as cosmetic. I have to draw your attention to the 'our understanding' bit. Surely that sounds like a little bit of a grey area with this conversion. Don't get me wrong, I am not having any sort of go at these people at all, I just wanted to know if my understanding of what requires an SVA is right or wrong. I am just about to purchase another Discovery project and I was thinking of bobtailing it, so I just wanted some views.

Sorry, can't resist this: "have a big folder of recipets" Is that like the old tamagochi jobbies?

Toast rack? You see? Practical as well as bright.

Is it me or does the puddle underneath look like the radiator has just dumped all its water? However, I actually like it. I don't think I have seen another bobtail done that way. Quite impressed with that. Also, is that a Range Rover headlight conversion or something? I quite like that too....

You can get a little leakage out of the rocker gasket which might be looking like it's coming out of the head bolts. Might be worth changing it? I would get some degreaser and spray it all over to clean up the engine. Then run the engine and look at where it appears to be coming from. The vacuum pumps can leak and this caused my old 300Tdi to fill up the little wells in the diff housing. But I had leaks all over the place too which didn't help. And my engine was breathing...

Seriously though, practice welding on it and if that doesn't work, break it, sell the good bits and scrap the shell. Either way you can't really loose. You should make more than your money back on the sold bits and the shell will still be worth a bit at the scrap yard. Newbury is coming up soon so you could have a stall there. People will buy anything there if it's cheap enough. I know I do...

Brilliant!

Is your engine breathing or pressurising? If you run the engine with the oil cap off is there a lot of smoke or pressure escaping? If it is then it is not always be a head gasket that causes this but could be worn bores or piston rings, worn valve seats or valve oil seals. Also remove the dip stick and see if there is any pressure coming out of there. It could also be a blocked engine breather. Take off the breather and clear in out with petrol or similar. What mileage has your engine done?

Didn't need it myself although the haynes manual (or what ever I read about how to do it) does say you need one. I think I ended up using feeler guages to help it in. User some silicon sealer for lubrification and this will help it seal when it dries off. Might be interesting to know if the later rubber ones will fit in place of the cork ones...

I replaced the rubber ones on my 300Tdi with the engine and gearbox in place. If you are careful you should be able to do it. Just take off the sump and remove the 2 bolts on the crank bearing and pull it out. But get a couple of spare seals are you are bound sure to stretch or split one on the first attempt.

Is there anything wrong with your engine apart from the head? For my mind I would replace the head and leave as it is. The 200Tdi is a pretty good engine. However, a V8 diesel would be cool....

You could do a 2" body lift instead. Then you don't have to worry about wearing UJ's, steering geometry problems and it keeps the centre of gravity lower than a suspension lift. But it is a bit of a hassle to do. Heavy duty springs will give a slight lift and will help with the weight of the winch at the front, but even with these I don't think it will clear those tyres. You could just keep the tyres a more standard size for this truck. Even with standard wheels and tyres they are pretty capable off road. I have a 2" body lif on mine and I could run tyres this size, but I am actually running 245/75 R16's.

It's only a breather and most leak anyway. As long as you can seal it enough to keep as much big stuff from getting in as possible then you will be fine.