Tetsu0san

it is going to be fuel starvation. Lift pump might be the problem but I suspect that there is a blockage as already said. Try blowing through each pipe and see if they are blocked. Even if you get a lift pump, if you don't clear the blockage (if you have one) then that may ruin the new pump too...

Smoke is a little odd with a lift pump problem in my opinion. I had one go and all it did was to drop power. It also made a noise like a chicken! The injector pump was pulling fuel through and the engine would start and run, but as soon as you needed any power the injector pump didn't have the suction to pull enough fuel through and the power would drop right off. No smoke though.

Could it be where the door is not shutting properly?

CV joint would be better in a lift situation, am I right? Why are Land Rover props UJ's anyway? Wouldn't a CV make more sense, or is it a cost thing?

Where do you get this?

I changed a head and it chucked out white smoke for a little while. The gasket was well and truly knackered with loads of pressure in the cooling system before I swapped the head out, so I presume there was water all over the place. The smoke cleared after about 10 mins and all was OK.

Could be a leaky injector or possibly low compression on one cylinder, although that is unlikely to be the case if you have fitted new rings correctly. But you may have a leak in the head gasket? Check the clearances again though as it was fine before you did them. It's probably something simple like that.

Quite possbily, but I have never had any auctions pulled because of it. I totally agree that it is annoying but the plan is to make sure that I get as much as I can from a listing. I think that the ebay rule is possibly more interested in the listings that have an entire section at the bottom which lists every alternative under the sun so if you search in title and listing you will get loads of results. Could be wrong though.

This is where I get to wear my nerdy cap!! With both listing and buying you have to think about how people will see the auction. For example, my current hobby due to my bad back is radio controlled cars. So let’s say that I am searching for a bargain, I have to remember to treat any seller as a 4 year old who can't spell. If I want to search for a remote controlled car, I expect that person to spell controlled incorrectly and so I start the search with remote and end with contr* because they can probably get the first 4 letters in the right order and the * allows the search to allow anything after the *. Also, ebay allows you to be reasonably clever with a search. As well as the * you can do an 'or' search. So if I think that someone may have listed an RC car as either remote controlled car or radio controlled car, I can do the following search - (radio,remote) contr* car. The bracket means whatever is inside can be separated with a comma and this is treated as a 'Radio OR Remote' and whatever is outside is added to this. So basically I am searching for both radio controlled car and remote controlled car. Adding an * behind the car will allow the search to include car and cars. Now (and sorry for going on) you can do multiples of each. So I want to search for anything RC that could be a car, truck or buggy. I can then do a search (radio,remote) cont* (car*,truck*,bug*). Using bug* as it could be buggy, buggie or buggies. So using this method I have saved searches for land Rover stuff, RC cars as well as other bits. But if I am selling, I want as many people to see my item as possible, so I make it as generic as possible. Like stated at the start, most people who want a fridge will search for fridge and not refrigerator. Also, if I have something that could be related to another item, like an RC car that is made by one brand but most people are interested in another brand, I will put the more popular brand into the title, maybe with a NOT in front of it. So if someone searches for the more popular brand they will also get my little not-so-popular brand in their search results. Advertising a fridge as 'BLAH BLAH fridge refrigerator' will mean that people who search for either will find it. However, another observation is that as people get more savvy with searches, the misspelled and poorly advertised auctions can also make the most money as people who know how to search will tend to go into a kind of frenzy if they think they might get a bargain due to a poorly listed item. If you saw an auction for a 99p and no reserve Landroover, you would probably take a punt. But my final note is that I would also like to appologise for adding to this thread. I have had too much time on my hands recently! Feel free to tell me to get out more.

2000 seems very low to me, and 3500 is a tad high I think. However, I doubt that either are actually under or over revving unless there is a serious slippage in the clutch or the transfer box is not a Discovery one. Could be wrong though.

Is it weeping fuel or oil? If it's oil then change the gasket and/or seal it with some silicon sealer. If it's weeping fuel then tightening or sealing it to the block will make no difference. That could be a leaky union on the in or out pipes, or even a split in the casing of the lift pump. If it is split in the casing then it's a new pump time.

Check your prop UJ's for movement. Even slight play could give you the symptoms you describe. I think yours will have the double cardon prop at the front so there are 3 UJ's to look at there. If the prop is out of balance that would cause this too, but that is a specialist job to balance one. See if looks as if something has fallen off either prop as they are weighted with metal strips that are spot welded on. You can usually tell if one has fallen off because that area will be cleaner than the rest of the prop. It is unlikely to be wheel bearings or panard rod bushes IMHO, but you never know. Do you get excessive shake if you hit a pothole? If you do that would be panard rod or wheen bearings, or even preload on the steering, but a vibration at certain speeds does not usually happen through any of these.

I bought a Britpart alloy and plastic one and the build quality was pretty shoddy. It was slightly too tall one side and way to tall the other. I complained and I got sent a metal one which fitted prefectly. However, I have no idea who it was made or branded by. This metal one was fine except I had to resolder the bottom pipe as it had come out, but apart from that it was a very good radiator. Just wish I could tell you who it was made by.

The Honda Crossroad? Anyone ever heard or seen one of these before?

In my experience, just do it up until there is no lateral movement and the wheel will rotate freely. It's more about feel that anything else. The locking nut and the washer will prevent it from all coming undone. A mate thought it was a good idea to tighten up the bearings on his MGB until they were very tight. Went about 3 miles and the bearing melted to the stub axel and it was all a bit knackered.

Leaking core plug at the back of the engine (although not a 5 minute job) ended up with a replaced head. Also, the engine out to fix the core plug had to be done twice as the pivot pin for the clutch came out of the bellhousing. Only knew this when it was all done and there was no clutch! Replacing the plastic bung in a 300Tdi thermostat housing for a brass one (a proper 5 minute job) had the plastic bung sheer off, and in cutting out the left over plastic bits a bit fell into the head. Luckily it was just inside the head, but I had to remove the thermostat housing to get to it. Radiator swap (10 minute job) lasted 2 weeks as the S**tpart radiator didn't fit and a replacement had to be found and shipped (not S**tpart). Draining the coolant to allow me to replace the water pump ended up with the bottom pipe on the radiator coming out and needing to be resoldered back in. I am sure there are more that I can't think of, and there will be more in the future. You can rely on a Land Rover...

I think the biggest problem will be if it is not 'home repairable'. If you can't undo a few nuts and bolts (of course soaking them in WD40 for a couple of days before) to get at the bit you want to get at then it will loose its market. Also, if you can't remove the body to turn it into a truck cab, or run it without the body at all, this will be a shame. Meccano may finally have to start making their own version. However, I kind of like it. But I wouldn't want to fill the back up with gravel or compost etc.

It looks like a Mini.

Sounds like a core plug. Is it a 200/300Tdi engine? Same thing happened to me. The core plug was corroded because some muppet had been running it with no antifreeze and when the system pressurised when the head cracked, it forced water out of the core plug. Not an easy job either, engine out time.

Hi all. Really stupid question coming up If having a larger intercooler is deemed to be a good way of improving performance, could you not connect two standard intercoolers together (one after the other, using pipework and a little bit of messing about) to achieve a similar performance gain? Stupid question over.

I need to do a little more investigation about the V5, but it is for sale from a dealer/breaker. So in theory he probably bought it as a breaker but is deciding to sell it as a project. And yes, it is pretty cheap.

OK, I think I will leave it. I agree that it is going to be a lot of work, but I don't want to mess about and not get a tax exempt vehicle. Oh well

I have been offered a TAX exempt Range Rover that has had a Land Rover body put on to make it a 100" coil sprung Land Rover. There is a heritage document stating its age and proving that it is TAX exempt, but there is nothing on the document about the modification and there is no V5. I know the conversion was done a long time ago, but as there is no V5 I would have to apply for a new one. As the chassis has been chopped so that there is very little overhang behind the rear wheel, would I need to make the DVLA aware and then have an SVN (or similar) test done to prove it is what it is suppose to be? Basically I want to know if I am buying what could be an ideal vehicle, or am I on a hiding to nothing. Also, there is no engine in there at the moment, but it will have a V8 engine put in. I suppose this will not have any bearing on the age, but it is another change that the DVLA would need to know. Advice welcome

Hopefully someone can confirm this, but the Abingdon 4x4 Festival has been called off this year due to the MOD wanting a higher price to allow it to happen. If this is the case, what a shame it will be. Dissapointment