Cynic-al

Thankyou very much, appreciated

ok thanks, i'll work through all the suggestions

No joy flashing it, get the message expecting " response, getting "" Not sure what that means exactly apart from its not worked! Going to order a 37pin connector tomorrow and a 12v power supply so I can power it with no sensors attached and communicate from my desktop rather than the laptop with the usb adaptor.

Thanks, I'll do a. Bit of research based on your suggestions

Think I did voltage on board but will check again, will look into flashing firmware

I think first I need to sort out why it's not talking to the pc or priming the fuel pump like it usually would. I suspect hardware rather than software at this stage, don't know what others think?

Got some projects to do in the garden and have decided a little pic would be the best way to control it but I havent used any since college. Saw the below item and thought it seemed pretty reasonable, anyone got any opinions or better alternatives? http://www.maplin.co.uk/k8048-pic-microcontroller-programmer-kit-37192

seems to crank ok and not sure why it won't talk but no harm in trying with a jump pack on too, appreciate the input

Comms is via usb converter which has been problem free upto now. Battery voltage is around 12.5v static and 10.5v to 11v when cranking at the ECU

Sequence of events; Landy starter was playing up due to solenoid so I swapped it and the car fired up fine. I hadn't run it for a while so decided to leave it running to get it warm and pump a bit of oil around. Wedged the throttle slightly with a stick to pick the revs up and turned a few things on to put a bit of a load on. Came back about 20 mins later and it had cut out. A bit unusual but turned the key to try fire it again but it wouldn't. I noticed the fuel pump wasn't running so went to look for a fault around the relay and noticed it was clicking in and out all the time. Took the relay out and tested the line from the megasquirt and sure enough it was pulsing the pump. Had a look online and it seems the pulsing is an indicator of a setting conflict. Brought the computer down, plugged it in, turned the ignition on, all the gauges on megatune looked fine and hte fuel pump didn't seem to be pulsing anymore so I decided to give it another try. After cranking for maybe 10 seconds the megasquirt lost communication with the pc and hasn't reconnected since. There is power and earth to the board and I can't see any obvious signs of dry joints or damaged components, any other tests I can do to try narrow the fault? All help appreciated

Since 2002 ish you should get a part p certificate for a new circuit which a correctly qualified electrician can issue on behalf of the building inspector or you can contact the building inspector directly who will organise the approval. That said very few electricians bother as it means extra work for them registering the work online and I've never heard of an insurance company refusing to pay if this certificate isn't available but that doesn't count for a lot. My parents recently sold their house which they had had gutted and refurbished by professionals, the buyers survey picked up on the fact that the windows, boiler and electrics hadn't had the relevant paperwork registered with the building inspector so they had to pay to get them checked and registered. It's your call As for your situation I would put a new mcb in the box, if you have space on the rcd side put it there, if not you can get mcbo's with the rcd built in, athough some say the transformers in welders can trip rcd's i haven't found it to be a problem yet...

I find its often worth changing the rad cap for what they cost too, i've had a couple of cars where these have gone.

Shouldn't standard advance be a little higher anyway? I assume an open loop LPG system? If you whenever you service the engine you need to set them up or atleast check them again. Sounds like yours needs the 'idle mixture' up a little. See http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/tuning-open-loop.html

Is the oil level correct? Needs checking with it cold but running. They can go a bit funny after an oil change but i'm no expert on them, i've never dared change mine

Got to be careful how much I promise, only want it for Land Rover parts, Don't want to be stuck to it 9-5

I have a reverse camera linked to my head unit and it drives me crazy. Basically the head unit is set to switch to the reverse camera input when it receives a signal on that line. The camera is wired to the reverse light so it powers up when you stick it in reverse and the head unit switches over. When its all up and running the time it takes to switch over when you pop it into reverse is acceptable, however i'm guessing you want the timer as if like me you go for forward gear whilst its still rolling backwards you lose the camera. However what really drives me crazy with mine is the safety warning message you get when you first turn the ignition on, it says something like 'do not allow this screen to destract you whilst driving' for about 10 seconds, in that time i've usually reversed out the spot, run a child over and am half a mile down the road. The problem with these relays is they usually need a permenant live feed which isn't in your rear cluster so it would need a live cable running. The capacitor circuit above might get around this depending how much power the camera pulls and how quick you can charge the capacitor from the rear light feed. I'm guessing your thinking of something like this http://www.polevolt....info_74205.html And I would wire it like this (which I think works - it is friday!); So you stick it in reverse, the 5 pin relay switches over connecting the camera to the 12v live feed. Pin 15 of the timer is disconnected from the live feed resetting the timer. You take it out of reverse the 5-pin relay switches back disconnecting the camera from the live feed and triggering the timer. The timer powers the camera through pin 87a (NC) until it switches on after the time limit and turns the camera off. the 5-pin relay stops the live feed going back to the reverse lights. There might be a blip in the time it takes to switch over and I think you could do a neater job with your own circuit. Something like this would do it buts its american, you can set it to start timing once the signal is removed which is ideal. http://www.smarthome.com/77419/Enforcer-Mini-Timer-Module-1-to-60-seconds/p.aspx

I'm trying to get work to buy a CNC miller or machining centre, I've just got to find a way to make it an essential item for an R&D project...

Plotted points up and down with the verniers and it was the same both ways within the tolerance I could measure with the vernier. I fiddled with the switches on the back, doesn't seem to have the dip switches, neither fixed it. Its converting correctly when you select mm and inches so I don't think its showing pulses. However I must apologise to zoltan, I spent a bit of time fiddling and found if i pressed the red star it brought up a number '384', change that to zero and enter it and hey presto, it seems to have done it! According to the manual thats the expansion compensation factor? Did a basic test with the verniers and it seemed to be about right but i will check it with the slip gauges later. Thanks all

I can't see how to clear the memory but I don't think it can be that, from reading the book all it can really do is alter the zero point depending what size tool you tell it you have, it can't compensate on length as it doesn't know which side of the tool i'm going to be cutting on? Surely if I touch the tool on the chuck, zero the display, move it in the x until I can get a 100mm slip gauge in the display should still say 100mm? Plus its only a 2-axis display, a lot of the functions seem to be intended for 3-axis units for millers?

...goes to manual to read that section...

I know a lot of you are into machining so thought I would give it a shot here. We bought a Colchester 2000 lathe at work a few years ago from a tool room auction for about £500 just for if we need to knock parts up quick. It came with a DRO which I didn't really bother with as we didn't have them when I was at college but i started prodding at buttons as I figured it would be a handy thing to have, especially as the scales on the handles are kind of worn. Problem is it doesn't read right. It seems to be consistant just inaccurate. With a 100mm slip gauge it reads around 75mm in X and Y. I managed to find a manual but it's not the easiest thing to read. Anyone got any advice for calibrating? Or guidance for the correct use. I'm not bothered about all the features it has so long as i can zero it then get an accurate reading. Manual http://www.mitutoyo....tion+Manual.pdf box Cheers

I got it from Rock Oil, Halifax. We have an account for hydraulic oil.

To add to a really old thread I decided it was time to replace the fluid in the parts washer as it had more crude oil in it than parafin and the strainer had imploded trying to draw liquid. I gave the tank a good clean and searched around for something other than parafin and ended up with Rock Oil Soluble Oil Cleaner Detergent SIII. £29.50+vat for 25 litres (which sounded cheap until I got to the end of the phone call and they totalled the 200 litres I required ). The sales person also told me it was fine in a parafin washer (if you can believe a sales person... time will tell ). Really impressed with it, with the parafin I had to spray and scrub with a brass wire brush, just spraying with this seems to have the same effect on most things. It's even stripped old paint off some stuff I've put in and the floor in the parts washer doesn't look anywhere near as rusty as it used to.

Looks like its back firing to me. I would try turning the dizzy whilst someone cranks it to delay the spark. Failing that I would take the timing cover off and check the timing is set right and the drive gear for the distributor is ok. Timing chains are very cheap I would consider changing it, I couldn't believe how slack mine was. Beyond that I guess its heads off and check the valves are shutting off. Last thing i can think of is no oil to the rockers so they're not opening the valves properly or the cam / push rods / rockers / valves are badly worn or the valve springs are broken. Do you have the air filter disconnected? This may alter your mixture a little. Also are you using the choke? There are some really good videos by a guy called university motors on you tube for setting up an SU. Best of luck

Probably why I've never seen the 18th kicking about then I did say I wasn't a professional Old coloured wire sells for silly money on ebay! I went for the 7-way as it was what I could get cheap with a metal body, the metal bodies are easier to terminate the armoured cable, the standard house type ones are made from pretty crummy plastic, if you buy a plastic one look to see if it has the right size round hole for your cable to come into. The one at my house end didn't so I put a strong terminal box below the consumer unit then just took the cable tails in. If you want to get around the regs just take your cable into a 3 pin plug and plug it in The advantage of more switches is you can split things up more, not necessary but handy to still have a working socket when your fiddling with one circuit, being able to have outside supplies on their own switch or being able to run dedicated supplies to high power devices. You know if your on the limit of your underground cable as the ground above it never freezes