Cynic-al

I'm not an electrician and haven't read 18th edition so don't take this as gospel or even good advice but things to think about; Since 2004? lots of work undertaken in a domestic property (certainly new circuits and external circuits) should be tested and issued with a certificate under the part P regs. This can be done online by a registered tradesman or if you do the work yourself you can call the building inspector from your local council who for a fee will inspect it and provide the certificate. That said all of the electricians I have spoken to personally say don't bother, now that the HIPS have gone its unlikely to cause you a problem unless you have a fire, they prove it was the electrics and they prove you did it. Lets face it, they also recommend getting your house wiring inspected every 10 years and who does that? So with that out the way I don't look at what I'm running, I look at what could be run, it's ok saying I don't weld and change a wheel at the same time but if the compressor kicks in whilst your welding or you have a mate over you could melt the cable. I've done it by leaving cable on the roll, entertaining in its own way If I were you I would put a 32amp breaker in your fuse box on the none rcd protected side (stops you having to walk back to the house if you trip it), run a 4mm (should be fine for a 20m run) underground cable (i ran mine in a duct so that I can also pull other cables through), direct from the consumer unit if you can, if it has to go through the cooker switch I would take the cooker switch off and put a blanking plate on so that it can't be used, to a consumer unit in the garage. I got a steel bodied 7 way MK 16th edition unit for a fiver off ebay, then put a 32a rcd in place of the main switch (ok on MK boxes due to contactor gap, not sure about other makes). then a 6 amp breaker for the lights and 16amps for you socket rings. I would stick with type b breakers unless you get a problem. I believe under 18th edition the house consumer units have to have atleast 2 individual rcd protected sections to get around the problem of the lights going off all over when it trips out but you can buy individual mcbs (mcbo) with the rcd built in.

Assuming there is nothing wrong with your carbs and inlet manifold i would just bolt those onto the new engine, I owuldn't go from carbs to flapper EFI if you don't like electrics. It is a very simple loom that you just plug in, I took mine out whole when I did the MS and from memory there was only one 5 pin plug under the dash but you need to add other sensors ie the flapper which means altering your inlet. However whilst the engine is out and especially if you couldn't run it before you bought it I would be tempted to inspect timing chain, oil pump, bottom end, gaskets etc. You could easily throw another couple of hundred quid at it as they are generally pretty tired.

You could underinflate your bigger tyres to keep the rolling diameter the same ...

Is it reaching pressure on the gauge (normally around 8 bar)? If not could be a faulty safety valve? They're normally set to blow above the rated pressure (8 bar?) so it should be obvious. Otherwise if it is reaching pressure its probably a fault with the switch. If its the black type with the red button on top they have an adjuster inside which may help. A clean and light oil might help too. Check the connections, it should be connected to the tank side but also have a pipe to the pump side of a none return valve which is used to unload the line so that the pump isn't starting under pressure. In cold weather mine goes stiff and won't turn on without a tap. Or just buy a replacement.

I rent a large unit (mayby 6x20m, in its past life it was one of three HGV repair bays) with 3ph and water, I admit I have to share it with lots of obsolete machinery which just leaves me with enough space for truck and trailer, however I can't complain at £0pcm Moochie moochie!

Depending how your PC is setup i've had problems using the startup folder as it runs the program every time you log in not just on the computers start up, which can be what you want or not what you want. Other ways to do it are to call it from a batch file or easier than that you can use task scheduler to run the program at start up.

From memory it pulls 4 or 5 amps.

Make sure your cable isn't near sharp edges or somewhere it can rub. I fit an isolator and stick it near the winch or somewhere easy to reach so that if your low current side or isolators stick and the winch is winding in anyone can flick it off. I wouldn't bother trying to find a fuse as it would have to be such a high rating chances are it'd melt the panel that its come into contact with before it blows anyway. I wouldn't bother with the split charge, the relay types link your batteries when the engine is running so if your winching with the engine running your flattening them both anyway. They're really intended for if your using lights, radios etc when parked with the engine off. Obviously the intelligent ones will monitor both batteries and favour the engine one if its getting low. I would stick with your standard battery and alternator and see how it goes, it comes down to how you use it. If you do find your struggling I would go for a big battery before a big alternator as the alternator isn't going to be able to keep up with the winch. I switched my alternator to a mondeo one as they're dead easy to pickup at any scrappers at 90 amps which was pretty easy.

I have a ctek, great as you can leave it on all the time and it'll keep topping the battery without over cooking it. I also have one of the clark mains 12/24v jump start types for if i need an instant boost, not as easy to use or as well made and claims to need a 25 amp supply for full chat which is basically direct into your consumer unit which limits its portability. A lot of people rate the ring chargers that have a battery reconditioning mode

I find these sorts of things to be really useful for finding electrical faults, hook it up to the battery and probe different parts of the wiring to see if they're live, neutral or just dead. That way you can test signal at the relay, feed to the relay, output from the relay etc which will tell you which way to head for the fault. You can also press a button to feed live or neutral to something, so you can power the relay to see if this triggers the fuel pump or even power the fuel pump direct. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jack-Sealey-Auto-Probe-6-24V/dp/B000RA17CS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1329222122&sr=8-5 A couple of things to watch with them, just because it shows live doesn't mean the cable / connection is upto the load thats being demanded, so you may need to test under load. You can pay more and get ones with a voltage readout. Also you have to think about what your doing when you press the button to send 12v in as it will also feed backwards and can damage stuff. Finally be careful what you power up, they have a limited current capacity.

I used to use one of those greenhouse tube heaters on the dash and a timer (about 60w) then chuck it in the garage when done. I never got round to making something more permenant and laziness stops me doing it now, which is a shame as the lump that is the 3.0 isuzu diesel won't warm up when idling, infact if you get stuck in traffic it goes cold :/

Try swapping for one of the known good leads and see if the fault follows the lead or stays with the coil pack. Probably worth swapping the spark plug with the lead to rule that out at the same time.

Mine leaks water past the filler cap but probably isn't the best example.

I'm no expert but if the mute / unmute function on the stereo / steering wheel doesn't work does it have a phone kit fitted? Either factory or aftermarket? They can mute the sound system, sometimes by sending a signal to the stereo.

I made mine by just linking loads of half inch Tee pieces as it's what I had on the shelf. Advantage is its cheap and endlessly expandable and can be altered at any time, downside is its a lot of joints with potential to leak!

I have a manual somewhere that tells you the tolerance if you don't want to get the heads skimmed

In general i've always been told composite as its a little more forgiving, however when i did mine people with experience said go for tin, so I did, been ok for about a year I asssume your going to skim the heads too?

you could load it by parking the trailer next to it and pushing it onto its side, who needs to waste time with ramps? Although you might need a wide load escort.

I've also known them be called 'saddle clamp' (full and half depending on how many bolt holes) and P-clip and are available from any hydraulic / pneumatic place for maybe 50p each?

or the fuel mike spends driving round to get the cars and parts, or the traders insurance, or the rent and electric, or the cost of the tools, still, no corp tax as they won't make a profit Still one of my favourite programs even if it does have a, how can i put it, staged feel and repeats itself more than an American show. Obviously don't expect the viewers to have any attention span. Between that or tv to commit suicide to (aka Eastenders which seems to be on about 6 hours a day) I would pick it any day. Have you seen the 90 they did, it was an old hard top converted to a 3.5 on carbs, they stuck windows in, sprayed it, change the cam, changed some of the trim and I thought it looked well. No idea what it was like underneath though. They also did a classic, if i rememebr right an LPG place refused to LPG it due to the state of the engine

i always measure mine before i take them apart, it gives you a good reference for how worn they are. Not much use to you now though With the hybrid of parts you have I would do it tight then check it with blue. If it runs ok and the contact is ok then give it a bash

mine used to do exactly that, I would have a quick look whats happening with the wide band, upon plugging one into mine I found the butterfly was sticking open so to get the idle down I had gone very lean so it would stutter on the first press of the throttle, however the rest of my map was pretty good so once it got the revs up and out of the bottom corner of the fuel table it would run ok.

You can see the inlet valve rocker on cylinder 1 through the oil filler hole, visually it lines up with the 'pipe' (for want of a better word) on the inlet manifold not the 'pipe' on the exhaust manifold. You will see it open and close before piston 1 comes to the top again. You know when piston 1 is at the top through either looking at the front timing marks and setting to zero, or if your not confident in these marks sticking a blunt object through the plug hole, you will see a point where you notice it stops coming up and a point where you notice it starts going down, you want to be inbetween the two. Then pull your dizzy cap and see if the rotor is pointing to plug lead 1. Whilst your there check your firing order is right. These things have to be done whilst turning the engine in the direction that it runs. If any of the above are wrong the rotor will be in the wrong place, as all the above is by eye your not going to be spot on but they are a forgiving engine so you should get it to go. Once you are sure the rotor is in the right place if it still won't fire but does splutter then try turning the dizzy whilst someone else cranks it. If it still won't fire but there is fuel in the cylinders (wet plugs or smell) try resetting your carb mixture, its a long time since i've used an SU but i think basic starting point is all the way in then either 1.5 or 2.5 turns out? If it still won't fire check your compression, there could be a bigger problem, i helped rebuild one with some parts off a spare engine I have a few weeks ago where the teeth had stripped off half the drive gear that drives the dizzy so it was turning but not always at the right time.

If you've had the dizzy off your timing is probably out. Have you set it so that the rotor is pointing at plug 1 lead when piston 1 is at the top after inlet valve 1 has opened and closed when turning the engine in its correct direction of rotation? Once you have done this you can fine tune the timing by rotating the dizzy, space can be pretty tight so you sometimes have to rotate the rotor one extra tooth to get the range you need. I would do all this by ear at this stage, I wouldn't bother trying to use a timing light.