Cynic-al

From memory the over run relay is the one bolted next to the resistor pack, it shuts off the injectors when you take your foot off the gas and are coasting,I can't remember what triggers it but I can look in a manual I have tomorrow night if you haven't got an answer by then.

want to reassure myself that the injectors are running ok, is there an easy way to do it? Ways I thought of so far; - colour of plug, will give an idea of working / not working - colour tune, should be able to roughly compare amount of fuel in each cylinder any other ideas?

Some manufacturers do 'offroad' (soft) spec and 'heavy duty' (hard) spec. Heavy duty springs are stiffer and can flex less but the offroad ones can be really soft as well as longer so longer shocks would take advantage of that. All comes down to the weight of the truck and what you want to do i guess. Mine has offroad springs and with 5 people and some stuff in the boot the tyres will rub the rear arches on a bumpy road

Ooooo, someone slower than me, makes me feel better They arn't bad lads are they?

ME was better than Vista. Vista says "Ah, I see you have a huge hard disk, let me fill that for you with stuff that I won't use but also won't let you remove and just to really get your goat i'm going to ask you if every click was intentional" Win 2K for ever

Ive got the one from trigger wheels (FTDI?) It was expensive but works so was worth every penny. I use vista (worst OS ever?) and had to allow a com port service before it would work which took me flippin ages to find I used to be pretty hot but technology has kinda left me and now I look around the OS thinking whats all this rubbish, stupid blobby buttons, endless questions & illogical filing. I have it basically running but need to do some refining over the next month so I can test if you like... or you can hand deliver it to KORC at the end of the month and test it yourself whilst refining my engine :D

Bet you've never thought of one of these though, and someone makes money out of selling kits!

Wow! Will the rest of the casing / drum /shafts / gears be up to it? Infact if your going to the effort of mounting the motors and making a new gearbox surely you could just remake the whole thing to your own spec? By making the drum bigger you would be giving space for more cable and increasing your line speed without having to run the gearbox faster.

Mine always feels like the autobox is taking a lot of power from the engine, anyone know if they are more responsive on a manual box? Might be cheaper than going silly on the engine. A friend of mine has a 70s RV8 which is running a genuine 330hp in a seven style kit car and that cost mega bucks

Don't megasquirt it, you'll end up with a strange urge to dunk it in water, an urge that you've never had before, the fridge & heater will keep running but the fridge light will randomly go on and off, the door won't stay shut and and everything will generally fall apart around it The smile stopped about a minute after the photo was taken when the land rover wiring became objectionable to its operating conditions.

I wanted to do this with my old block but the wife she say no

Mine has an adjustment screw for the max pressure inside the switch which you could play with, it should cut out at around 8bar. Mine has the run of the mill black box with a red on off switch that most of the home type compressors have. It also has a relief valve which lifts way before the pump is drawing enough pressure to trip the fuse so I would check thats working. I've had mine not cut back in before in the cold weather but never not cut out. You can get the switches for not a lot (£20?) so you could try a new switch, they screw onto the tank for the pressure reading but also usually have a small black pipe running to them, some sort of relief valve but don't really know what it does. This shows the switch controls http://www.ecrater.co.uk/p/8682954/air-compressor-1port-1-4-pressure-switch Found this video but can't watch it at work, might be useful?

Don't know much about your specific LPG system but they are usually designed to work independant of the cars engine management, be it factory standard or aftermarket so I would fit a 3rd lambda otherwise your going to have to try to get the MS and LPG systems to talk to each other. The only links on my open loop system were shutting off the injectors by putting a relay at their common - still the same with MS, and it monitors rpm from the coil / ignition module on the dizzy, starts on petrol then automatically switches from petrol to LPG at a given RPM, as there is no coil / dizzy anymore i just switch it manually, yet to look into getting it back to automatic, the signal at the coil seemed to jump from around 3v to 9v when the engine was running so i'm guessing the LPG controller just counted these pulses. Have a look at the wiring for the LPG and check there isn't supposed to be a link to any component that your going to pull out If you were good enough i'm sure you could have the MS box configured to do all this for you, but i'm only a beginner

You might not need it, this is me we are talking about Will see how it goes

OK thanks, will try tune it without but i have a feeling its going to need it (that or it's because i can't stop fiddling with stuff )

You'll regret admitting to that! Its still doing its job though! Is D1 instead of bridging at the pwm valve? Will any component do?

Sorry for the delay, I'm now confident the tach is to drive a tacho. The car is up and running, big thanks to Roger for putting time into helping me tune, and for pointing out that the reason I couldn't get the tables to work right is I didn't have a vac hose attached... well i'd followed the wiring diagram!!! Needs a bit more refinement to finish it off. Also have a question about if i want to run the pwm extra air valve. Looking at the board it hasn't been modified for pwm, so i need to replace Q4, remove Q20, remove R39 and stick a diode across the valve to dump any back emf? Also the valve is connected to a switched live and pin 30? Here is a pic of the board Thanks

Got it going, needs a bit more refinement but happy with progress! Big thanks to Nige & Roger, couldn't have done it without them. Only problem is it seems to have a bit more go, first outing = ;

Pm sent thanks!

Any chance I can butt in and cadge a copy of that msq?

Ok, thanks, thats really helpful

would an invertor give enough power for a compressor? What kW is the motor? If you were going to use an invertor you ight be able to get a european / american one that went straight to 110v. You need to look at the startup and running current/power of the motor & inverter, i'm not sure you will be able to get enough poke out of an inverter.

Can anyone supply one to give me a good starting point? Its MSI V3 (although i think when i ran the port checker it said 029?) in an RRC 3.9. No PWM extra air valva at the moment... one step at a time Also looking at megatune i can see how to open the msq file, and how to burn individual tables but is there an option to burn all? And by the same token is there a download all? I would like to save whats in the box before i start playing I would rather try learn it with something that runs

Thats great, thanks lambda i have 2 white which i've gone live & earth for heater, grey to ground and black to the MS i also have switch maps on pin 3, kinda obvious what it does but i'm not sure how its wired yet, live for map1 ground for map 2? then a few more wires, one to pin 4, pin 6 (both custom) and pin 30. From the diagram pin 30 isn't used on the rover v8. I'm told the board was initially built for running the coil packs direct but was later converted to edis so the tacho wire could be for this? I'm confident its capable of doing what I want as it ran an RV8 in its past life, just need to make sure i get the smoke flowing to the right places

i bought 2x 4-pin waterproof connectors, so i can fill the holes of the spare with silicone to make a waterproof bung