Cynic-al

I don't disconnect mine to charge, but a friend had no end of alarm & c/l problems when he used to disconnect his p38 battery so in the end he ran cables from another battery to the alternator so that the car was still live when he disconnected it. If a good battery is randomly going flat start by pulling fuses out and sticking your ammeter in instead, atleast it will give you an idea what certain circuits are doing when the ignition is off.

Mine fell off too, it was just under the car one day. It had been stuck on with sticky pads. There were already some holes in the plastic pumper and through the steel behind it so i just drilled the number plate and fixd it with some little m6 button heads and nyloc. Hasn't cracked or split yet. If i was riviting it i would probably use a top had type bush to stop it pulling, think I have some little brass ones somewhere if you want some. For the trailer etc I use these; They're great but some don't like them due to how easy it is to get the plate off. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Trailer-Steel-Number-Plate-Holder-Spring-Loaded-Clips-/120994443661?pt=UK_Trailers_Transporters_Parts&hash=item1c2bd4b18d

My fuel gauge has never worked, after running out once and thinking i'd run out once I've decided to try fix it. At the tank I have earth on one of the cables and nothing at the other. The sender has a resistance across it of around 85 ohms from memory. I'll get to the back of the gauge next but does anyone know how its supposed to work? Is the gauge supposed to earth through the sender? What should I see at the back of the gauge in terms of voltage? Thanks!

That drill set is good money, I paid nearly that for a set of HSS 1 - 13 in 0.5 steps. That has multiples of each... and they're a pretty colour Simon, I think the clause must be there to protect the dumb, like the ones that say 'don't dry your cat in the microwave' or 'the cruise control fitted to your camper doesn't mean you can leave the seat to make a cup of tea'. Personally I think the clause is interfearing with natural selection and should be removed on the grounds of medeling with nature and slowing the natural progression of the species.

3.2 is an imperial gauge, but I can't remember which without looking. Been thinking about doing this for a while, couldn't decide between a tube sleeve or a piece of angle welded the full length. Good to see someone else do it and save me some of the thinking time

I've bought champion parts from winch solutions and LRS offroad before now. If you can't get brushes you should be able to get a motor as they are common with other stuff I believe.

I wouldn't worry, I spent hours trying to figure out why mine wouldn't work when I first installed, I went over and over the wiring diagram but couldn't work it out, eventually someone pointed out I hadn't connected the vacuum line

So your seeing 10 degrees all the time regardless of what trim you set? Does your loom have the little pull out 'get you home' plug? If so is it in? I think pulling this cuts the line and sets a static 10degree advance. Or has this already been covered Do you have an oscilloscope or similar you can put on to check the signal is there and getting to the edis?

Don't know if i'm misunderstanding what your saying but your strobe is giving 0 advance and your megasquirt is telling you 6 degrees advance? If so surely you need to correct the software by 6 degrees to make the two match? Don't really want the engine running with no advance?

I have the paid for version of tuner studio as I just didn't like megatune even though most do - guess i'm just different If you have any specific software questions I will try help but am by no means a megasquirt expert. I have one of the USB to serial converts like trigger wheels sell. The MAP I started with was Niges 3.9 and it was good enough to turn the key and start and run the engine so I thank him for that, it saved a lot of head scratching. However it was too rich for my engine, I tried the auto tune function with the narrow band and it went even richer. (maybe I have it configured wrong or maybe they just can't do it off a narrowband?) Due to this I bought a wideband and only put it in for tuning. It does have an output that I can connect to the MS but I just use the display to map it as I never got around to connecting it. Other things I would check; - Set the idle with the bypass screw on the plenum not on software - Check your timing with a strobe matches what tuner studio tells you it should be, rather than turning the toothed wheel to correct it you can do it in the software. Mine was about 7 degrees out I still haven't got around to fitting my extra air valve but mine will start and idle from cold, if a little slower than when warm.

Well done

Make : SIP Model : Migmate 170P Gas & gasless How Long have you had it / How old is it : 5 years / unknown Typical Current Price : £650 RRP Maximum Welding Current (AMPS) : 25a - 170a Output at 60% Duty Cycle : unknown Welding Wire range in mm : 0.6mm - 0.8mm Small Large or BOTH re Wire Spools : 0.7kg - 5kg although i've only ever used the 0.7s Euro Torch (Yes / No ) : yes (but only on the Professional model) Argosheild Bottle - max Size that will fit : A disposible will fit on it, but I stand a BOC bottle next to it. Weight : 35kg, you can get wheels for it but I just carry it. What is the most typical things you weld with it - thicknesses etc : Steel & stainless car parts & general fabrication 2mm - 12mm. Ali tube 3-4mm thicnkess but not pretty! Other standard Features : Comes with cheap mask, regulator for disposibles, chipping hammer, wire brush etc. Wire feed rate changes with power setting. Good Points : You can carry it around (just) which is what I need, welded everything i've wanted to weld, it's never broken down, i've managed to get all the parts i've wanted (rollers etc) from local welding shops. You can upgrade it to work with bigger bottles and have wheels. It claims it needs a 25amp supply but i've run it off a 13amp plug and extension leads without blowing the fuse. Comes with a basic wiring diagram and parts list. Bad Points : Wire feed mechanism can be tempremental. If you over tighten the tension spring it bends the top roller out the way and looses grip. It has 6 power settings through 3off 2 position switches yet it welds regardless where you put the switches - probably makes the transformer electronics simple but doesn't make much sense to the user? On a scale of 1 to 10 1 being very unhappy with it, and 10 being "Its perfect for me" rate it : 8

You do have the european haulier issue, they come full and do work over here without buying our more expensive fuel. They are trying to address it by imposing a tax on them whilst they are using our roads, they can't do this without also imposing it on our own drivers, so they are going to cut RFL for our vehicles so we only see a negligable increase With no hold ups and if i go early enough to miss the traffic I can get from S****horpe to Frome and back in a day in our artic which uses around half a tank, so maybe 200 and a bit litres of diesel. + atleast 12 hours pay + wear and tear. A couple of months ago I got a screwdriver blade through one of the tyres which cost over £300. A local haulier will do us a full trailer for a one way trip to the same place for £280+vat. OK they'll be getting a back load but it still seems pretty tight to me. The thing you have to remember with red is it gives the guy on the ground something easy and immediate to look for.

They have the right to predict how many miles you've done since you bought the vehicle (mots etc) and reclaim the tax you haven't paid plus fine you. A haulier around here had a tank inside a tank so if the dipped him they got white but the engine got red. After a while they managed to catch him and put him in prison :/ they see it lathe same as any other corporate tax fiddle. VOSA have ratings for operators. If you get pulled and there's nothing wrong your rating gets better. The better your rating the less likely you are to get pulled. The thing that stings is if your really straight but other drivers for the same company arn't the rating gets pulled down and you get pulled more.

Our local garage sells red, they often get old ladies ranting at the attendant saying their pump is broken as their car always holds £30 and today it's only taken £15 Anyway back on topic, VOSA don't seem that concerned but revenue and customs are always there, they dip any diesel vehicle that pulls in regardless of which pump it stops at. A friend was getting a can of red for a mini digger and an officer pounced from around the corner and demanded to dip his range rover tank, he enquired what happens if he refused, simple they said, we will impound your vehicle and get the police to come and arrest you :/

I was meaning attach the removable tow bar type to the trailer rather than the car, but if you can fabricate they are worth looking at for copying ideas. The rollers (fairlead) that your planning to have on the headboard - if they are going to stay bolted to the trailer when you lift the winch off make sure the hook will pass through. A lot are too small to get the hook through. If the towing eye is well offset i think it would jump out of a 3/4 round pulley before it got high enough to lift out. If you could move it to one side it might be useful or just have it big enough to stop it coming out. My trailer bed doesn't tilt so if i'm trying to put a low car on it i reverse the tow car up a set of workshop ramps, helps with winch cable angles too

Generally people don't bother with a fuse as they are such high currents if it shorted on something it'd probably melt that before the fuse. If the wiring is coming out with the winch do you need the anderson connector? Can't you just have the jump leads and have something to wrap them around as part of the mount when your driving / taking the winch off? You can buy lift off trays that are designed to fit onto tow bars, not sure what size they do up to but it would save you work. Examples; http://www.warn.com/truck/mounting-systems/multi_mount.shtml http://www.lrsshop.co.uk/content/cor4-removable-winch-tray http://www.amazon.com/Removable-Hitch-Receiver-Winch-Portable/dp/B000RGW6FE If your rollers are staying with the trailer make sure they are big enough for the hook to pass through. I looked into a roller to guide the cable at the back of my trailer but I found most towing eyes are offset so it would either have to be very wide or movable. My trailer has a lip on the back so you can set the ramps at any centres, I was going to make one that hooked on that but never got around to it.

I did Route 66 from Chicago as far as Flagstaff a few years ago, then cut north to the canyon, round the canyon & over hoover dam to Vegas, then San Diego, LA and finally to SF. Was about 3200 miles and took us 16 days as that's all the holiday I had left :/ Absolutely loved it, a wide contrast in scenery, topography and people and you could spend a lot longer as there was loads to do and see, I would've loved to make it up to Utah and would love to spend some time trekking north in Canada. Never been to Africa so I can't really compare but I have been to bits of South America and that would be great to combine with North America. I'm told getting from one to the other is very dodgy though so that would need a bit of planning.

I've got 3 kennedy wheelie ones at work (bought from cromwell tools), can't remember the cost but the oldest must be 15 years old used daily and they've all survived and are fully functional. One of them I even used to lift into the van with a fork lift so I could take it to site and it survived my driving

I forget as it was a few years ago but it was about £700 I think. It was a special though because of where I wanted the main hoop and the rear diagonals. Best bet would be to give them a ring as just the main hoop would probably be pretty cheap. They have an ebay page too. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Protection-And-Performance-Ltd?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Mine had a little resistor pushed on one of the coil terminals to do as described above.

Agreed... Or you could try and fine fun things to do with the high pressure gas left in the cylinder before you take it back for a refill... Just to make sure your getting value.

Adams gas and hobby weld both do gas with no rental charge, look on their websites for your nearest agent. I'm switching to them when my BOC bottle runs out, now over £80 a year rental. OK the fill ups are cheaper (about half the price of no deposit suppliers) but the BOC bottles last me over 2 years. That works out at around £200 a bottle! Just check the terms with the no rental ones, most won't give you your deposit back (usually £50) if the bottle is over 2 years old. But seeing as they are half the size of my BOC that shouldn't be a problem For information; Current BOC prices for X sized argoshield universal £68.60+VAT rental PA + £13.70+VAT charge to collect or £48.85+VAT to have delivered + £31.50+VAT refill +£1.92+VAT environmental surcharge per refill Hobbyweld £50+VAT deposit and £34.99+VAT argon refill. If you return the bottle rather than replacing you lose £10 of your deposit for "administration" The hobby weld bottles are around half the size of the BOC ones.

Ebay or car shows are great for the above of your budget is tight. Look for a local engineering and welding supplies or similar, they will sell everything you need including spares. Even my local agricultural suppliers has wire, disks, gloves etc. For 1mm disks Dronco are about the best i've used but you can pay over a quid a disk. I have a £30 Chinese battery operated auto darkening mask and an ESAB 'solar powered' and there isn't that much difference as far as I can tell for the hobby welder. The ESAB is probably a little quicker to darken but i haven't gone blind yet.

Mine is a P&P cage with internal hoop. You'd only need to add the hoop. And I can have my seat all the way back with people in the back. Getting in and out the back is a squeeze though. Mainly because of the rear diagonals.