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elbekko

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Posts posted by elbekko

    Battery/Starter cable ?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    1 hour ago, smallfry said:

    I would never be able to sleep at night, knowing the hassle and expense it would give you.

    I think I'd survive it. I have a P38, remember?

    1 hour ago, smallfry said:

    I am being asked to sell it at least once a month. Best offer yet has been £4000.

    Even crusty ones seem to be going for more than that.

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

    What was the final weight in the end? I know mild is just over the £1k/tonne here but if it's an offcut paid for by another job then it's just profit. 

    I'd need to check, but I think overall around 34kg?

    The other place I got a quote from always counts full plates, and could only do S235. They quoted €1.89/kg for 3mm and €1.82/kg for 5mm plate.

    The place I ordered from now is probably so cheap because it's an offcut. Not sure how he deals with it, but I'm guessing the 3mm stuff was all from the same plate, as the price barely increased when I added the skidplate that I had forgotten to send in at first. And that price increase was for the extra bend I think :)

    • Like 1

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Order is in with the local lasering guy. The 5mm bits will be S355, the 3mm bits S235. Cradle and skidplate bent by the lasering guy, the curved plate I'll attempt to do myself. €280 ex VAT, can't complain about that.

    Now hope it fits :D

     

    • Like 4

    CAD programs

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone.

    For the bumper build I decided to stick with Fusion 360, and trying to learn the tips & tricks. It looks like it takes a bit of a different approach, but once you get that approach down it isn't too bad.
    It seems much more reliant on defining lots of planes and separate components. I'm still annoyed that you can create a lofted sheetmetal part, but it just throws errors when you try to create a flat pattern...

    I signed up for the Solidworks trial, and played around with it for a few minutes. The sketching is a million times better, as I remember it. But assemblies are just as much of a mess, really. And it was running in an online VM, so not quite the same user experience as having it locally.

    On 5/5/2023 at 8:07 AM, Ed Poore said:

    I remember discussing with the chap who was our main CAD guy (he ironically also came from Autodesk) and at the time there were things back then that Inventor had been doing for years that Solidworks still couldn't do. The one that sprung to mind was translational constraints (at least that's what I called them). For example I could model a hydraulic cylinder, model a digger using that cylinder and then directly whilst editing the model move the boom and so on with it being constrained by the hydraulic rams.

    Yeah, the joints in Fusion are powerful, but a right pain to set up (for me, anyway). It always tries to do exactly the opposite of what I want it to do, for some reason...

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    7 hours ago, geoffbeaumont said:

    Crumple zones? On a P38...?

    It has crush mounts behind the stock bumper. That's about it.

    1 hour ago, ped said:

    If i were to fab it from scratch i could inc to the main mountings for the winch to 8mm but then skeletonize much if it reducing weight but still keeping the strength

    I mostly wonder why the 8mm. Especially if there's barely any twist in the system when mounting the winch feet-forward. 5mm, especially in a U-channel, should be more than plenty strong.

    Remember: as I have it now, it'll be a 5mm U, with 3mm plate welded top and bottom of the U. I don't think it'll move.

    Hence my initial design brief: try to make it strong without just throwing heavy plate at it.

    7 hours ago, ped said:

    fair enough each to their own but why spend all the effort making something not strong enough in the first place stronger when you can start with something that is already strong and will do the job without all the extra faffing about,unless you just like faffing for the sake of it

    In that line of thinking I could just do a Nige and make everything out of 10mm plate. I'd rather "faff about" and try to find an optimal design. This is not a winch challenge truck either, the goal is mainly self recovery and maybe some marshalling-type stuff.

    I'll try and get some drawings sent out to get stuff cut out. Would be nice to get it in by Seven Sisters, but we'll see. That's not far away and I've got a lot to do...

    • Like 1

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    3 hours ago, bishbosh said:

    Ohhh it's been a long time since we had an argument about thickness of plates for winches!😁

    By the time you have made 3mm stiff enough to prevent any flex cracking your alloy winch housing you would be better off with 5 or 6mm.

    Bent 20mm round bar angled as suggested to pick up on  both chassis leg plates is definitely the way forwards.

    Talking of forwards, feet forwards will  be a more efficient use of material.

    My only reservation about the design overall is you will not be able to see the winch drum which I think is a mistake.

     

    That's a good point, it would probably be wise to put another slot in it somewhere so I can see the drum.

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    2 hours ago, steve200TDi said:

    For recovery points you could ad some round bar and bend it in a loop, then welded it to the 5mm plate down each side for maximum strength. his is what I did on my winch bumper.

    I've annotated your drawing here:

    winchbumper.png.1d57debf510e9665883ac5e015dae11e.png

    That looks pretty good. And smart to add it to the outside plates, so a double-line pull would load both plates.
    Also in line with my first thought of extending those plates out through the front plate to form a ring, but I think round bar will work and look better.

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    1 hour ago, miketomcat said:

    I don't think there's any problem with feet forward especially if that lower guard is removable giving good access to the winch.

    Mike

    Realistically the bumper will have to come off to get to the winch. But that's no huge issue, I think

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Daan said:

    I think 3 mm could work, granted a flat 3 mm plate does not do much for you, but once you give it decent returns top and bottom, you have a channel that is plenty strong. My rear winch mount is just a folded channel of 3mm with the winch bolted on top of this, feet down. Lots of holes drilled into it, around 8 kg. 

    All you need to do is to have an as direct line of force from the winch mounting points to the chassis. The rest is just hanging around it for show.

    Thanks for confirming my initial thinking. And I think with this design that line of force is about as direct as it can get.
    The 5mm cradle is probably a good tradeoff in strength vs weight, and allows me to make the rest of the bumper out of thinner material.

    Speed holes aren't the worst idea, might be worth putting some in the bottom plate to reduce weight. And would help with drainage.

    1 hour ago, Daan said:

    The bash plate, I would remove the slots, and just have some holes at the bottom for drainage. What has worked for me is to have a bit of box section on top of the bottom edge with a stay going upwards to the chassis to stop it bending in the middle. 

    Part of the radiator is behind there, and without the slots too much airflow would be blocked. The stock bumper has slots there as well, for that reason.

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

    Can you not rotate the gearbox and therefore move the freespool?

    That's what I did to get it in a good position for feet-forward. But not sure how well that'd work feet-down. The standard position it with the freespool straight up, and then it'd go straight into the body/grille. All solvable, but this way it actually comes out quite neatly just in front of the body line.

    • Like 1

    P38 winch bumper build

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    31 minutes ago, miketomcat said:

    I think V2 should work out fine. I can't see in the picture but does the winch mount have a return on top and bottom edges? Mine had a return at the front (the fairlead was bolted through it) but the back (by the radiator) didn't this is where it bent, once I welded a small (about 1") return on it never moved again.

    Mike

    That's a good idea, I could pop a piece of angle over the back.

     

    9 hours ago, landroversforever said:

    If it's any help, one of my plans if I use the ARB on the build is to convert it into a feet down mounting for the winch so I can still use my fancy fairleads. I'm not worried about making that strong enough. with ribs etc to make it behave like a much thicker piece of material. 

    I was under the impression that feet-forward would be easier to make stronger, lightly. Hence why that was my original design decision. Feet down could definitely work, but would make accessing the freespool a little bit harder, as it's popping up in a perfect spot right now.

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