-
Posts
5,158 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
39
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by elbekko
-
-
26 minutes ago, deep said:
I'll never understand why people want to be anti-Apple bigots
Because Apple is a terrible company that's been riding on the laurels of a very limited and closed ecosystem. If they had to support half the hardware and legacy software Windows does, they'd be 10x worse.
2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:Well the OS being Linux based helps immensely, there's far fewer dependencies to get things up and running, e.g. development environments.
I use a 2019 27" iMac at home which has an amazing 5K screen, the OS is lighter weight than windows IMHO and has fewer time wasting idiosyncrasies. I use a silicon Mac Air for travel, which is ~1Kg so you hardly notice it, and more than powerful enough for development work.
Since the move to Windows 10, the UI has just got horrid, massive buttons everywhere , and a general dumbing down of things.
I used to develop on Windows, but glad I moved to Mac around 2012.
It depends what you are developing of course, but I do remember significant pain making thing work on Windows, because it wasn't Linux based.
Opinions and experiences vary, I guess. Although I don't see why you use W10 "dumbing things down" as an argument, as that's been Apple's main strategy for the past decade.
Oh well, back to EVs. I've test driven two, an Audi e-Tron and a Mercedes EQC. Both were nice, was almost tempted by the EQC until I saw the price tag and realised it would be utterly useless at 50% of my usage, so no thanks. A plug-in hybrid with fairly decent range (100km) is on its way though. And that can still run on petrol for long trips and tow 3.5T.
Teslas I've never liked (except the original Roadster), they've always looked terrible inside and out, and Musk is a total idiot.
- 1
- 1
-
25 minutes ago, Arjan said:
Looks like GOOD times were had !
I also ordered a winch that evening
- 1
- 2
-
2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Excellent for a web developer, as in my case.
At the risk of straying very, very far off topic: what actually makes it better for web development in your opinion? Except that all the cool kids use it
I've been a professional developer for 10+ years, and have been developing sofware and websites for 15+ years. Always on various versions of Windows. Zero issues. On the other hand, every time I have to touch an Apple anything, it tinkles me off immensely within minutes and takes way too much effort to get it to do what I want.
- 2
-
23 minutes ago, Escape said:
Certainly very recognisable as a Classic, no?
Especially since you can spec it with stock bumpers. Too bad the wheels look comically large.
- 1
-
5 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Still in the boot too @Escape?
No, luckily
- 1
-
4 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
For a moment I thought you'd fitted some treasure from the scrapman in the form of a Hiab to Sid.....
Glad I wasn't alone
- 1
-
40 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Does this match :
Drive Motor Wire Feed Feeder Assembly for Silver Beauty by HTP | eBay
Seems like pretty generic parts if so, though granted that is in the states, there must be someone in the EU supplying them.
That looks very similar, yeah.
Finding an EU source would be nice, as even from the UK it's an expensive hassle to get stuff shipped these days
I had found stuff like this: https://valkenpower.com/losse-onderdelen-lasapparaten/draaddoorvoer-motor-voor-mg200.html
But that's very light on details.47 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:Also check your liner -it may just be worn out depending on how much use it has had.
True. Probably should replace the whole torch at some point. Or a whole new welder, but it's always a little bit too expensive to just splurge on, sadly.
How do I "check" my liner? Just cut the wire at the spool and feel if it feeds through manually smoothly? -
Hi guys,
I have an Einhell SGA 175 Turbo that I got for free off a friend years ago. It had wire feed issues, that were improved by tightening the roller spring some more. But lately the wire feed hasn't always been smooth, and I think the whole mechanism/motor is just worn out and needs to be replaced.
I can't seem to find any decent source of spare parts for this welder, so I'm wondering, will any generic wire feed motor work?
-
I've been carrying my CTek charger around when out camping. Realised that I didn't carry a blue plug though, so that was moderately useless 😛
-
8 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I think what Elbekko is meaning above is that going that north in the summer will mean longer days so more sunshine.
Indeed. I think the longer days will make up for the angle of the sun. And as Mike says, you can try to angle your panels when parked.
-
3 hours ago, Northwards said:
suppose the only other 'wrinkle' I might throw in here is that it's possible we'd do a 'Scandinavia' trip or two. Summer only, not winter. That would mean less sunshine, but maybe also more 'off grid' stops?
Scandinavia in summer has more sun, not less. Winter would be a bigger issue.
- 1
-
Replaced the lambda sensor on bank 2 as well now, and the drive home everything looked ok.
Still very strange...
-
1 hour ago, landroversforever said:
I usually take the hex key out before firing it up
Not sure what you mean Daan? The nut that takes a hex key isn't any thicker than a 'normal' one? Just imagine a normal one with two blind hexagonal holes for an 8mm key rather than the two holes.
I think Daan is confused by the custom nut in the OP.
-
Ah yeah, must be the guard. Good score then.
I do get them, grinders with a slider on the side are annoying and even a little bit dangerous to use. You always have to change your grip to operate it.
-
That right grinder looks like the spindle is a bit wonky?
-
Hi guys,
Weird things going on, as always.
Coming home from Seven Sisters with the loaded trailer, the engine started running worse and worse. Getting off the channel train, we hooked up the OBD reader, and saw Bank 1's fuel trims maxed out (long-term +25%, short-term +25%). Stopped to unplug the lambda sensor, and then at least it was only the long-term trims affecting us.
Over the past few weeks I've been trying to make sense of things. I drove for a while with the sensor unplugged and the trims reset, and that seemed fine (and I really, really didn't feel like finding out wtf had broken this time ). Plugged the sensor back in, and immediately the same problem. And seemingly worse with every restart, so I think the Motronic ECU adds the STFT to the LTFT on every shutdown or something, even though OBD says 25% is max, I'm pretty sure it's going well past that.
At startup the lambda would be switching until a few minutes into the drive, then it started trailing off towards 0v, and staying there. Bank 2 working normally.So on Friday decided to have a proper look at it. Started by tracing wiring and grounds, all good. Replaced the sensor, same thing. Ok, there must be a massive exhaust leak upstream then. Found one of the manifold gaskets with a small leak, replaced both with a slathering of exhaust paste, looks good. Drive home with the OBD tool attached, bank 1 is switching fine...
And now bank 2 does nothing. Same symptoms. Lambda is switching fine on startup, then trails off towards 0v when under load..
Very strange that it switched banks, but ok, the same problem must be on the other bank as well then? Weird, but I had a fix for bank 1, so do the same. All gaskets look fine, somehow wiggle out the manifold without taking off anything but spark plug leads, and find a few tiny cracks in the manifold. Weld those up as best I can (one ran between the tubes...), refit everything with exhaust paste and new gaskets.
Switching fine on idle, start driving home, once on the motorway... trailing back off to 0v. And switching between 0v and 0.120v. Get off the motorway at home, back to switching normally.
So, err... what? How on earth could what now can only at best be a pinhole leak in the manifold where I couldn't reach with the welder, cause that big an issue with the lambda?
All I can think of is there must be a blockage downstream in the exhaust. I don't think it's a plugged cat, as the problem switched banks. I went around with a small hammer while she was on the lift yesterday and couldn't hear anything rattling. And could an exhaust blockage that isn't bad enough to feel power loss really lead to a lambda sensor reading lean?
All help appreciated, I'm about ready for a can of petrol and some matches.
- 1
-
49 minutes ago, SPendrey said:
What am I missing here? I've three fluorescent tubes in my garage, all 55W tubes. Replacing these with LEDs which are also rated to 55W saves me nothing, actually costs me the price of the LEDs themselves. So, where is the saving coming from? Does dropping from 55 to maybe 35W really save that much??
Are they actually 55W, or 55W-equivalent? Because a 55W LED is very, very bright.
- 3
-
That looks very nice! The little bit of wonkiness even adds to it, almost looks half like a wire grille at first glance.
- 1
-
Might be better to make a cradle that bolts into the crossmember holes?
-
9 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
The operation to engage / disengage is the movement of a shaft into and out of the rear of the case, of about 20-40mm. I suppose it could be done, with appropriate bracing and support of the solenoid / actuator. It would need to operate at an appropriate speed to give the synchromesh time to operate.
Sounds to me like an ideal use case for a small pneumatic cylinder. Low pressure to not overload the synchro.
- 1
-
How difficult would it be to make the OD air or solenoid operated? Then you could put a button on the main gear lever as well.
-
I would think the inclines where you have to downshift probably have more impact on the temperature than motorway cruising. I would think it's probably worth shifting out of OD before downshifting.
The stickers are nice, but a thermocouple logger might give more insight into when and for how long it runs hot.
-
Too much preload definitely seems worse, as you run the risk of hitting the end of the lifter and maybe bending pushrods.
-
31 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Agree for early oil pump variants, not so sure on the later ones, mine seem to like 15w40, which is not hugely thinner, but widely available.
I've always ran 10W40 in mine.
EV conversions
in International Forum
Posted
It'll depend a lot on what type of 3500kg. A low flatbed with some steel beams on it is going to hit the range a lot less than a big box trailer. Same as for an ICE car, but more pronounced.
An Ibex EV will be interesting either way, because it's not really the most aerodynamic vehicle to start with.