tweetyduck

so just propped up my chassis to remove a spring and i've mad a hole. See Pic. Its not bad, its just damn annoying. At least i found a weak bit. The question of the day... will this fail an MOT ? and do i just get it patched up ?

Thanks guys all the stuff i need. Western's mind must be going......

Thanks western the "6 way" i mentioned is actually the 4 way for the air con...sorry about that, couldn't edit it out once errol posted Thats actually what i thought it was from looking at the electrical. Although i'm not good with electrical schematics i must be doing something right. Do you think that will come in handy for something that needs some juice in the cab? Does the reverse light comes from something mechanical in the gearbox in the same way the diff lock one does ? So the only remaining ones are the gearbox temp sender then which might not be fitted???? If it were fitted where would it be ? That looks like the end of this little puzzle. Thanks a million.

super thanks. Its all coming together.

pictures...1000 words and all that. Thanks

going to hijack this a bit. i'm 12.34V (not running) and 14.16V (running). Put everything on like fan and main beam and get 14.04V (running). Does that sound OK ? Considering I just fitted a 100amp alternator. Thanks ps battery is a Lucas 4 supreme 650Amp 30 second crank with 68Ah, 4A bench charge.

i have some wires not connected to anything. What are they? In the bunch that comes to the trans box diff lock plug. Theres some wires that go round the other side of the gear box. Has a black oval plug, whats that? Oil temp maybe? Ultimately connects to the nearside of the gearbox. Theres the two that go to the difflock. I know what they are. Theres one that goes to the handbrake lever. I know what that is. Theres two spare,,, red/white and a black with female spade connectors. What are these for? They are longer that the diff lock ones so presume something to do wit trans box or handbrake. Also in the fuse panel There is a large(ish) 6 way plug with a red/white and a good few browns of reasonable gauge. Whats that? Thanks in advance...Just thinking of split charge, aircon and all sorts of things that are way beyond me....

done...drilled 10mm using the flange as a guide to countersink the head of the bolt. Then 4mm using the countersink mark to get it central. It wasn't central but the MachineMart special "Clarke CHT123 Screw Extractor & Wrench Set" did the trick. Super. Thanks for all the help everyone.

The one i saw had neither fitted. Piece of cake to fit them.

Thanks guys. I'll give it a try with a large one and then start smaller as Simon said If i had some lefty handed i'd try that but not got any. I'll try machine mart. Thanks,,,will let you know how it goes.

Thanks Les, i was googling and had settled on 8.5mm which according to (some) tables is the drill size for M10 before tapping. As for the accuracy i know what you mean. It needs to be bang on . I'm wondering if the flange is the key here, as surely thats lined up prefectly as the other bolts are all tightened up. Its either this way or to try a guide hole and a remover tool. Someone else might have some previous experience and i'm in no rush to try this madness

One of my rear hub bolts is sheared off. ( i didn't do it ) Its now time to change/fix it. The drive flange is back on and this obviously reveals a lovely guide hole (the one in the flange) in exactly the correct place for the hub bolt. Should i just get a 10mm drill and use the drive flange hole as a guide and drill the hole as 10mm? Or am i going mad? What size hole do you drill before you tap M10? This will let me know what size drill to use. Should i use a smaller drill or just use the flange as a guide and go for it? Advice Welcomed.

Just had some shocks delivered. Good price, good delivery charge (£6 for 24 hours) and good service. Credit where its due.

i too have had some gaskets with holes in the wrong place. I put it down to me buying the wrong part. About the only thing i've got that were britpart were some inert lumps of metal (swivels) and some gaskets. I would have thought neither could be poor but the gaskets proved me wrong. Their QA must be terrible. It can't be hard to make gaskets correctly, can it? (I'm still convinced i ordered wrong otherwise my confidence in all manufacturing is shattered)

now thats what i call an answer...

thanks Mike, not that i'll be getting it from those numpties at LRSeries.

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10223/all/65/RBC100111-ISOLATOR.html Mike is this the Spring Turret you mean?

do you think they will all fit without modification? Its the mounts and stuff i'm worried about. I'm back into steep learning curve again as suspension is all new to me. Not sure if the levelling unit is working and considering i'm going to load up the 110 i'll need HD for the back and possibly the front too (eventaully) if i get a winch. I've seen a few things on removing the levelling unit so that might be ripped off. BTW Thanks Again.

I've posted this is the defender area already but its actually a parts request. So one of you guys might be able to help. For the background to this see my other post. Thanks Considering my 110 CSW with levelled, can/should i fit these? Some of them say not for levelled? Its the front/rear shocks and the rear springs thats causing concern. The normal front springs should be fine. I need HD on the rear and normal on the front. I'm well confused. Mikes given me the colours of the springs and his ride weight will be similar to mine. These are HD springs on the rear...but they say not levelled? * NRC6389 REAR SPRING NON LEVELLED R/H DEF 110 (G) * NRC6904 REAR SPRING NON LEVELLED L/H DEF 110 (G) Is there an HD version of this? * STC3770 REAR SHOCK ABS LEVELLED DEF 110 (G) x 2 These are Normal springs on the front... * NRC8044 ROAD SPRING O/S/F NORMAL DEF 110 (G) * NRC8045 ROAD SPRING N/S/F NORMAL DEF 110 (G) Not sure this is the correct Shock * STC3769 FRONT SHOCK ABS DEF 110/130 PRE TD5 (G) x 2 I've not even started on the fixings, plates and screws and bolts and stuff. Mike mentioned the Disco mounts with rubber isolators. Any ideas? I reccon i need to replace bolts and mounts and stuff and althought the parts book is pretty clear i just want to make sure the seats and rings and retainers fit the springs i'm buying. Sorry this is a rather large question!!

Considering my 110 CSW with levelled, can/should i fit these? Its the front/rear shocks and the rear springs thats causing concern. The normal front springs should be fine. I need HD on the rear and normal on the front. I'm well confused. These are HD springs on the rear... NRC6389 REAR SPRING NON LEVELLED R/H DEF 110 (G) NRC6904 REAR SPRING NON LEVELLED L/H DEF 110 (G) Is there an HD version of this? STC3770 REAR SHOCK ABS LEVELLED DEF 110 (G) x 2 These are Normal springs on the front... NRC8044 ROAD SPRING O/S/F NORMAL DEF 110 (G) NRC8045 ROAD SPRING N/S/F NORMAL DEF 110 (G) Not sure this is the correct Shock STC3769 FRONT SHOCK ABS DEF 110/130 PRE TD5 (G) x 2 I've not even started on the fixings, plates and screws and bolts and stuff.

Guys, do i need to be concerned that my suspension is levelled? The Springs suggested say not for levelled. Mike is yours levelled? This isn't going to mess something up is it? The Genuine springs are £29.77 each. The shocks are £35.78 and £43.10, front rear. Thats £276.84 plus vat! Are BOGE the OEM and will they be as good as the shocks are half the price?

Thanks all. Genuine it is. I'm presuming OEM is the same and cheaper from my local specialist. Now i need to see what i need to buy. Where's Western when you need him As i've been advised to get HD and Mike said Yellow/Yellow and Red/Green. I can only find Yellow/White and Red/Green (R/G seems to be for none levelled). Is this OK do you think.

thanks fridge. still after a bit more info on this as i'm still confused what a bush kit includes. Lots of rubber donuts but what are they all for? Do you think i should just go HD genuine and see if they last for half the trip or at least the shake down to North Africa? Even if the shocks don't will the springs?

i need to fix my suspension with something that will last untill my trip. My ride will fail its expired MOT without a fix. I know i need to fix my shocks as the rear ones are loose on the fixings. They seem OK not leaking but the mounts are loose.I presume a new shock will include the rubbers? This seems to be whats gone. I need to replace the roll bar bushes. Will these all be in a kit bush kit? Any suggestions? Whats in a Kit? This confuses me. I want to replace the springs as one is weak. Again any suggestions ? Whats normal front and rear on a 300tdi CSW. I just want to get it UK roadworthy for a reasonable price. The upgrades will come later once i know my final weight. PS part codes would be welcomed and i don't want to break the bank as this is a temporary solution but again not skimping to much. Money is something i can earn....doing it with crappy parts is not something i can live with. THANKS

Just got myself another nitecore and headstrap. Single AA and variable brightness. I also have a fenix. Both are super bright or dim with variable levels. Both fit the headstrap. Both take a single AA. The fenix runs 100 plus hours as does the Nitecore on dim. About 30 hours on good levels and a lot shorther on full brightness but then again we are talking car headlight brightness of full. Just checked and its 1 hour on full with the nitecore at 145 lumens.