tweetyduck

thanks. I've returned it and may very well need to find someone with a lathe when i get the replacement. I think the grooves will still be there but the dents shouldn't.

Thanks. this is also usefull to me.

Thanks, this obviously comes from year of experience i don't have. Just unpacked my new flange and it must have been made by a monkey....might be returing that. Its not exactly smooth. There's a mark on one of the seal faces and there's machining grooves. What do you think, will it ruin the seal?

Thanks i saw that earlier. Is that the certified triple AAA guaranteed way of putting in seals? Seems like springs always go to the oil ? You think they'd put it on the packet....... Does this actually appear in a manual anywhere? (i do trust you,,,i'm just astounded its not written !) TA

Which way round should the rear transfer box output flange seal go? Spring into the oil or spring out of the oil ? and does this apply to all seals ? no specualtion please. I don't want to do this again....for the third time Can't find the answer in the book or by google.

i'm going over to see this guy in the next week or so and he's offered 10% off... if your not in a hurry i can get you one, save you 10% and post it to you (or relay). Not sure what postage and package would be but royal mail standard parcels is £7.06 for 4kg. Up to you. If you want me to take a look at one and take a shed load of pictures let me know.

I've done the hard scary parts, i think? The springs. I think when doing all the other bist the wheels can stay on. Certianly true of the rear bits i did yesterday. Its pissing down with rain here today so looks like its going to be next weekend and some nights in the week. Yes,,,, when i did the springs i had three wheels on and two axle stands and the jack under the corner i was doing and was still very uncomfortable. The vehicle certainly moved when i dropped the corner axle so i could remove the spring. I must have jacked and repositioned the corner 10 or more times till i was happy. Still ended up using compressors and lowering the axle a little less. (the comressors were Srewfix ones. Better than machine mart and cheaper) thanks for the advice guy. This is scary stuff.

Glad i checked ! I new it was madness when lying on my back looking at it. Looked a bit important ! Thanks Both.

if i remove my leveller what actully do i remove. I was about to remove the entire A frame assembly . This seems to be very wrong. Should that still be there and i'm just removing the gas thingy? This has got to be the dumbest question yet......and possbly the nearest i've come to shaggin my defender. BTW i've just done all the springs and shocks and the lower links....not done the lower link bushes as i couldn't get them out! Also the rear anti roll bar has all been done. New bolts nuts and all sort of stuff. I'm gradually working my way to the front with the removal of the leveller planned for last. So i'm just plannning ahead. Sunday (tomorrow)its the front panhard and radius arms and track rods and drag etc...big day ! Will i be able to get out any of the bushes....hmmm

OK thanks. Will call them when i'm ready to swap it. Got a box of stuff today and another box coming monday. A few weeks work before that will get swapped. I'm replacing the oil cooler pipes so thats in the same area so might be as good time as any. thanks for tha advice all......

Brand new OEM maybe? £277 inc with no exchange. LRSeries unfortunately. I'll look around. Any ideas whats a good price for a recon?

yes so i gather... its very minor leak and it doesn't really need doing to be honest. So i thought i'd just do it. I don't think the bearing needs doing but if it can be done at the same time as the seal i might as well. Preventative maintenance is the name of the game. I've probably spent £1000 on bits that "might need doing" when i'm on my trip. I'd rather do it here and now,,,,, than on my back on the side of the road in Mongolia. If i ever get out of the UK or indeed more than 30 miles from my house!!

I've done a bit of searching and can't find out if this is easy or hard? Can i just buy a seal kit and fit it whilst laying on my back under the 110? I'm going to change the ball joint anyhow so do i just need to fit the kit whilst the arm is off? Any pointers ? Also if i decide to do the bearing. Can this be done at the same time?

I've just ordered a kit from mailorder4x4 with a load of other stuff. I'll see what they are like and if the look naff they'll go on Ebay or i'll return em. £20 for the kit. Last time i used this supplier they supplied Bearmach parts and the visa bill said Bearmach PLC. We'll see.

Super Thanks. As i thought but still worth checking.

No probs didn't think you were. To be honest i don't usually try them as every time i have they are expensive (i must barter a bit next time). Recently i've just sort of settled for Island4x4 and BritCar with the local specialist (was Roberts Country Vehicles) getting small small bits now and again. All three are excellent with Island being super quick at delivery and cheap! I was going to Email Brit Car and do what you said just before i posted this thread. I will also do the same at the main stealers unless someone can come up with someone with pre packaged kits. I get the feeling it won't be cheap for Genuine.

possibly they might but i can't find a part code for a kit. If I thought there was one i would have asked Western. Seems strange that theres loads of poly kits an nobody sells the equivalent rubber kit. Well at least not until someone suggests somewhere that does. Looks like its a hole in the market. (not meerkat)

well done. one for the common man...and not for the idiots in power. I might cut and paste that myself. Mine is actually registered as an "Estate" so they can hardly comlpain.

Is there anyone who sells a complete, genuine or OEM bush kit ? I can find shed loads on neon, glow in the dark poly kits but i just want rubber gear All i want is a genuine (knight rider black) kit. Please.

mine has some little pit marks and its shredded my nice new seal meaning i have a brake drum with oil in it again I've replace the seal as a temp measure. What the part code for the new flange? Thanks Output shaft flange = FTC4942 ??????? would that be it,,,master part picker? or this even better STC3433.

i'm on 194,000 about 300 of which is mine.... one day soon i might put another 50 on. I managed about 10 yeasterday before i removed another essential road going item in anticipation of replacing it.

thanks guys. looks like some weld is required. Going to clean it up myself and then get it welded to my specification. Just need to buy a angle grinder and then get some plate. Rather tell them what to do than leave it up to their judgement. Perfection assured.

Thanks. 300mm is almost all of a landrover. Looks like i need a welder,,,,buy one, or use a man???? hmmmm....i can weld (no really i can) but only ever used a gas mig system and thats not cheap. Looks like a need a man and some plate. i still have my 9 DIN weld glass from my visor when i was 16yo.... used two of those to watch the last eclipse. I might need some 13 now, i'm a bit older.

excuses excuses.....i can't remeber what i did yesterday let alone February....in my case its alcohol abuse.

the cross member is new, just this part of the extension seems shot. The crossmember was one without extensions and i'm not sure one with the full extensions would have got to this part of the chassis anyhow, its way along next to the anti roll bar mounts. i'm back at being a newbie...