tweetyduck

http://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=5837 where the hell does this go and which way round? Currently one isn't fitted and i'm in the process of fitting the new flange and this seems to need to be pushed over the flange on the slightly raised part. It seems to want to go on with the open end inwards to the box. Help....

might be superceded by a BA5001 as it seems to be the same kit. hopefully you find out as i'm interested in one myself

Yeah i too set them a little higher so the new parts could bed in. I used a spring scale (ebay) to set the tension so its likely to be innacurate anyhow and testing it once the inertia is overcome is just guesswork really. The needle on the scale moves quite a bit so you have to do it 20 times to even get close to an average reading.

from something i asked earlier thats overfuelling but i'm not an expert. Try turning the fuel down a bit. As I understand it it prety simple to do. I was shown what to do but not whats its called to explain this to you. If this is unclear (which it certainly is ) i'll post in more detail tomorrow. I'm not sure why overfuelling would start without changing something so something must have worn.

i think its 52mm, or 1 1/4" whitworth. one of the grown-ups will confirm

it seems to be working and its not seized. Anyhow i'll know for sure once i mess around with my bricks. You can imagine what a empty 110 with HD springs is doing when i drove it. Combine that with the potentially working leveller and it was pretty harsh, not that i have much to go on, but skippy to say the least. I may keep the leveler and put it back on when i return or then again a few pennies might be tempting.

i followed the advice of a few people who recomended the leveller was removed. I followed the guidance of another few and chose a HD spring destined for a none levelled 110. So the springs on my 110 are not meant to be with a leveller so it should come off. As to if its working or not i cannot tell all i know is the ride is too hard at the moment unless i'm loaded and thats sort of how it should be as i will be heavy on the trip. The levellers are a fortune £££ so i can't risk having it failing on the trip. I could leave it on but i'm my springs are not meant to be on a levelled car. Whats do you think?

it went down as i put the bricks in (a bit) and its certainly is better in the rear whilst driving as before it was all over the shop. The weight has made it pretty good in the rear. I'll measure it again (go for a drive) and take the blocks out (go for a drive) remove the leveller (go for a drive) and put em back (go for a drive). Bit of leg work but at least i will know whats what. I can always put the leveller back in later. I should have sore arms this week.

I have 4 and 1/4 inch even with the bricks. The leveller needs to come off me thinks. But what do you think? I've got about 35 breeze blocks in the back an it didn't go down a lot.

that raises another question. What the distance between the stop and the plate unladen on a 110 CSW as its a LONG way if i'm empty. The shocks are barely long enough and hence the bricks.

i've fitted HD springs for my trip in anticipation of the carp that i will have to carry. My bumps are at least 6 inches in the air. Sorry i wasn't clear, you've obviously not been reading my other posts... red red and red green in case you need to know.

:lol: i used to use a penny. I've changed all the handles and locks so they now work. A quick twist of a screwdriver would no doubt open them but on the face of it they all work. I think its about time I got the peddle cover and disklock.

You and me both. I think the options for making a nice lining are plenty. Its weight and looks that the issue for me. I might end up with carpet on there. Something foam backed and with carpet tile length pile but not carpet tiles as they are just too stiff. A new liner is £250 unless you can find a take off but they are few and far between and usually in Euroland.

Thanks Western, So part 8 (fulcrum bracket) in the parts manual needs to stay unless i get one from a non levelled 110? Basically everything above that on the picture needs to go? Sorry its a bit of a dumb question but considering my 110 is full of bricks at the moment and still riding high i certainly need to get rid of it (correctly ) . Although its certainly a sign it still works.

I'm looking at the parts book page 444. Do i just remove the lot ? Any tips? Looks like a few bolts to undo and its off? Anything i should be worried about?

Thanks all. I'm sure i couldn't have done it without your help. If you see me you can remind me that i own you a drink. Billing might be the right place to do so.

done dusted and passed. Thanks redneck.

A ringing endorsement from the MOT guy with words i never thought i'd hear like "clean, excellent and like new" mentioned. Plus he has LRs of his own so that always makes it easier. In fact there were three in his workshop, two of them were his. Still need to get those brake pipes and claipers done and the spill rail but thats the lot for things he noticed. Not even an advisory.

Thanks. You're actually second person to recommend them. I'll give them a go.

Someone told me a good place in Donny and the name escapes me. Can anyone suggest a Defender safe MOT station and somewhere thats not going to rip me off ? Thanks

nice one let me know thanks. PM me and we'll arrange something.

I'm interested in both. Let me know.

I was wondering, they don't seem to have the alpines or sunroof cut out. Surely you don't do this yourself?

Thanks seen that already. Bit pricy and will it actually make the condensation any better? theres still an air gap behind the liner surely?

yeh, I have the headliner and all the trim but I've removed it all. The headliner is in the normal saggy state and since we might be looking at it every night when laying on our backs I wanted to replace it with something better and also something that wouldn't let a litre of condensation form every day. The headliner just lets it form behind and this runs into the internal gutter and then right onto my right leg every time I brake. When I accelerate it just tinkles out down the rear quarter lights. And a litre is no exaggeration ! Thanks for all your help guys especially bagder, errol and red. This is all good, and great info. I'd love to see what you've done if you can post photos or your linings. I'm not doing this yet as its way down the "to do" list but this is all part of the plan.