tweetyduck

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52813&st=100 help.... its the inner taper bearing. how the hell do i get it out. Please post in the link above. This thread is closed.

anybody tell me what i need to do to replace this? The inner rear transfer bearing. Its knackered. Look like the circlip did the damage. The outer bearing seems fine now i;ve flushed it but i might change it anyhow. This (first pic) is the inner rear tranfer bearing. The next pic is the inside of the outer housing. You can see the score marks where the circlip has been spinning.

i'm an idiot and i repaced the rear UJs in no time at all. You need a vice to get them back together. Yes you need to remove the Prop Yes repace both with ones with grease nipples pref HD ones. Pretty cheap so no big problem. No need to replace the prop unless its splines are worn. one of the adults will be along with more advice......

yes. i'm going to do the clutch. think its recent but for the price i might as well. thanks all. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm going to move this back to the correct Defender section in my Land Rover in Bits thread.

Thanks vm Dave, Wear = nothing they all look good. Holes are there. Noises...with clutch up and in neutral theres a distinct noise. Might be clutch? With clutch down. Noise goes. In each gear it all sounds OK (OK to me anyhow) apart from the noise from the clutch in the background. The trans box bearing looks to be the issue so i need to take off the prop and brake drum and replace that. Thanks Again All.

right i've removed the round plate and the one behind that and removed a cog with a bearing at each end and a gear in the middle. Am i correct in assuming that zero power is sent to the wheels now. If a start it up and put in in gear its not going to spin its wheels. IS IT ????

Thanks pete. now i know what i'm looking for. Not done it yet as F1 took priority on Sunday. Might be a job for the bank holiday if it stops raining.

Thanks guys. Next chance i get.

Thanks for that. I appreciate the effort you've made with the response. Sounds like its pretty easy to remove so i'll give it a go. Hopefully your post combined with all the other posts will get me on my way. Thanks Everyone.

Thats a good idea if i understand it correctly. I'm disconnecting the Trans dox from the gear box and running the gearbox to see if anythings amiss. Since the gearbox is disconnected from the trans box no power to the wheels right? The gear box is spinning to see if there's anything broken. How many RMP should i give it? do i just need a tick over speed? Neutral doesn;t work anyhow so i couldn't try it without removing the input gear. Next question is how do i remove the input gear ? thanks for the help !

@Mike, I will try H,L,N again now i have the cover off. Can't beleive i didn't as soon as it came off. Didn;t even think to try all the levers again. Will do. @Steve, There were a couple of shavings in the bottom thats it. They were not what i'd call normal but not a great deal. I;d say two very thin one pence pieces (in area) in smallish fragments. They were paper thin...well thick paper but not card thick. I could post a photo of them if you'd like. @Dave, i'm getting the same feeling. A new box feeling....I'd rather do this now than 2 months into the trip. However, i'm in fix it mode at the moment so fix it till deciding my next move seems like a good idea. Thanks guys.

Thanks Errol, Diff lock works in H only. Can't select anything else. i.e. H normal and H difflock are fine. All normal running gears seem to work in H with and without difflock. I had that diagram on the screen earlier but its a bit confusing for a noob like me, thanks for pointing that out. I've now got the centre tunnel off and floor plates so i'll take off the rear prop again tomorrow and start to get it apart. I'll order the parts next week. I'm intending on removing the top of the gearbox where the gear lever goes in, do you think thats worth while. Will i be able to see anything?

Thanks. Does this mean the entire gearbox and trans needs to come out? edit ah...now see the link.

looks like one problem is the bearing at the rear of the trans box next to where it connects to the handbrake drum. not sure how this would affect me getting into difflock or low range so that might not be the only problem. there were some flakes of cage in the bottom, Is this a new unit or self fix? Pics attached. Thanks to those that suggested i take off the plate and spin a wheel.

now thats a good idea. I'll give that a go along with the inspections that others have suggested. Get the feeling I might find an entire cog on the end of my magnet. Errol. thanks for the encouragement. Need a bit of that at the moment. Thanks to all who've suggested all sorts of stuff. Its the weekend so i'll be on to it if it stops raining for more than 10 minutes.

I suppose stripping the gear box and trans is normal practice after a service. Must take you quite a while, every 6000 miles. Not heard of this before and LR haven't put it in there workshop manual. I'll write tham a letter to suggest to include it.

no worries. I can only thanks you all for your help. Should be, but not checked. The diffs were certainly full and correct when i looked the other day. I'm presuming all other lube was good but i never checked all the boxes and holes (most not all). Its only literally done 500 miles since it was serviced by the last owner. He did it himself but he's a landy guy and i trust he knows what he's doing. I'm going to check as soon as i can. Cue the barrage of negative you've been ripped off, didn't check, blah blah. Which is completely unhelpful. I suppose everyone who gets a serviced car back from the "garage" checks all the levels rather than trust them. All i can say is all the things he said needed doing, did need doing and i'm doing them. This seems like a 200,000 miles failiure to me but thats based on nothing so far. Thanks guys.

Reb, others have seen the compliance check automatically go to compiant when the DVLA changed the V5 to Estate. Mine was changed as few weeks ago as you know but now the check says "we don;t know about this vehicle". Well they did a few weeks ago so i;m wondering if they've changed the way they look at landrovers and are forcing us to register manually. I'm giving it a few more weeks to see what happens and i'll report back.

was meant to answer the question in the initial post but seems to have run away abit into the other post. Can't blame em for being helpful can we.

Thanks Keith thats just what i needed, someone to take a quick look. I'll give him a call. Once i know what it is i can at least attempt to fix it. I know what most stuff sounds like but this is way beyond my level of understanding and someone with years of experience will immediatly know whats wrong and enable me to 1) learn what it is for future "noises" and 2) decide on the best way to repair it. @zoltan...not yet. Its on the list of things to check when it stops raining.

Alternator is new and replaced this week. Handbreak seems fine. When handbreak off the vehicle can be pushed with little effort. Can't get into low range. This is one of the issues. Diff lock light on works if i push over the lever to the left. I can't seem to engage low or N either side Only H in Lock or no lock seems to work.

sounds like a good idea. will do that first.

1st. I'm am learning. 2nd. I'm an doing stuff myself 3rd. My trip is long enough away for me to learn enough. 4th. Would people stop telling me i'm not ready. I know that and i'm not going next week!

Repost/cross post from other thread. Can't get out of H on the low ratio/diff lock leaver. Not even sure it will go into N. Plus the below. nasty noises in 3rd. Possibly they are there in 2nd and 1st. But seems to drive in 1st and reverse without concerning me where as i get into 2nd and get worried...and in 3rd i sort of think this isn't right and i'm doing damage. Not perticularly loud noises just doesn't feel right and there is certainly a grinding. Actually feels like its below but infront of the stick so could be front diff but that would be in any gear i think. I really need someone with more experience than me to drive it. I drove it 3 or 4 times since i did the swivels/bearings and for only about 5 miles on each trip,,,, i could have done something. Although it made it 30 miles on the motorway before the noises mentioned below made me stop. Thus highlighing the Alternator as i couldn't start it again once i'd stopped. (thanksfully in services) Made it about another 20 miles back before the below made me stop for good. Although the failiure happened at the same time as the alternator and i'm convinced they are not related. There was a squeeling from the engine bay at certain revs then there was the rattling sound like a penny in a washing machine. That stopped and then the loss of mechanical power. Sort of a jerk and then picked back up. This progressivle got to the stage where i didn;t want to go past third so i stopped for good. I've not drive it since other than round the block in 1,2 and even 2nd seems dodgy. Hopefully someone might have an idea. Thanks