tweetyduck

Right almost all the trim is out. Wasn't very careful but its likely that most of it is going in the bin. A few swear words were used . Will post some photos. Its now uniformally raining condensation front to back and the inside roof gutter is full of water at the rear (my drive has slight slope). Now i just need to get ready for the removal,,, and get some help. Thanks Western.

thanks. once i know how to get the dam thing off i'll get all the bits and follow your advice. At the very least this will point me at the correct parts as its certainly not a 90. Strange how the disk thinks those parts are OK. oh well....Cheers!

Thanks both for your answers. Western, is this the stuff? Suppose i need a roll of each then. STC3291 STC3289 I get the feeling theres quite a few other bits that might be needed. I was looking at these also. 334615 which are now DDL500011 Will i need the windsreen top seals also? This might be a bigger job than i thought

When i'm doing Hub end float measurements i'm measuring the end float from the Hub nut to where? Wheres the reference point for the other end of the dial gauge? I'm thining if buying a magnetic guage as its quite cheap so the reference surface need to be magnetic and not aluminuim. what surface should i use the manual is a bit none specific.

So it decided to snow quite a bit last night so my undo all the bolts session is cancelled. Question for today is how difficult is it to remove the roof of a CSW? Am i corrct in thinking that its just undoing all the bolts? Are there any seals that need replcaing and if so where? Do i need some seam sealent for replcaing it? How much does it weigh? I want to take it off so i can bond carpet (or something)to the underside to stop the condensation.

thanks western thats great.

now if that were LRSeries they'd just ban you for not being able to operate your Email and 'god' forbid, calling them to ask where your parts were in the order process. Sounds like your supplier had the right attitude to customer service. Good Service = Repeat Business. I've made my feelings on customer service known in another thread and always vote with my feet. 3 strikes and you're out. There's always another supplier.

is the parts book....available? I have the rave disk. thanks allfor the advice.

They should run like one then (a web shop) and "accept" orders on the system rather than have the system go straight to "picking" at midnight on a sunday, which obviously they arn't as Duncan gladly and sarcatsticly pointed out to me. Which then sits there for 2 days with no updates i might add. To run a web shop you need a proper system and someone/thing updating it. If their web system was upto date and instilled any level of confidence we'd not need to call. I order £1000's worth of stuff each year online and even Ebay is a better system. By the way you quote their web site i'm presuming something,,, as this is exaclty what they do in their snotty Emails.

Thanks. they do a ali version but i suppose that removes the benefits. Any advice from any one the overlanders would be welcomed. If this is pointless then i'll stick with the enclosed model or genuine and replace the bleed screw for somethig that doesn't snap off.........

OK so the orders placed. He even called me at 8pm to confirm he'd got it and recomended a few parts were swapped to (cheaper or dearer) alternatives based on his opinion of what he'd put on his LR. Even suggested a completely different hub seal with an internal spring to keep it sealed, again based on experience. So up to now a much better service. If LRSeries were 10% as happy to help they might still have my order. So far he's got full marks. He's also asked me to call tomorrow so he can finalise the details in case he sees anything else i've miss-specified. (I ordered genuine on some parts and not on others and he's advised changes one way or the other based on the quality of what he's seen over the years and who makes them) So far recomended. Final verdict later......

I'm looking at Britcar (UK) Ltd. Duncan there is a lot more helpful than the Duncan at the other place http://www.brit-car.co.uk mostly more expensive though by the looks of it.

To be honest they're probably better off not using them. Taking my business elsewhere is already a pleasure. Called them, immediatly answered by experienced guy and he advised that one of the parts i picked isn't the best quality and to go Genuine. So all round a better experience allready. Will they be cheaper....lets see. He's already offered me discount and applied it to my logon for this order.

To be honest I’m just trying to cancel my order with them. I've had pretty quick responses though but all telling me that I should read their T&Cs when all I wanted was the status to have not gone into picking at midnight sunday and stay there all Monday and today. Obviously automatic and not building any confidence on my first order. "Order Received" on Sunday would have done,,,moved to "picking" today or monday would have done. But it seems I’m being unreasonable to expect some level of confidence my £800 order is being dealt with in a timely fashion. The emails I’ve received aren’t acceptable to me, not helpful and are almost sarcastic to the point of rude. I've no idea if he's having a bad day, but don't we all. All I wanted to know is when it might arrive or that it’s actually moved on! What Fridge said "annoying" and I’ll try to take my business elsewhere. I’ve no comments on quality of parts and no comments on delivery just plain old poor quality communication (mainly manners) for me. The web site is good but they should learn that not all customers are idiots and not understanding something on the web site isn't grounds for poor customer service or rubbing you're nose in it. They've also now blocked me from buying from them ever again. Hows that for customer service.

http://www.theyachtshop.co.uk/items/yacht-chandlery/motors~propulsion/fuel-line/delphi-hdf296-diesel-petrol-separator-detail.htm This seems like a good idea. What do you think? Aledged to be higher performance and you can see whats in there. sorry should have put this in the other thread i've just seen.

I'll read up then. Seem to spend all my time doing that at the moment.

I'll take a look mike. I'm presuming the TREs stay the same?

What do you reccon if I'm changing the pins and replcaing the ball and bearings. Should i just put the same shims back in? Is there an easy way to tell when you have enough in (or too many)? I've ordered some new ones and have ordered 2 x 0.01 and 2 x 0.03 how can i tell if i need any? Is it a take it for a drive test? Consider that i'm a novice......thanks

great i got it correct then as i'm on MA..... 4 genuine bearings on order.

same question. On my 1995 110 is the upper and lower 606666? Microcat showed it as the same part? I can feel a return coming on..........

thanks good advice that a few others have also said. I shall save everything for now. I've just ordered £800 worth of parts incl new swivels, bearings, seering damper, track rod ends (which i'll copper grease ), Rear prop UJs, Radiator hoses, gaskets and all sort of stuff. I basically took the engineers report and bought all the parts. Well all except the stuff i don't think i want to tackle yet. Anything that involves bolts and bits i can do. Things that involve brake master cylinders and things like that i'm giving a miss till i get get some profession help/advice and someone to show me. This will either involve the specialist and time in their shop or beer tokens for an member. Thats a big chunk of the budget gone but a lot less than the specialist doing it so 50% saved really, my own labour.

@mike yes thats almost certainly true as the previous owner seemed to look after it. however for the small cost of a new one i think i might as well. I'm going to do as you advise and also replce the seal but i will just replace the bearings anyhow. Seems like a small price for piece of mind. Cheers! Should i got for the HD drive memeber FTC859A? Seems little point without the axle? @RNP good advice and i'm learning as i go. I was looking at some comma bearing grease and loctite on the threads. I know you mentioned copper geease but is that really wise on bolts that kkep the wheels on the corners?

I'm intimately familiar with the internal working of the door locks and can't imagine its going to be easy to solve this. Western is correct on the likely cause but how do you get at the workings? At the very least the internal handle bezel might give you a view inside. Only one screw to undo lift the leaver and the plastic bezel can be removed. If the door still has the rain shield in place the view might not be very good. There's one single clip thay may have broken meaning the door isn't unlocked as the rod pulling the locking mechanism isn't connected. I've just replaced two on my 110. All i can say is good luck. You need to get into the inside of the door and it won't be easy.

There doest seem to be any play. I do have a leaking hub oil seal though so i'm going to have to get into there anyhow. Also one of the wheel bearings is going so thats another reason. I think i might as well bite the bullet and do the lot. At least its then done.

they're not dry but they're not full either. One has more than the other. How much should be in there? I undid the top 13mm square bolt and used a torch. Could see a bit in the bottom of one and the other not much. I suppose i should just replace them and do the job properly. Whilst i'm doing it is there anything else I might as well do? or something thats easier to do whilst i have them off?