tweetyduck

depends how much money you have to spend after you've bought it...... The price guides in the mags are pretty OK for the mid range stuff the older 300tdi's, ones in better nick, go way over the top sometimes. 300Tdi anything from 3000 to 13000 for M,N,O,P,R and its a lottery. I'd be expecting a R 300Tdi to be £8000 or more in good nick and they are difficult to find. If you're not wanting it for anything special i'd get a newer TD5 for less cash. I'm not an expert.

Mines exaclty the opposite and stays cold. Mine is sticking open. Test it in a Jug of boiling water and see if you can replicate it sticking. Only needs a Jug boiling and Jug of chilled.

Ideas.

Once they'd read their own small print when i pointed it out they just raised my excess to £750. The policy allows for no security. Its with Lancaster. Since a Diskloc is Thatcham 3 approved do you think that would work?

thanks a mil this helped me no end today. In the end it was the fuse for the hazzards that made them not work. But i learnt how they work in the process. THANKS.

that paint isn't very good and its a very small amount. easier to connect an earth by soldering to the aerial and wiring the earth to a bolt somewhere. Don;t think you have an easy solution. Surely the coax onto the aerial gives an earth also?

Just done this myself Drained the system and ran two big buckets of water through it before refilling used this antifreeze http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/351 Motosave sell it in 5 litres. it didn't need the full 11 litres spec'd for my 300tdi. Yours should need 11.5 litres according to the web site. I reckon my drain wasn't 100% so i used 4 litres of Antifreeze and just topped up with tap water. The web site doesn't list this stuff for you vehicle but i can see no real reason why it wouldn't be OK its OAT stuff. Officially approved by: Mercedes Benz (DBL 7700.30 - 325.3), MAN (324 SNF), Porsche, VW/Audi/Bentley/Lamborghini/Seat/Skoda (TL774-D/F), BMW Mini Cooper Diesel 2007 onwards - Silicate free, Organic Acid Technology (OAT) for superior engine protection - Up to 5 years protection - Protects against corrosion, erosion, over heating & freezing - Pure ethylene glycol base - Suitable for petrol & diesel engines - Safeguarded with bittering agent - Protects from -36°C to +45°

Drained the system and ran two big buckets of water through it. Re-filled with some antifreeze and also tested the thermostat in a jug of boiling water. The engine now gets hotter and the needle moves towards the middle. So the thermostat was probably stuck full open. I'll get another and fit that later. The heater blower also gets warmer of course. I've actually fixed something! All i need now if for it to overheat cause there no fan....sods law and all that. used this antifreeze http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/351

So my question is do i get mine changed to 2950kg as stated on the plate? Considering what and where i'm going do you think getting the paperwork to say 2950kg rather than 3499kg is a good idea? Will setting the lower figure limit me in any way? Will it mean i can't load it up? Thanks N

thanks western i'll give them a try monday,

I checked the wiring and earthed the wire as instructed and the gague goes all the way up so the wiring is fine. The connector is a bit knackered so i need to chage it along with the sensor and fit a new thermostat at the same time. What should the normal operating temp of a defender 300Tdi be? Whats the part number for the connector? Can't find it anywhere. Mine seems to run a a good deal less than a hot home radiator in fact i would say its only warm 40c maybe 45c. With having no viscous fitted this is no bad thing (running cool) so i might wait till the viscous is going on. Thanks N

Thanks. Helpful for me also.

dumb ass question...sorry does the thermostat just control the flow of coolant around the system? Symptom:- temp gauge sitting in cool all the time (although it does move a bit). Considering i have no engine cooling fan this is strange. Heater blower not getting hot. Only luke warm air. Engine not even hot to the touch after a long drive. Diagnosis:- So i reccon the thermostat is stuck full open. Would that be sensible? Fix:- Replace the Thermostat. Check the sender by earthing the wire, which is i presume in the elbow near the thermostat on a 300tdi 1995? Is this my first real fault that i've fixed on my own. Please say yes!

super Luke. Just what i needed as my hazards are knackered.

i note the 110s are on the sheet as class 4..

i was wondering how long this would take. When in times of lots of claims the companies do a silent deal. All claims 50:50. Its illegal in my book. Take em to court. This happens every time theres a increase in "seasonal" claims. Complete fcukers. I just hate insurance.

Keith thats amazing. Can you send me details of who you spoke to as i might very well go in and get them done at that price. (I'm in Donny to)

Prith i'm going to try to replce the felt (already have it) but its a bit cold a wet at the moment. The old is easy to remove but i'm not sure it will be easy to fit the new stuff as you don't seem to be able to remove the glass. You can remove the top spacer (top of frame at rear) that allows you to open the window more but thats still not enough really. Anyhow i'll post once i've done it but it might be a while as its not something i want to do in the snow and minus temps. Click the watch topic button at the top of the page. I'll do one and take photos when i do the second. I still think solids are the way.

Mike, where to get them. Exmod do them for i think £60 each. Can i get em cheaper? http://www.exmod.co.uk/othervehicles.html (right at the bottom) Talk around the chez birds is sunday lunch in Stockton...how you fixed? Nothing concrete yet but if you're OK we might be able to get up there. I'm looking for a second set of eyes on the 110.

I want to swap to solid rear windows so any info on this would be great. Thanks I know ex-mod do them off the shelf or indeed fitted. Think its £299 fitted.

Under running halogen bulbs is generally just a voltage thing. Lower the 12v to 11.5v or 11v or whatever and you will see a marked brightness difference and bulb life will increase quite a bit. A simple variable resistor should drop the required voltage and generate the required brightness. However this will not really see a marked increase in energy efficiency. Halogen bulbs are really just incandescent bulbs with a slightly different chemical reaction taking place. You will note that as you the lower the voltage the colour (temperature) will change to a completely different light. This might be undesired. Advice is change to a “dimmer” bulb with the require rating or change to LED. However LEDs are quite directional and I don’t know your application.

i've measured it and its exactly 41cm. So the Med should fit but its borderline. Its ashame there doesn't seem to be any local stockists as i'd like to try one out. I suppose i need to hunt for another LR owner in Asda or Tescos next time i'm there. Thanks All. Will post a photo of the wheel and let you know which one i get. This question seems to crop up a lot!

before i order one...has anyone used Medium as other forums has said Medium is the one to get and the large is just that,,,too large. Its a standard county wheel. At least it looks standard.

Thanks a million guys. I've just been and collected the vehicle and stopped at an "experts" on the way home. He has confirmed its overfulled and is going to adjust it for me and also show me how to do it. My feet are blinkin freezing....

I know how you feel Neil ! 3 months of education, reading, phone calls and research later,,,, i still know nothing.