Troll Hunter

Thanks, I didn't recognise it as a postcode. Duh! Mike

I'm attempting to avoid the bad earth syndrome by providing every consumer (lights, indicators, fans) with its own earth to an earth busbar. Each busbar has a cable to the battery negative. Will it work, I'll tell you in some twenty years time. PS. I'm just gone 80 yrs old! 😄

One of the tips for getting the most benefit from the forum is to state your location. Who knows where Np108qz is? You obviously don't want any local help. Mike Tel: +1 250 353 8717 (M)

Don't forget that in a roll over situation if your batteries are not clamped down the batteries potentially connect with the metal under side of the seat box (battery positive to grounded body work !!!!). You probably don't want to add to your roll over problems by incinerating your Landrover. Or perhaps you do ..... I've just fitted a strip of rubber insulation to the underside of the seat box. Mike

I am definitely up for a set. Please let me know the postage to BC, Canada. I don't expect UK postage to apply internationally. PM me for my address. Mike

Congrats to you both, and what a bonus - having a partner who loves Land Rovers and off-roading

Many thanks for your replies and info. The engine change was done, by others, and I have no idea if the slave cylinder was changed or not. Since the system is in pieces I might as well renew the slave with the correct one. Please can someone give me the appropriate part number? Many thanks. Mike

Having a hybrid, in terms of a 1991 CSW with an original 3.5 V8 with, I believe, a L77s gearbox, and now having the same vehicle with a 300TDi and a R380 gearbox, I have major questions about the clutch piping system. Will the original master cylinder supply sufficient fluid volume to actuate the 300TDi/R380 slave cylinder? Is the ID and thread of the master cylinder the same for both clutch master cylinders? What are the threads and IDs of the L77s slave cylinder and the 300TDi/R380 slave cylinder, since they are not the same? Also, my existing clutch line includes a section of coiled semi-rigid line, presumably to absorb vibration. Is this include in Item 16, p 480 of my 1997 parts manual? Any help on these questions will be very much appreciated, and many thanks in advance to any and all who can provide answers. Mike

Thank you, Peaklander, I like your proposal. I think that that is the way to do it. I'll put a switch in each power supply line. Today I've spent sorting the wiring for some dash mounted utility outlets, power and USB, and the under-bonnet lights. Both sets now work😊.

Thank you, L19Mud and Bowie69, for confirming my design is OK. Regarding the earths, I'm taking serious steps to avoid future earth problems. I'm doing a total rewire and every electrical fitting has an earth wire back to a busbar. From memory, the only exceptions are the Low Oil Pressure switch and the engine coolant sender which both earth through the body/mounting bolts. I like this floor illuminating idea. I'm just installing two LED strips under the bonnet and will install the same for the footwells. I'll have to think about the wiring and activation of these. Mike

HGi, all, Although the OP hasn't commented there have been 87 views, but no comments. Does his mean my circuit is complete rubbish and not wasting time on, or is it OK? If it is c**p please let me know. Mike

I fully agree that too many sub-fora can be self defeating, but I still think that this one should include the entire transmission train from the flywheel to the tyre since all parts are inter-related. Mike

No response from Mods or Admin, why not? What was the logic? It's not just the axle components that affect drivability it's wheel/tyre size, over/under drive, t-box rations and gearbox ratios. All these have to be considered when deciding on axle components. Surely, this new sub-forum should look at Transmission as a whole. Mike

You might get some pointers from: https://www.defendersource.com/ It's based our side of the Atlantic and it seems that quite a lot of LS3 swaps are discussed there. Mike

Thanks for the reassurance, FF. I'll ignore all the items in my previous list. Hi-Fi radio in my LR is not a possibility, let alone an objective, so the occasional interference will not be a problem. Thank you, again, to everybody who has contributed to this thread. Mike

My courtesy light wiring was also a right mess and they were not reliable. I've replaced it completely with the circuit below. I now have a light above each front seat, one in the centre above the rear seat and a fourth just inside the rear door. One of the most unreliable aspects of the original system was that the door switches earth through the mounting which are subject to raging corrosion. I have installed dedicated earth wires from each switch to local earth busbars which are connected to the battery negative. The three courtesy lights normally have their local switches set to "ON with Dash or Door switch", but can also be operated with the local switch. Please ignore the numbers by wires. I don't have the luxury of colour coded wires so I affix numbers instead. Hope this helps. Mike

Thank you, all. It's slowly coming together. Since my vehicle was originally a V8 with air-conditioning, there may well have been a diode(s) in the A/c system, now gone, as Sigi_H suggests, and since it was first registered in Kuwait it may have been to Saudi spec, as shown in the 300Tdi Electrical Circuit Diagrams, and it has got a HRW, which accounts for another one, both identified by western. Thank you, western. The 300Tdi Electrical Circuit Diagrams also shows a diode in the brown/yellow lead to the alternator. So, having identified five possible locations for diodes, are there any of the locations in my earlier list that would benefit from a diode, primarily to reduce arcing at the switch? If nobody (FF) comes back with recommendations I'll stick with the HRW, park brake and alternator locations. Mike

You did, on 1st January 2019. It's one of the threads that western included in his reply. Mike

OK, that's one accounted for, although I don't understand how it works in the VSR. Damn electrickery! Thank you, monkie. I've identified the section of wiring from the alternator to the battery, including the section to the no charge warning bulb. This section is intact and includes the resistor, but does not include a diode. As far as I can tell from the wiring sections the fuel shut-off solenoid does not have a connection to the alternator. So what are the other two for? Do any of my list of suspects qualify? Mike

Of course, I did forget some items. What about the two screen wash pumps, one for the windscreen and one for the back window, and what about all the relay coils? Do these small current users require protection with a diode? Mike

Hi, All, The vehicle is a 1991 Defender 110 CSW in middle east spec. which originally had a 3.5V8 but now has a 300Tdi You can tell from my earlier requests for help that I'm no expert in electrickery. I now have another question that I need help with. In the rat's nest of old wires from behind the dash there are three Pektron A75-294 diodes. The old wiring doesn't give any clue what they were for since none are connected close to any component and each seems to have multiple wires connected to it. Also, cable colours do not give any sensible clues! I'm assuming that they are all flyback diodes, but what circuits were they protecting, and are there only three circuits that need protecting? Or can a single diode protect multiple circuits? I've not seen this in any of the Youtube vids I've watched. I understand that a flyback diode is required on inductive circuits, and those I've been able to identify are: - Starter solenoid - FIP solenoid - Cabin heater fan motor - Starter motor - Ignition coil - from original motor - Alternator - Rear window Wiper motor - Windscreen wiper motor And I'm sure that I've not identified some😕. So, if anyone with the necessary linked-up grey cells can enlighten me I will be very thankful. Mike

Hi, My top left warning light position, Park Brake, is also empty, and I'll leave it that way. I don't have a PDWA switch so I'll use one position for Park Brake ON and the other for Low Brake Fluid Level in the reservoir. Mike

Thank you, all, for your replies and explanations. It seems that I have a redundant Brake system warning bulb location. And whether I need to re-include that printed circuit gizmo time will reveal. Of course, if it is a part of the Low Fuel Warning Light circuit I can do without it. Not all LR vehicles had it. So, thanks again, another mystery solved. Mike

Thanks, Peaklander. I don't know why it didn't load, but I'll try again.

Vehicle is a 1991 110 CSW, originally with a V8 and for the Middle East market, specifically Kuwait. I’m still confused regarding brake system warning lights. On my warning light panel there are three lights that appear to be for brake situations, see photo. The one at top left appears to be a warning that the Park Brake is ON. One of the others is warning of low brake reservoir fluid level. What is the third? Is there any other brake system warning? Could one have been installed for a worn-out brake pad warning, as is found on modern vehicles, although there is no evidence around the brake calipers or pads of such a system ever having been installed? What am I missing, or is the third symbol just an unused location? To add to my confusion, while removing a rat’s nest of old wiring from behind the dash I found this little gizmo. It was wrapped in what used to be called Denso Tape. What is it for, what does it do, and do I need to reinstall it? Any help on either or both of these queries will be very much appreciated. Mike