Troll Hunter

This is good news for everybody. Britcar was my favorite site since they provided details about the item , eg dimensions, and also availability from other suppliers. A really good site. Mike

What does your electrolysis bath do to non-rusted, machined surfaces? Mike

To close this out, here's what I've done. I couldn't get the park switch to operate so I opened the gear case - rivets no problem for Mr. Drill. I had already opened the park switch. Firstly I cleaned all the old grease out so that I could see what was happening. Running the motor and carefully watching the contacts in the park switch I could see that they were not being opened by the pin. After taking many measurements I decided that the cam on the inside of the plastic gear wheel was about 1mm too low, so I made a shaped steel shim 1.25mm thick to fit over the plastic cam, glued it on with Araldite, and I now have a fully working rear wiper. BTW I also removed the earth wire from the park switch. Since I'm totally replacing the original electrical wiring this is my rear wiper circuit. I'm sure the above will generate some comments. Feel free, I've got thick skin and broad shoulders! Mike

Hallelujiha, the thread has risen again, and I'm mega befudled! I've just taken my rear motor park switch apart, and it looks just like yours, above. What I can't understand is why the incoming brown wire (live) is connected to the black wire (earth) when the button is pushed up. It appears that the gear box cannot be taken apart, since it is rivetted together, so at what stage of shaft rotation is the button raised or lowered? How does this switch work? Mike

Here's a link to a good explanation of starter circuits that I came across recently. It explains the relationship between the starter relay and the starter solenoid. https://startersolenoid.net/starter-relay/ Mike

I had brand new Optima Red Top and Yellow top installed together in a twin battery set up and they both failed in just over three years. Basically expensive junk! Until well proved, stick with good old lead/acid before embracing expensive, new technology! Mike

Small donation to Jez has been sent and receipt received. Every little helps. Mike

You should probably check the clearance between the steering wheel and your thighs before fixing your seat lift. I retro fitted non-LR seats and found that there was no gap between the wheel and me! I subsequently fitted a smaller diameter wheel and I'm well pleased.

Cash donation to Jez being arranged. Material donation from here is difficult. Mike

Wonderful photos. They must have revived many happy memories. Glad it's for a new locker, not a new job! Mike

Retire as early as you can, life's too short. There's no point in dying rich! It's 20+ years since I retired and I'm still enjoying every day, even with the odd aches and pains that come with the years. And don't ever consider yourself "old", I don't. Until the current troubles in Ukraine I've been planning, with friends, an overland trip from Sweden to Ulaan Baatar in 2023, but perhaps that will have to be replaced by some other road trip. Currently under serious consideration is Tierra del Fuego back to Canada. If it becomes reality we'll post progress. Mike

^^^^^^^ Oil! Mike

Many thanks for the tip, western. One of the main things I like about this forum is that any problem a members has has usually already arisen for another member and there is a solution or work around. On with the rebuild! Mike

I've never heard of either of these techniques, but since you are replacing a length of brake line you'll have to bleed the system anyway, so I don't see a problem in draining the brake fluid reservoir. Provided you don't move the brake pedal whilst the reservoir is empty I don't think that the other brake lines would have any air bubbles in them when you refill the reservoir. I would still be inclined to do a proper/full bleed operation on all four wheels once the new line section and relevant caliper has been bled. Mike

Glad to welcome you to the No. 1 LR forum. This is predominantly a technical forum and you'll find a wealth of knowledge and experience here, and everybody is ready to share, so don't be hesitant about asking questions because you think that they're "too simple". We've all been there, and some of us (me) are there far more than most! And get those photos and the FB link up. Mike

If you've damaged the male, bolt, thread you've probably damaged the female, caliper, thread. I don't know how you could check the continued serviceability of the fixings. Possibly by tightening the bolt into the caliper to its design torque value. Values are given in the attached. https://www.fastenermart.com/files/metric_tighten_torques.pdf Mike

Thank you, both, Northwards and Eightpot. It never occurred to me that the wires passed through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. I've found the holes in the engine side of the bulkhead, at last. Because I already have the front wings, brake servo and heater box fitted the holes are totally hidden from view, and I've only found them by touch. Perhaps with my hinged mirror and a flashlight I'll be able to see them, but it looks very much as if I'll have to do some dis-assembly to get my wires in. At least I now know where they have to go. Many thanks, again. Mike

1991 110CSW Old age strikes again! Or maybe because it’s nearly six years since I started my LR tear down for a complete rebuild, but I'm totally at a blank wall. Please can somebody tell me how the wires to the two bulkhead/door frame mounted courtesy light switches get from the dash mounted courtesy light switch to inside the hollow pillars that the doors and switches are mounted on. I assume that they also go up the A-pillars to above the head lining to the roof mounted lights, but it's access to the door switches that has me stumped ATM😕! Many thanks for all suggestions. Mike

Hi, rich222, Welcome to the forum. I must admit that I'm a little surprised that you haven't had a response to your question since the forum generally is technically orientated with a vast amount of experience and knowledge. I'm sorry that I cannot help you myself, having a 300Tdi, and not having any personal experience of rebuilding engines. At least this response will bounce your query to the top of the subject list and may catch someone's eye. Best wishes with your rebuild. Mike

What are the dimensions? Is the trough the same length as the width of the window? Is the length of the "drain leg" the same as the distance of the bottom of the window, when in the down position, to the bottom of the door? If the answer is "Yes" to either of the last two questions it gives an indication of where to look for previous attachment. Mike

Don't forget that the loom is only the victim of the fault, probably not the cause. You still need to identify and correct that. Mike

I didn't take your comment as anything but helpful, FF, and thanks for the further tips. Mike

Thanks, FF, I think that I've just learned something about links. When I forward emails, particularly the joke ones, I generally do remove all previous addressees and only use bcc, so each recipient only sees their own address. I didn't, until now, appreciate what all the verbiage beyond the hyphenated title was for. I'll try to follow your advice. Mike

Copied from the Adventure Journal, and worth a look. The vid is only 46 seconds, so it won't take a significant part of your life! https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.adventure-journal.com%2F2022%2F01%2Fin-which-a-land-rover-driver-learns-the-importance-of-snow-friendly-tires%2F%3Futm_source%3DAJ%2527s%2BDaily%2BDigest%26utm_campaign%3D0b0104311a-RSS_EMAIL_CAMPAIGN%26utm_medium%3Demail%26utm_term%3D0_a7cb93cd43-0b0104311a-390067181%26mc_cid%3D0b0104311a%26mc_eid%3D3975ea81b3&data=04%7C01%7C%7C95fe21923b624633a3e108d9da36782b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637780749751331787%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000&sdata=bKa9Lf3awLLmOzZy5dRhttLBtzUOyNAelUSdF0O%2BJA8%3D&reserved=0 Mike

Thanks for posting, Maverick. Mike