Troll Hunter

Can somebody who understands oil seals please tell me what the following seals are supposed to do, ie keep differential oil, or water, out of wheel bearings, and the correct orientation, ie lip towards differential or lip towards wheel. I note that the same bearing, part no. RTC3429, is used for both the inner and outer on both axles, but the seal arrangements are different, there’s no outer seal on the front axle, hence my question. PartNo. Location on axle LR Parts Manual Page no. Item No. Function 571718 Front axle, on half-shaft inboard of CV joint 414 7 FRC3099 Front axle, stub axle 420 2 FRC8221 Front axle, in-board of inner wheel bearing 420 8 FRC8221 Rear axle, in-board of inner wheel bearing 427 6 FRC8222 Rear axle, out-board of outer wheel bearing 427 13 Many thanks in advance, Mike

Since you seem to have an empty tank at times, try noting the fuel guage reading every couple of gallons as you fill up. Mike

The wheels and tyres are all 6 years old - new in 2009, but since the vehicle has been standing for a while it could be a case of tyre deformation, and after over 150,000km the AT2s are about due for replacement, so that should take care of tyre deformation, and my wallet. I bought six wheels and tyres, since I wanted the comfort of two spares on some long trips, so I'll try putting the two spares on the front, and if there's no change I'll put them on the rear. I also have a full set of winter Michelin 205/80/R16 tyres on original LR wheels, so I'll try them also. These changes will have to wait a couple of weeks though, since I'm on a road trip, currently in Newfoundland, about 6,000km east of home. All the suspension bushes were replaced in 2009, and I thought of them after the second visit to the tyre shop, but they all appear to be sound, ie good and hard between their installation plates with no play anywhere. The only failure I've found is in the left rear anti-roll bar bush, but I can't believe that this causes such a wobble effect. As for the swivel pin bolts, they were re-installed and torqued according to the book, and are still tight. I can't find any looseness anywhere, but they'll bear checking again. If I don't find any of the above solves the problem I'll replace all the wheel bearings. As you say, they're cheap enough. Many thanks for your suggestions, and I'll update when I solve the problem. Mike

Hi, All, I need some serious advice about wheel imbalance. I am running LT265/75/R16 General Grabber AT2s, and have done so for a number of years. I have been very pleased with them. I've rebuilt the front hubs on my '91 110CSW (front discs and rear drums) which included the RH CV joint renewal, new thrust washers under the top swivel pins. Swivel pin and wheel bearings were all good and were re-used, keeping the races with their original outers. The front prop shaft was marked before removal and refitted correctly. All four u-joints have been examined and are good. Drag link and track rod are both tight and the TREs are good. LR manual pre-load and torque settings were followed throughout. The same wheels and tyres are fitted as previously, and in the same positions. All wheels have been confirmed as running true. There is no evidence of slack wheel bearings when each wheel is raised and gripped top and bottom. Prior to starting this work I had never had any wheel imbalance problems, but now I can't get away from them. Four tyre specialist shops have totally failed to solve the problem, each merely shifting the "wobble speed" up or down a bit. Currently, the speed band from 60 - 90kph (35 - 55mph) is a no-stay area, which gets very trying at times! What am I missing? Is there anything in the axle components that could be causing this problem? Do I just have to bite the bullet and buy new tyres? Any help or suggestions will be very much appreciated. Mike

Thank you, everybody, for your advise. I drilled a hole at the lowest point of the diff casing, and I was amazed at the volume of oil that drained out overnight. I ground a groove around the crack, well past the visible ends of the crack, and MIG welded it. So far, no problems, but I don't expect any since the diff is not under pressure. Another job successfully completed, thanks to the input from the Forum. Mike

It seems my landy troubles are never ending! Having finally completed rebuilding the front hubs I filled both ball joints and the diff with oil last thing yesterday evening. This morning I go out to the shop and find a small pool of clean oil under the diff. Yes, both plugs were fitted and tight. Detailed examination revealed a cracked weld on the front of the diff casing between the front plate and the section that is above and below the diff, joining the two axle tubes. So, what are my repair options? Getting a replacement axle is out of the question, considering my location. Is this likely to become catastrophic if not attended to? I'm about to set out on a cross-Canada road trip of about 15,000km and a tow home from midway would not be appreciated by SWMBO! Could it be re-welded without deforming the case? Would this be the best option? If so, apart from draining the diff case, what other preps and precautions should be taken? Could the leak be fixed with something like JB Weld? Many thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice. Mike

Thank you very much, Western and Landy Novice. Now I know where I can get them, even if they don't have a discrete part number. Mike

I can't be the only LR owner who has this type of pad spring! Please, doesn't anybody know the part number? Mike

I checked all dimensions carefully and decided that there must be some sort of wear lip inside the axle case or differential. I gently applied my lump hammer to the outboard end, and it suddenly slid in another quarter inch or so. End of problem. The rest of the stub axle went together text book fashion, complete with overhauled calipers with new s/s pistons. Many thanks for your thoughts, Snagger. Miike

Welcome, J.a.g_100. You've got a good looking rig, and you've certainly chosen the right forum for sound technical advice. However, I can't offer any advice on the subject of tyres, but I know you'll get a massive amount of it here. Best of luck, and enjoy your new toy. Mike

Hi, All, I'm still on my front axle o/haul and am having an unexpected problem. I've already rebuilt the right hand side, complete with a new half-shaft and new CV joint, and managed to get the end float within limits, thanks to robertspark, but the left hand side is providing a problem. When I torque up the bolts that secure the stub axle to the swivel housing there is something binding the half-shaft so that I can only turn it with great difficulty and there is no end float at all. They are the original differential, stub axle and half-shaft, and I'm not aware of having altered anything on them. The half-shaft appears to be fully into the differential, stopping travel with a solid "thunk". The only thing that I can think of is that the stub axle bush, FRC4319, has come slightly out of the stub axle and the stub axle bush is binding on the half-shaft. If somebody has a Defender stub axle easily accessible could you please measure the extension of the bush beyond the steel of the stub axle. Mine is 2.7mm. The WSM instructs to press or drive-in the bush to the shoulder. Since I can't see any shoulder, I assume my bush is fully pressed home. Could the new right hand half-shaft be obstructing or preventing the original left hand shaft from entering the differential to the same extent as previously? Should I grind down the inboard end of the half-shaft to give the required end float? Unfortunately, I didn't measure the new and old half-shafts to ensure they were the same length, and since the RHS is fully built up, I'm reluctant to strip it again. Has anybody got any idea what is causing my problem, please, and how to resolve it? Many thanks, in advance, for lots of good suggestions. Mike

Rob, many thanks. I'm obviously going blind!

Having had a Jag in between bouts of madness I'm sure you won't have misplaced your toolbox!

I'm rebuilding the front hubs on my 1991 110 CSW, and the 1987 Defender Parts Catalogue shows a variety of shims inside the final circlip, Page 421, item 19, part nos. FRC6782 - FRC6790. I can't find any info on what the end float should be that requires these shims for adjustment. The LR Workshop Manual is totally silent on them. Please can somebody help me? Many thanks. Mike

Please can you tell me the part number for the "bent wire" type of front brake pad anti-vibration spring. It doesn't appear to be in the 1987 Defender Parts Catalogue. Many thanks, Mike

For a number of years I've had a round magnet hanging from the Power steering reservoir cap and immersed in the fluid. Every so often I remove the cap and wipe the magnet with a clean shop towel. Every time it leaves a black smear, although the clean fluid is red. This tells me it's removing something. Likewise, I've got neo magnets mounted on all drain plugs - both diffs, g'box, t'box, engine - and every time there's an oil change I'm amazed at the amount of grey/black paste that these accumulate. Mike

If they achieve anything near their asking price what does it say about the local alternatives? http://wwwb.autotrader.ca/result/addetailinfo.aspx?srcID=5&frnID=23080215&gclid=CM2X3ZfN-8YCFUFufgodlaoGNg Mike

Thanks, guys, for all your responses, but I'm an electronic nerd, and am totally confused. What I want to achieve is a sat-nav which directs me to city and street addresses, just like my ten year old TomTom does, but to which I can input my own maps, and use off-road. What hardware and software do I need to achieve this functionality? Mike

Hi, It's nearly 10 years since I bought my TOM TOM 700, and I know there have been big advances since then. So, I'm planning to get a replacement, but WHAT? I want to be able to input my own maps and use it off road. The Tom Tom only recognises being on road, and there is no facility for inputting custom maps. Should I be looking at a dedicated lap-top, a tablet, or something like a Garmin? And what software should I look at, so that I can input my own maps and use standard, possibly pre-installed maps? All your thoughts, views and experiences will be very much appreciated, and many thanks in advance. Mike

Going back to the OP, I've had a terrible experience with Delphi lift pumps over the last couple of years. Having done something like 200 K kms, with the original pump, I then had to fit two replacements within 6 months - about 30K kms total. When I suffered failures I just re-routed the extended fuel lines to the electric pump I now have permanently installed. The FIP doesn't seem to have noticed any difference, BUT - I may live to regret this assumption!! Mike

I know it isn't Fleabay, but just look at these hopefuls! http://wwwb.autotrader.ca/cars/land%20rover/defender%20110/bc/vancouver/?prx=100&prv=British+Columbia&loc=Vancouver%2c+BC&sts=New-Used&hprc=True&wcp=True Mike

It isn't only B***part items that leave much to be desired. I recently had to replace the front RH half-shaft and CV joint on my 1991 110 CSW. The original parts that I removed were stamped "Hardy Spicer Ltd. GB GKN A098C3027 EMA2 02 12 6 91 B". I ordered from Paddocks part number FTC1332G, at premium cost, which is listed as a Hardy Spicer unit. However, there is no marking anywhere on the parts of who is the manufacturer. The new parts are nothing like the visual quality of the originals. Either they are not Hardy Spicer genuine parts, or Hardy Spicer is too embarrassed to admit that they produced the parts! Anyway, since my options for return are limited, I'll fit the new bits, ans keep my fingers crossed! Mike

OK. Thanks, all, for your thoughts. I'll put the new seal in to keep water out, i.e. flat face towards the engine block. Mike

I've just had fitted a recon R380 from Ashcrofts, but being located in BC, Canada, it wasn't worth returning my old box to recover the core charge. I made arrangements for a similar box to be supplied from within UK. So, I now have a failed R380 in the shop, taking up space. I hadn't considered rebuilding it myself, but from this thread it seems to be doable by the average Landy owner, who must be reasonably mechanically minded, otherwise they wouldn't have a Landy, so where should I go for the necessary replacement parts to ensure that they are not made of Chinese cheese? Mike

The seal can only be pressed in from the inside of the front cover. Am I correct in my thinking that the flat face of the seal should be on the side that is being "protected" from the fluid that is being contained? It appears that the old seal in my front cover was installed to keep water out, not oil in. Mike