Troll Hunter

EJP, I think you've nailed it! They don't let the facts get in the way of ignorance. Mike

OK, job done, on that side, anyway. The problem I had was that I'd put the shaft too far into the diff so that the brass bush didn't seat in the stub axle, and when I fitted the drive member the circlip groove was not accessible. I've done this job a number of times over the years, to replace oil seals or bearings, and have never had a problem. Just lucky, I suppose. Of course, when I looked at the WSM it says to keep the half shaft out of the stub axle to the end of the splines. Don't you just hate it when it's all in the book and you've missed it!! Thanks again for your help and suggestions. So, just the left side to do now. Mike

OK, senses are gradually returning. Yes, I removed the half shaft by refitting the drive flange and lovingly caressing it with my lump hammer. It seems that the problem stemmed from me being too enthusiastic in seating the half shaft into the diff. It went too far in. As I found out later, by reading the maintenance manual - OMG, don't they make you sick - that it was covered there. I don't know how many times I have replaced bearings or oil seals, but I have never had this problem before. My guess is that I was just lucky. Section 64, page 7, para 63: To ensure proper engagement, grasp the stub axle with one hand and with the other pull the axle shaft into the bush. The shaft and bush are correctly engaged when the end of the axle shaft splines are flush with the end of the stub axle. This condition must be maintained during all ensuing assembly operations. So, many thanks for your patience and suggestions, next time I might just try reading the manual! Mike

OK. Problem solved. I got the shaft out by removing the axle shaft, refitting the drive member and circlip, and then gently caressing it with my lump hammer. Sorry, I'm suffering from juvenile g'children ATM Mikie

Thanks for the words of advice. Yes, I'm trying to pull the shaft out enough to get the shims and circlip on. It looks as if I should drop the diff, once I get the shaft out, and check for any wear or damage there! Oh ****! I'll post how I get on. Mike

The one bolt from my miscellaneous bolt tin appears to be an M10 x 1.25. It certainly has a finer thread than a 1.5. and, it is not the correct thread for the CV joint shaft. I only have thread gauges for metric and SAE threads, so if it's anything else I can't identify it. Anyway, I did wind it in and gave it a pull, resulting in the thread on the bolt stripping. I'm now stripping down the other side to see if I can tap the seized CV shaft through with a long piece of ground down 15mm re-bar. Mike

Sorry,guys, poor wording on my part. Yes, I meant on the outboard end of the CV joint. I want to do exactly what Maverick described, pull the shaft out a shade to get the circlip on. I've got an M10 x 1.25 bolt to grip, but it's not the right size, and I don't want to damage the internal thread and make it unusable. Mike

Please, can somebody tell me the internal thread, outboard of the of the CV joints, of the front prop-shafts? Mike

Wherever the problem is found, when it's found, it would still be a good idea to feed your headlamps via relays, two for each side. Use the existing supply cables, via the switch, to operate the relays, each side connected in parallel, and run a new, fused supply, on heavy cable, to feed the relays and hence the headlamps. The heavy cable will ensure minimum cable voltage drop and maximum voltage at the lamps, and hence maximum illumination. Mike

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only klutz who does stupid things, but there, I suppose we all are, 'cos we're all running Land Rovers! Mike

I've fitted my two extra grease nipples, but my great idea does not work. And neither does the original GKN design if the cavity at the end of the splines was supposed to hold grease and allow it to pass up all the splines. For some reason there is a hole in the membrane at the bottom of the splined section. It looks as if there's a complete seal, but there isn't. When I tried pumping grease in all that happened was that it partially filled the void behind the hole. I could have kept on pumping until I emptied my grease gun. I confirmed the leak by cleaning out all the grease in the cavity and then adding some diesel. It quickly drained into the other section of the prop shaft, but didn't drain out. So, there's no way to lubricate the splines without stripping the sections apart and doing it manually, literally. Mike

I wasn't aware that there are two sizes, but I don't think that I have the wrong size since I fitted RTC3291 last month with no trouble at all. Also, I have successfully fitted one pair of cups, ie half of the UJ, with their retaining circlips, without any problem. But, I have just found my problem. Having been ever so careful fitting the cups over the pegs, I still managed to displace one of the roller bearings and this was preventing the cup going fully home. I've just stripped it all down again and refitted the cups, and there's no problem now. Please accept my apologies for wasting time, and thank you for your suggestions. Mike

Ah! Thanks, Mike. That probably explains why I haven't had a reply from Bailley Morris. I've decided to drill, tap and fit an additional grease nipple that supplies grease directly to the storage chamber at the inboard end of the female section. In fact, I'll fit two new nipples, 180 degrees apart, so as not to upset the prop shaft balance. This should ensure that grease can get all round the circumference and lubricate the entire splined section. Do you see any problems with this, please? Mike

Many thanks for this info, and now that I've given the splines a good clean I can confirm that the disbonding material is a thin plastic layer. It appears to be only the one spline that is significantly affected, so I'm planning on continuing to use this shaft. But I am now facing another problem. I'm attempting to replace the rear UJ in the front prop shaft. I've got part no. RTC3291, which appears to be the correct part, according to the Paddocks site, although they also stock RTC3458, which is the part given in my parts manual. I chose the RTC3291 because it has a grease nipple and the other one is a no-greaser. However, the RTC3291, which came in a GKN box, is 1.2mm larger across its diameter than the old UJ that I've removed. This means that I can't fit the second circlip. Has anybody come across this problem before, and if so, how did you solve it? The caps have an end thickness of about 3mm, so would grinding 0.6mm off each cap be acceptable? Last month I used a RTC3291 to replace the rear UJ in my rear prop shaft and there was no problem with dimensions. In the photo above, the old UJ is on the left, measuring 74.46mm top to bottom, and the new one is on the right, measuring 75.38mm top to bottom. All and any help will be gratefully received. Mike

Western, Is Bailley Morris the manufacturer of LR prop shafts? I've sent them a query regarding prop shaft lubrication, but have not had a reply after one weekend. Mike Sorry, after one week! Mike

As Nigelw said, Post #14. More money, more time, more frustration, more SWMBO aggro, and eventually more satisfaction than you could ever have imagined. Also, more admiration from your mates, or so I am told, 'cos my project is far from complete! Mike PS. Welcome the the B E S T forum for sound technical advice and helpful members who are very tolerant of the principle that "no question is a stupid question". We are all learning! Mike

I don't understand how this topic has gone so sideways. In posts 9, 12 and 14 we were talking about drilling through the nut, a couple of small diameter holes, and then using a chisel to split the nut, and now we're talking about drilling out the whole bolt diameter! Where did we lose track of the objective - to separate the nut from the bolt? Usually a couple of small diameter holes are easier to drill than something considerably larger diameter. Mike

My starter went on the blink intermittently, initially just a click, and on the next turn of the key it started normally, and it deteriorated to not starting at all. My first action was to remove the starter and clean all electrical connections, specially the earth strap from the chassis, and that seemed to fix it. No problems in the last three months. Mike

Your honesty and openness are a beacon to others. We have twin grandsons, 22 yr old, and one has been diagnosed as schizophrenic and the other suffers from psychosis and anxiety attacks. Last summer I had them both read your thread, starting in May 2013, and at the end they both admitted that they no longer felt that they were alone, that it had never happened to anyone else. Thank you. Now, the schizophrenic one is out of hospital and is learning to function on his own, as a young adult, and the other one is taking "chill pills", and is also able to get on with his life. It is overcoming the perceived stigma of an "embarrassing" illness that is the first, and highest, step to be climbed, and your forthright and open account of your "black dogs" has been a huge help to both of them. Thank you, again, and we wish you every success in your ongoing struggle. Mike

I've had this on two occasions. The first was a delaminated air inlet hose to the turbo causing a "baloon" blockage in the flexible air inlet line whenever I tried to get power - tickover was fine but no revs and mega smoke when I tried to drive, and the other was when the intercooler outlet hose had come off, again allowing steady tickover but no power and massive smoke when I tried to get any power. Both were cases of too much fuel and not enough air. Best of luck finding your smokey gremlin. Mike

I'm surprised at some of the views above regarding distance detail, and probably facial recognition. A while ago this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89394&hl=%2Bwindscreen+%2Bcameras seemed to show that there were windscreen cams that the stored image could be zoomed to read reg plates at a considerable distance, and these weren't mega bucks. Do w/s cameras operate on a different technology, or were the ones demonstrated in the posts exceptions? Mike

The above response, #4, is one of the wonderful things about this forum. Members are always ready to help others with information and advice, and everyone, from novice to expert, has something of value to contribute. I'm so happy to be a member, and long may this help and be helped attitude continue. Mike

FWIW I've got an after market 14" o.d. wheel, not sure if it's a Momo or Moto or Mama Mia - it's got an M on the centre boss - but the biggest benefit is that it is SOoooo much easier to get in and out of the driver's seat without the steering wheel rim against my thighs, and with power steering the reduced diameter is no problem. Mike

As above, drill and chisel is the way to go, and save your rim. A new bolt/stud and nut, and away you go. Mike

Many thanks for the new info and for the link. My front prop doesn’t appear to have the same configuration as that shown in the Bailey Morris web site. My shaft is in the almost closed position (shortest), at least when in the shop, with only about 1/8” of the male splines showing. Does anybody know how much the splines move in practice? Presumably the maximum would be during extreme articulation, or perhaps when fully loaded. When I inject grease through the grease nipple I almost immediately get clean grease coming out of the splines. When I compare the volume of grease exiting the splines for a single stroke of my grease gun with that pumped from the grease gun when not connected to the grease nipple, the volumes appear to be the same. I know this is not very scientific, but it seems to indicate that no grease is getting to the storage chamber at the inboard end of the female splines, and hence the entire circumference of the splines are not receiving grease. Does anybody have any suggestions how to ensure the entire spline area can be greased, without removing and disassembling the prop shaft at every service interval? I think I'll direct this query to Bailey Morris, and I'll post their response, assuming I get one. Mike