Troll Hunter

Fed up with trying to read a tape measure while holding both ends to check the tracking on my Defender, while lying beneath it, I made up the tool in the attached file. This allows me to concentrate on one thing at a time. I can adjust the tool length using a small screw driver, until I get it to the exact distance between my wheel rim edges, one full turn giving 1mm change in length. I can then get out from beneath the beast to measure the tool length, and concentrate on getting an accurate measurement, without worrying that there will be any change in length of the tool. I am finding that this gives me good repeatability and is far easier than trying to read the tape measure when it is bent where it touches the wheel rim. Track measurement tool.pdf Mike

Hi, Sorry, but I'm having either a blonde or a blind moment and need adult guidance! My vehicle is a 1991 110 CSW and I'm replacing the three TREs, but cannot find the adjustment procedure or details anywhere in the LR WSM or in the Tech Archive. I've got the toe-out spec (1.19 - 2.38 mm), and dimensions provided by Western (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82292), but what is the correct set up procedure to follow, please? Should I first set the track rod to give the necessary toe out, and then set the steering tube adjustable end to fit, checking the toe out again to ensure that it has not changed? If not, what should I do? Any and all advice will be very much appreciated. Mike

Sorry to pull up an old thread, but how was this problem finally resolved? What was causing the original problem with the gauge reading? Mike

Right, thank you all for your responses. it's to be the two part bush, probably SuperPro, since I don't have, or have access to, a press. My piggy bank had been building up toward one, but my bench vise finally died yesterday, so I bought a new 4" jobby this morning. I can't manage diddly squat without a vise. Mike

Thanks, Maverick. This was the most important question, as the right manufacturer but the wrong fitment would not be so good! It looks as if the two part bushes will be easier to fit than the single piece Metalastik ones, which appear to have an outer metal sheath. Any comments, please? Mike

From various accounts on the forum over a number of years it appears that 300Tdi engines vary considerably. My engine, for example, will continue raising the EGT well above the 725 Deg C limit if I keep in too high a gear going up hill, although the boost pressure will still be up. Other reports indicate that the EGT never gets anywhere near 725 Deg C. Since the EGT gauge is critical in my situation I have relocated the fuel gauge to a Mudstuff auxiliary dash and put the 52mm VDO EGT gauge dead centre. After all, you don't normally need to look at your fuel gauge more than every couple of hours and your EGT can rocket in less than a minute. My gauge is a straight forward indicator, and I chose it because it matches the other LR gauges. However, electronic, multi-function models are available, where alarms can be set and which have memory functions. One of these may be more appropriate for your purposes. Mike

OK, thank you. It looks like SuperPro or Metalastik, but what's the answer to the first question: On the Paddocks site NRC9728 is not available, and on the LRSeries site ANR3410 is returned when NRC9728 is requested. Does this mean that the two part numbers are interchangeable? Mike

Sorry, I should have had it in the OP, but similar questions regarding the anti roll bar ball joint, part no. NTC1888, and the anti roll bar bushes, part no. 552819. What manufacturers are recommended, please? Mike

Hi, All, I need to replace my panhard bushes and I need some experience/recommendations, please. I have a 1991 110 CSW, with a 300Tdi, which is used mostly on tarmac, but also does some significant mileage on unsurfaced and forestry roads of variable quality, and usually fairly well loaded (camping). According to the LR 1987 One Ten Parts Manual, p.435, the part no. for my vehicle is NRC9728, and for later vehicles it is ANR3410. On the Paddocks site NRC9728 is not available, and on the LRSeries site ANR3410 is returned when NRC9728 is requested. Does this mean that the two part numbers are interchangeable? On the Paddocks site, for ANR3410, I see one and two piece bush sets, by various manufacturers - Metalastik, Floflex, SuperPro, Britpart and unnamed. What is the general view on 1 part versus 2 part sets, and which manufacturer should I use/avoid? Many thanks in advance. Mike

According to Wiki.... (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid) "Spirit of salt" is hydrochloric acid - every bit as unpleasant as caustic soda. I hope your plumber was using a dilute solution and appropriate safety protection. Mike

HI, All, Thanks for the input. You're absolutely right, Aragorn, I haven't experimented with enough search terms, and using the input of your ebay search I did find an advert for a VW Jetta electrical heater. It looks as if I might be in luck after all. And, Lewis, many thanks for your kind offer, but it looks as if I can find one over here after all. Mike

Thanks for your reply, David. I had looked on eBay.com, but can't find anything over about 200 watt on 12 volt. I suppose that I could put in a bank of 5 or 6, wired in parallel. One benefit of that configuration would be a degree of flexibility in physical arrangement to achieve specific dimensions, and also variable heat output. There doesn't appear to be anything available like the units mentioned in earlier posts. As you say, availability seems to have moved on, but I'll keep searching this side of the pond, and I may get lucky, maybe on an air cooled Asian roller skate. Mike

Hi, All, In Simonr's post #41, if there's not enough alternator output at tick over, what about fitting a smaller pulley on the alternator? Still on the subject of PTC heater elements, since Citroen and Pugs are not common ever here, does anybody know of a vehicle available in N. America that uses a PTC element, please? Mike

And don't forget that a snorkel isn't just a good idea for wading. It's a very good idea for reducing dust ingestion to the air filter/engine. If you do a lot of unsurfaced road mileage a snorkel can be your engine's best friend in keeping fine dust out of the system. Mike

"Factory set" and "lubricated for life" are two of the biggest lies of the auto industry. Don't trust either of them, and always go back to the instruction manual, if available, for adjusting settings yourself. As for the "lubricated for life" items, they're a bit more difficult, because they usually don't have any means of owner lubrication. Avoid them if you can. Mike

Wiki covers axial engines here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axial_engine and the Duke engine is covered.

I've fitted three new diesel lift pumps, all Delphi, in the last couple of years, and none of them seemed to work using the hand lever, regardless of engine crank position, and even when tried before fitting to the engine. I've just done as Maverick says, and let the running engine pull fuel through. Mike

Slightly off topic but if you get axles galved how do you protect the machined surfaces? Are you restricted to hot or cold spray galv treatments, as mentioned above by Jocklandjohn, as opposed to hot dip galv? Mike

A thread on your rebuild would be a good addition to the Tech Archive since every job throws up new problems and new solutions. Mike

In response to Aragorn's comment about synthetic oil in older engines, post #17, I was told that one reason it isn't recommended is that it tends to clean all the engine internals far better than non-synthetic oils, resulting in greater clearances and higher oil consumption, as well as shrunken seals. In my 30Tdi I run 100% synthetic, 5W-40 in the winter and 15W-40 in the summer, usually Shell Rotella, with no ill effects. Mike

Thanks for giving me the benefit of your experiences. Rustoleum sounds good to me, especially as it's relatively cheap. I've no idea what the original LR paint was. Mike

Hi, All, I'm planning to give my 25 year old wheels a make-over involving sand blasting and then "painting". But what "paint" system should I use? Should I consider galving - hot dip or cold spray-on, powder coating, a two pack epoxy, Hammerite, POR15, or something else? I'm hoping to end up with Ivory White, but I'm not looking for good as new or bling, just to preserve them for another 20+ years. All thoughts, ideas and recommendations will be very much appreciated. Mike

I had a similar problem on my 1991 110 CSW, and my knee made a good bending tool! Also, I repositioned the latch striker plate to hold the door further into the frame. Because of the plastic spacers this seems to slip quite regularly and needs resetting every few weeks. Mike

As Gren_T said, get the manuals. This forum has an excellent selection of downloadable ones at: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731 A lot cheaper than using beer tokens! Mike

I don't know if this is available in UK,but it's made exactly for your needs. http://epoxyinternational.com/window-defroster-and-grid-line-repair-kit-adhesive Mike