Adam001

I'm sure a TDV6 or TDV8 in a defender would be great...if you could afford to fit it.

No Doubt the LS engines are great for packaging as they are elegantly simple. But I would rather the complexity and challenge of the DOHC engines with VVT and take the benefits from them. I have a little experience of racing LS engines and they are great at it, but mostly because the materials are quite exotic and they can take alot of abuse, but I don't really need that in a road car. Can't say I'm sold on the efficiency side of it, I've been amazed at the economy of the 335 from a drive in one, don't think I've ever seen anything powered by a LS to see anything like it. Not trying to be anti 'LS' as I think the engine is great, for racing. But there are good reasons why manufacturers left that technology a while ago. Ferdinand Porsche would disagree

Can-of-worms ...... OPENED Presuming by 'Chevy' we are talking the older generation iron block 4.0" bore engines, these were designed in what...1970....that's old, and not a fair comparison. For a all rounder car I'm sorry to say but without a LPG conversion a single cam V8 by any manufacturer is never going to be reasonable to run! If we are talking LS engines then they may have lots of power but they are both horrendously priced and still pitiful MPG. Either way, these engines have their place, but not what I would call a fair example in a petrol vs diesel debate.

Worth bearing in mind that Rover / Chevy V8 options don't really give petrol any credibility, lets be honest they are old! If you consider say a german or Japanese lump in comparison then it's a much better argument, especially if you compare them to a TD5 (Price for price). I've just gone Petrol from Diesel in mine and I won't be going back. You still need a reasonably large petrol though, anything under 2.5L is going to struggle at low RPM unless it's got a turbo attached to it. Oh and cost wise, I'm currently equaling the TDI on MPG, so it's actually costing me less to run.

Efficiency my friend If I dropped a M3 engine in, it would still be the same. Argument holds true, for 70% of driving / idling / cruising etc we are all using exactly the same amount of power But yes, I like to protect my little one

My petrol is lovely and easy to cool :-) but I guess that's the benefit of going modern! No point to my thread other than to brag :-p

Smart choice, you could see the 110 only being off the road for a weekend then

Potentially £1000 on a non-galved bulkhead! I almost want to cry on your behalf!

If I were to do it in situ you have 1 major upside, you can use the car as a Jig when you do the posts, that way you are guaranteed for it to fit when you re-assemble. The downside is doing a proper job on the footwell will be difficult with the engine / pedals in the way, but that depends how comprehensive you are being. But as you say if you plan to do a rebuild in say 5/10 years then maybe a decent repair will be all it needs for now.

I bought a second hand TD5 bulkhead for mine which had been galvanised off ebay, mine was problem free and was quite cheap (relatively speaking, cost £385). If you're not desperate for one now, might just be worth keeping an eye out for one My personal opinion whatever option you choose is hard work and whichever option you take a galvanism finish should be the target!

Welcome Brownchurch, Flatdog, Safety Devices, Masai, Hannibal, Frontrunner, Rhino and Patriot There's a starter for 10 I currently have a Land Rover OEM roof rack on mine. When I replace it (long time yet, it's great!) I'll get a flat rack aluminium one.

Or you can drive on worn components and just have a little mechanical sympathy. My drivetrain has 295'000 miles on it without any failures, I'm not about to go out and replace everything because of a little transmission slack... But to answer the OP. No the Puma does not have 'sacrificial' components. It's just a case that the outer splines are prone to wear if not properly serviced which I would suggest is the case with only 50'000 miles on. The inner splines are constantly oil lubricated which is far better than the grease.

I looked for 2.8-3L when I filled mine up. I have a Mocal 10Row cooler mounted vertically with a P38 oil cooler block (it has a thermostat). I filled the gearbox up to the level, nipped it up then pulled a pipe off the top of the cooler and filled it up.

That is a awful lot of money for something doing a simple job which freely allows moisture ingress. Simple and elegant yes, effective, not so much. I also can't see those little plastic levers putting much force on the wires compared to a crimp. Junction points I swear by proper well fluxed soldering on a large crimp connector. Lots of people hate soldering, but that's because of dry soldering. I have never had a joint fail. Having said this though, they would be great for test boards!

Like it, I'll buy one of those!

It's the master cylinder, repair kits can be fine so long as there is no internal corrosion on the bore.

I don't, no, LS engines typically use iridium or minimum of a double platinum which run off different voltages. Iridium for example actually needs less than copper due to the smaller electrode So in theory LS coils on a rover V8 copper plug could underpower them. Best googling the voltages for both engines, it might not be a issue.

Could be tempted to fit one myself, how do they fit?

Think it's fair to say you cannot drive it. But on another note, even if you buy the car blind off ebay, you are still protected under trading rights. You can easily just throw it back at him due to it being mis-sold. Adam

£6 vs £43 I'm going to try and find the genuine one somewhere cheaper!

Side note, MTF94 is a better oil for the R380, the LT77 takes ATF

Bob....what have you bought??!?

Keep the testers on your good side, seeing a incomplete engine is never going to win any prizes

I wouldn't advise it, it won't slip off but it is there to protect it Cancel the MOT, put it back together then re-book the MOT

I've only done one measured fill up, all on back roads and it got 17. But that's false as I have a open air filter at the moment, thermostat was faulty (running around 60C), dodgy lambda and a intake leak. Got all the bits to sort the issues, just a lack of time! So in truth I don't really know what it'll get!