Maverik

I've still got the original S suffix block, as I had a spare disco unit that's the one that got sent to Turner's, they kept it and sent me an off the shelf unit. If I'm rebuilding another block I might as well just dismantle the one I've got till I find the problem, most cost/time effective solution just now. Swapping a block is not exactly difficult but it's time intensive.

I had some feedback from Richard Turner this morning, he mentioned dry crank seals, he said you wouldnt hear worn thrust bearings like that - you just get a lot of end float. I'll be borrwoing a dial guage to check the end float. Next plan will be to remove the timing chest fully, see if there's anything obvious, then I'll drop the sump see if there's anything amiss in there. Deep sigh, this isnt going to happen quickly now, I've pretty much run out of steam, luckily managed to get a car from work which has taken the pressure off. How nice would it be to re-power with a super efficient quiet petrol engine...

The pipework is indeed very narrow, it wont take much to block it - i'd pull the pipe section apart and make sure each seciton is clear - also worth checking the pump too, have you tried just pulling of the fuel connection as it goes into the burner and to see if its actually pumping fuel through? - the Webasto/Ebaspacher are pretty intelligent units, and they do lock themselves somtimes, you might have to do a hard reset by pulling one of the power fuses out etc and leaving for a period of time - there's loads of instruction manuals for these units online.

I wonder what I can see if I drop the sump, stupid ladder frame in the way. I've actually had an off the wall idea, I might just rip the stupid thing out and put in a 300.

Didn't sound like that area, I rebuilt the pump I had with new gears in November. Can't see how it would link to the clutch influencing the sound.

If only this chap closed this out... Huh, wrong end he's talking about his clutch release bearing by the nd if it.

Yes 100%, not ancillary. Yes, there is little to no end float on the crank, you can't see it move with the clutch pedal depressed, but you can manually shift it holding onto the damper and push pulling it. Yes noise does sound the same. With engine hot after driving it was really noisy at idle, turn engine off, restart no noise initially but then you hear it develop, if you very lightly engage the clutch e.g. so the release bearing is just touching the clutch plate (so not fully engaged) you hear the tone of the noise change. No stethoscope. I was under it yesterday when it was noisy and the sound is coming from the front sump area, you hear the oil pump ticking and its to the front of that. I think the noise is there all the time but when revved the engine noise covers the squeal.

50 miles test drive and the noise is back. This time I can see that the timing belt hasn't moved from the position I set it yesterday, so I can finally rule that out as being the issue. I'm starting to get a dreaded feeling it's a engine thrust bearing or main bearing issue I'm hearing...

Sooo, a tedious morning ensued. Timing chest cover on, crank damper on and torqued tight, start engine and it starts screaming. - not expected. So I take the cover back off, reinstall and torque up the damper again and run the engine... silent... Que the head scratching moment... Inspected the cover crank dust seal, looks like new - corteco lip seal, so I popped it out and put in a carp britpart thing that came with the gasket kit I had. Put it all back together and it's silent once again... I can't seem to post up the video of the noise but I can't get my head around how how a simple lip seal can make so much noise, and for no apparent reason. I can't say I'm all that confident this has solved the problem... time will tell.

Could it be TE108061L - scrub that - I think thats the FIP mounting studs - how about TE110051L - looks a bit more like what you need?

Just shy of 200 squid to get a genuine from LR. - I was lucky enough to find the FIP pulley on ebay for 50.

Pulleys arrived, one on the left is genuine, the one on the right is turners supply country of origin- China. It's as rough and your granny's chin, the oil seal land is rough, pretty unimpressed same pish as the crank pulleys. If turners are building these into engines it's pretty shocking. I won't be putting this in my truck.

Its shown on this picture - not quite sure whats its for is it not part of the tensioner assembly...

I don't think so. Richard Turner had some choice words for those kits, I've not seen one in the flesh but apparently they weren't up to the job they were created for.

Its not ragged but is has started to wear the body where it was rubbing the lip on the tensioner. see crude cross section drawing, the dashed part has started to wear away.

So having had a interesting chat with my Dad and talking throughsome things, he's mentioned something not considered yet, that the timing/crank pulleys themselves could be adversely worn... I'd not really considered it but after looking at the FIP pulley (attached), I can see that could be part of the problem... I've seen a lot worse but i've already demonstrated it seems to take precious f-all to influance the running of the belt. So ordered new FIP/cam pulleys... if I can get away without bodging with a shim then I'll try it.

Think it was just a dirt mark.

I thought about about that - had a similar experience on a ships propeller actually - but in this situation the locator hole onto the dowl is pretty loose fitting, its not like a close fit really for example you can tilt the back plate when its on the dowel. - good thought though.

Yes, I'll hopefully get her back together tomorrow. I'm interested to see what the belt does when hot, hopefully the inspection hole will work.

I've got 3 tensioners, 1x genuine, 1x OEM and 1x britpart - the pictures attached are the OEM and Genuine. But the way the clamp work, it only clamps the bit of plate under the actual wheel, the rest of the plate just sits and doesn't obscure. I ran all 3 tensioners one after the other with exactly the same setup and they all let the belt run about 1.5mm off the outer edge of the FIP pulley, as seen here.

Ruled this out, as I changed this when the noise happend last time, new belt, tensioner, crank pulley and the noise came back the same after about ~1500 miles. I've wracking my brains to try think of what could cause such a nasty noise, other than the belt side loading the tensioner more than it should - only thing could be is a bearing in the FIP, but the noise wasn't coming from the FIP and its been rebuilt recently, so I find that unlikely.

Yeah I've got a dial/bar type torque wrench coming tomorrow, this is what I used originally, and what I'll use to do a final set-up. I've had the belt on and off 8 times at least and I didn't see variation in the tensioner torque change the position of where the belt ran on the tensioner, the only thing that changed the position was altering the angle of the pulley slightly (using spacers). This incidently allowed the belt to run in a better location on all the pulleys not just on the tensioner.

The noise is 100% from the front end, it's a really nasty screeching. - but not metal on metal. But I also 100% agree with you, I can't get my head around why it's making such a terrible noise. It did first start after I removed the engine but that is also isn't a given in my mind unfortunately. It was an 8 hours (500 mile) drive to the location I took the engine out could easily have just been at the point where belt wear had started to cause the noise. Yeah I've been running it on and off all day without the cover on as per my previous post content, I couldn't get it to squeal, but the engine was cold so I'm not that suprised. A bolt misaligned etc. I don't think so, the noise would be constant, not just appear after 1500 miles.

Had a big head scratch and decided to play with offsetting the tensioner, so I sacrificed my feeler gauge for the cause, started with 0.5mm and went down every 0.1mm, I ran the engine on the starter to see each time where the belt ran on the tensioner. I stuck the feeler to the case with a bit of silicone, running it on the starter 0.1mm spacer seemed enough to centre the belt, but on running the engine the belt ran on the outer edge again, soo replacing the spacer to 0.3mm bounced the belt to the inner lip, with the engine running, so back to 0.2mm and the belt wasn't quite central on the tensioner, but after half a minute of running/revving, the belt sat about 0.15mm off the inner lip of the tensioner. So that is how I plan to set it. After a suggestion by Richard Turner, I've also drilled a 1/8npt inspection holes on the top of the chest so I can see where the belt is running on the FIP pulley. The npt tap hasn't arrived so can't finish it quite yet. I've also taken some reference pictures of what the belt looks like in different locations.

Been a long day. So this is what I found when I opened her up... all in all, not a great deal... The belt was just starting to wear on the outer edge, you can feel a slight lip forming. So checked the cam pulley, all seemed as expected, had a play with the FIP pulley there is some end-float but couldn't feel any side to side motion.