Maverik

If you think about it you should get very little oil leak from the missing valve seal - as the manifolds the valves run through are always positive pressure so you in theory should have more issue of pressure leakage into the rocker space.

Tell me about it. - the crank pulley did look "dry" when I pulled it off the crankshaft, so I guess it is conceivable partially dry seal was squeaking - I have to admit its stretching my imagination but it did sound like a rubber squeak type noise. I actually feel quite hopeful if I don't think to hard about it... the more I think the more my hope swishes out the window... - and I'm putting off the test drive - ha, I'll take her out after the next TEAMS meeting...

It looked like a small "tag" off the outer seal material has puckered on a burr when installing, I had a look at it and it didn't look like it was causing any issue to the sealing lips.

So opted not to remove the chest. I decided to tap the crank pulley oil seal back into its seat a further 1mm or so then charged the inner lip with some grease and a small amount on the inner pulley face too and popped it all back together. Didn't make a noise on final startup, but it was doing that before so I'll take it for a hot run tomorrow and see what happens.

Well suffice to say my hopes are dashed once again as no smoking gun here... All looks pretty normal... deep sigh. Just debating on what removing the timing chest might tell me, if anything.

I think it was the front cover seal which I did replace on the last opening. - I didn't manage to remove the timing pulley last time as it was sticking, I've now got a puller so hopefully remove it...

You dont hang about... - I like that 😁 - Mk1 panel looks pretty good out the box, nice work.

So I'm on the cusp of diving back into the engine bay either this afternoon or tomorrow. and I've got a firm target to look at - its going to be to change out the timing pulley oil seal. After having a good bit of time to mull and think over, I've got a few points which is hopefully pointing to a badly seated oil seal contacting the inner face of the timing pulley, an interestingly I sent the video file I made of the noise to an old landy mate and before I'd even mentioned my thoughts he came to the same conclusion. In addition to this I remember when I installed the seal on this engine I actually purchased the correct LR seal installation tool for this job, when I used it I remember thinking that the seal wasn't quite seated as I'd expected it would be, but as I used the correct LR tool for it I just carried on. - where previously I usually just tap the seals in until flush. So all in all I've regained a bit of hope I might actually get this sorted without removing the engine again... we will see - at least its given me a bit of inspiration to go in again -watch this space.

That looks tidy - might also be worth checking you've got the height in the recess to get the other part of the hinge lined up to then slide onto the pin. 😁 - I love this kind of creativity.

That looks good - how well does the hinge sit into the recess?

It looks pretty good - for comparison have you got a pic of the steel equivalent to hand to compare against?

Not use a brush? I found a chisel shaped oil painting brush perfect for applying grease in fine places.

well spotted!

I think its a standard metric - easiest way is get something like an M5 or M6 set screw and lie them next to each other and see of they mesh. This is somthign thats bigged me for a long time too, but never got around to making any! - make I'll have dibs on any spares you make up

I pinged the ebay ad the facebook link and he wasnt so happy - he reported it and confirmed it wasnt for breaking.

I used self adhesive velcro, works a treat.

I'm having a welcome break from it to be honest. Work is busy and I've been helping out a mate do some work on my old Black td5 90. I have however had a little time to ponder and recently reading about a 300tdi with a crank timing pulley seal problem, I was struggling to move the crank timing pulley without a puller, I'll get some new seals ready for the timing chest.

Top is non genuine Middle is genuine LR Bottom is non genuine (britpart I suspect)

I've got a box of old 300tdi sprockets I can go measure, let me go have my breakfast and I'll go do it.

Worth speaking to Nige (Hybrid from Hell), I know he provides a gear polishing service at part of his diff rebuild service?

I've got a 1/8npt fitting tapped into the manifold just before the turbo, works ok.

Indeed, can't say it's at the top of my list of culprits...

Well done, I've been running my Webasto without fuel filter for the best part of 8 years I think, the last year it was very unreliable starting. - finally got around to servicing it earlier this year and the burner was full of what looked like petals of carbon/combustion dirt, I can only assume it had burt up additional crud and just kinda blocked the air passages, cleaned - serviced with gaskets and like yours after 1 false start it then started behaving. Been spot on since. I remeber I did try and fit it with a fuel filter at the very begining, but I could never get it bled properly with the filter and it just kept airlocking in the filter.

I think that will be a non return valve, I doubt you'll manage to get air through it, as the principle of how the pump works means it wont free flow.

I've still got the original S suffix block, as I had a spare disco unit that's the one that got sent to Turner's, they kept it and sent me an off the shelf unit. If I'm rebuilding another block I might as well just dismantle the one I've got till I find the problem, most cost/time effective solution just now. Swapping a block is not exactly difficult but it's time intensive.