Maverik

Try whitbread 4x4, they can make anything, very impressive fabrications.

You don't sound awfully inspired by your Truck-lites?

This is great advice, but this has absolutely no content related to the topic of LED headlights... 😁 😉 please lets not go down any road traffic acts rabbit holes 👍

Some good feedback, keep it coming. I made a purchase, its a set of the Lynx type - although not the Britpart ones - I found an alternative supplier on ebay, that look like they're identical bar the "Britpart" marking at the 6 o clock position on the lens - £150 inc postage. - LYNX LED DRL Headlights x2 for Land Rover Defender 7 Inch DOT E9 MARKED 7802C | eBay I find this highly ironic that I could be buying a knock off of a Britpart component. If they're pish they're pish. I'm lucky enough to have my 4 roof rack auxiliary Halogens as a back-up - in the snow, even they build up snow but the heat just about keeps them clear.

How long have you had them installed for?

is that the "Lynx" ones? as pictured?

Another vote for CTEK 5.0 - I've charged all sorts of batteries with it, all land rover type and its done the odd horse box type truck and tractor battery. They seem really good for deeply defunked batteries that other chargers just wont register.

Hi folks, So I'm going to buy some LED headlamps, I've got a short list. I've been through a reasonable number of topics on here and other forums, going into to various rabbit holes etc so I appreciate this topic has been done to death shortly behind tyre choice etc but... I think there is scope for one more topic on the subject as follows. There must be a good number of LED headlight users on here now so I'd like to draw on your direct experience. If you've got 7 inch bowl type sealed LED headlights on your Land Rover, I'd ask you to share some basic info: What are they (name/brand/picture if they're generic Chinese ones - as there are many different lens configurations) Price paid Time you've had them installed User Pro's/Con's/general user comments Thanks you all and looking forward to some responses. Mav

If you just want a few doing there are small machine shops all over that could mill to shape I reckon, if you're handy with a grinder you could also try that, but if it was me, I'd go find somone with a milling machine.

You need to trace where you're getting voltage from, if your +ve switch is ok then you're highly likely getting a weird "back" voltage feeding the light via an earth. with the engine on with the fault showing, I'd start pulling fuses and relays individually - this might give you an indication as to what circuit you've got a fault in - i.e. the fault might have nothing to do with your light or light wiring, its just showing up there. I'd also be looking around the same area that light is earthed for any other circuits that are earthed in the same area of the car.

I've got my Torsen ATB 24 spline with Ashcrodt HD halfshaft in the back of my 90 and now have 10 spine trutrac in the front. Quite simply its awesome. - I read a comment "I don't like the idea of not knowing when an ATB is locking" - this made me smile, as weirdly you just know when the ATB is working, we had a lot of ice here before Christmas and I drove up the lane and I was gobsmacked at how she went up, and you feel the axles locking up when each wheel lost traction. You also hear when they're working - its difficult to describe but when doing slow crawling work, you hear them working. I've had the rear ATB in 3 years and the front just 6 months, wouldn't go back to a truck without ATB's quite simply. Much improved on-road handling and super off-road too. Nige built both diffs, the Trutrac was to my spec. I rattle around the roads and do a greenlane type activities in the truck these days, if it gets to strenuous I reel out the Husky.

I must have missed this when you installed the door card, but for info, I had to do pretty much every small modification you had to do also, its great once its in and sized correctly, but I had to do a good bit of chopping and cropping in the first instance.

I experienced something similar on a 2011 TDCi - Land Rover diagnosed it as a fault with the Turbo and replaced it, it fixed the problem.

Pre td5 the wiring harness came out on the Inside of the chassis rail. Td5 the loom pops out on the outside of the chassis rail

The rear diff is a Haldex unit which has a series of clutch plates integrated into it - its how it works, the reference was to the Haldex clutch plates not the main engine-gearbox clutch.

Toys for people who have nothing better to spend their money on. - how there is a business case for them I'm not entirely sure.

Even factory standard installations suffer - I've repaired countless doors due to the wires in the small rubber tunnel at the door joint just fatigue and break, if there's a partial break or they're still semi touching can give quite random voltage results when testing - I'd definitely be looking quite closely to the section of wiring that jumps between the bulkhead and the door.

Its worth looking for a steel liner I've found they're a bit more resilient for the occasional type use, plastic liners seem to not like it if your wire is a bit dirty or if its old and picked up a little bit of corrosion.

Weirdly I think thats one of the more informative films - give it to someone that doesn't give a fig, has no real interest in off-roading/off-roaders and was in in for a jolly. - Drive it like you stole it comes to mind. I spec'd one from the website yesterday, I'm a tad disappointed I need to buy a house before I can get one of these!

IC engines still get me quite excited!

Still it zaps energy and enthusiasm... after my engine woes at the start of the year, I've still not really recovered my enthusiasm for spannering them, I very nearly sold up and bought a Subaru the other week... I think I'll be selling off a number of LR related projects before completion now. I'll keep 1 as I plan to electrify it, but LR interests are finally starting to wane with me.

On opening up the fuel system, I remember it taking about 5 sets of purges to get the pump primed - but you do here a gentle humm until it picks the fuel then is sucks and gurgles a bit. Now you say you're getting 12v at the connection, but are you getting voltage breakdown on load - common for s poor contact somewhere? when I was diagnosing electrical issues on my van I got a set of "Automotive Break out leads" they allow you to measure the voltage by jumping the connection so you can monitor the voltage - you can actually make some leads up fairly easily. - have you checked the condition of the contacts in the mutliplugs from the bulkhead loom to the chassis loom? Did you also follow up on the earth issue - I remember my father in laws 90 kept stopping a bit like you, and it was an ECU earth under the drivers seat.

That looks like it was a windscreen plate too, you see them sometimes, never seen one on a 200tdi though myself. Also looks like it's broken off.

😅 I was going to say... thanks for the clarification Ralph.