Maverik

I'm taking this as a good omen...

I did torque up as I've always done.

In 3 drives its gone from slight squeek when warm to howling banshee, had to do a trip to Middlesbrough, she got me there and back, got to say it was a rather uncomfortable drive. Got some parts this week so will open her up this weekend, see if I can sort this now one way or another!

Interesting, I'll find something to screw to the pulley and see if there's any play in the pump.

I had very similar when I had a duff lift pump as well as a stack of water in the fuel filter, starts and tocks over fine, but any kind of revs and it dies out. - considering you've just changed some items in the fuel system I'd be going back to those items first. Also as echo'd above these engine will often run without a lift pump - so I'd be thinking blocked or not properly bled filter or faulty lift pump thats not allowing fuel to the FIP. Did the new lift pump come in a ablue box? - you can try dissconect the fuel inlet to the FIP pump )pop of the fuel solenoid connection) then turn the engine over get a jar and see if the lift pump is pumping fuel to the FIP. I'd rule out the fuel issue first then I'd go looking for hose colapses...

Aye, you should be happy with that, it looks tidy, well done.

I've been mulling this over - and reading a few other threads with 200tdi skimming belts - non have reported a sqeeling noise, the belt just usually wears its merry self away... Now I put it a new belt and new tensioner (last time) and the identical squeeling has started again - a small alarm bell has been rung, I think I need to pay more attention to the source of the noise and maybe not just assume its from the belt/tensioner interaction...

Yes it could, but with out trial and error type fixing I can't really answer. Richard tuner suggested run it up with the FIP bracket removed and see what happens - I did try pre tension it when I last did it but I didnt think that did much. Considering how many new parts are used here and the anal way I re-built it, I have no question marks over what I did wrong or parts which are sub standard - its a bit of a head screw. I will however keep having a think as to how I can verify the parellel alignment, if I can do this I can work out what needs fixed... but I might die of old age before I work that out.. So due to everything being so new I'm assuming that I dont have a failed or worn part, but just "some" missaglinment, so I'm going to just try correct the missalignment by influencing what componets I can. 1) FIP mounting can be fiddled, 2) Tensioner position can be fiddled, 3) Look at putting a side wall on the Crank gear. I honestly havent got the effort to rip the whole thing apart again to put back together on the off-chance its corrected the problem, at least if I tweek the tensioner angle I can run up the engine and see that the belt is running an improved track...

I just picked up the phone to Turners and Richard is always pretty helpful. He said he'd seen this before on 200's where the belt obviously wasnt happy - as we've suggest on here it said I should have a play about with the FIP mounting or have a fiddle with the tensioner angle - he mentioned a customer ground a bit off the backing plate to change the angle etc.

I know the belt is runnng off due to the rubber left on the front case, me removing the damper obviously allowed the crank timeing gear to shift slightly which gave a more favourable angle for the belt and it stopped squeeking, putting the damper back on pushed the crank gear tight which then moved the belt angle back. The noise was loud, before I pulled the case off I went at it from a few different angles and it alway sled me back to the front lower part of the engine.

I'm pretty sure nothing changed during the engine removal, it was pretty uneventful, engine out, flywheel/housing off - new gasket back on and in. I do have the old FIP pump still, there nothing stopping me from putting that back on I guess. This is frustrating but I'm really struggling to come up a way of measuring the system out with laser scanning the lot! I would have to agree, the most likely place for any miss alignment is going to be the FIP. I had an idea to grind off the tensioner side wall, then rotate the engine and see if the belt wanted to crawl off. Unfortunately the truck is my only transport just now so any off the road fixing needs to be carefully planned. When I was playing with the belt last time, I fiddle about with the mounting of the FIP pump to see if I could alter how it ran on the pulley, but nothing I did seemed to influence the position of the belt around the system. Just the areas of wear are all prior to the belt hitting the FIP pulley, to me it doesn't make sense that it's the FIP pulley throwing the belt off, when I open it up I might have a play at packing out the tensioner see if I can influence the belt running, it might give me a better indication as to where I need to be looking for a problem. Also ordered a new bolt for fixing the tensioner, figure that could be stretching...

2021-11-19, 178892 miles New turners short block installed Inc timing belt, oil pump, clutch, fuel lift pump. 2022-01-23, 180082 miles Sheaf diesel refurbished fuel injection pump installed (without removing timing belt). 2022-03-07, 181875 miles Removed engine - replace and re-seal rear bellhousing due to oil leak - BELT NOISE first acknowledged on start-up after putting engine back in. 2022-04-02, 182435 miles Opened timing chest, on removing crank damper belt noise stopped, on putting it back on (for test) noise came back. So replaced timing belt, tensioner and crank pulley amd crank damper, re-set FIP pump mounting position, observation - belt seemed to want to run against the outer lip of tensioner which put the belt about 1mm overhang off the FIP pulley. 2022-05-15, 184081 miles Timing belt noise started again after a prolonged driving.

It's evolved it's own crumple zones to keep up with latest legislation... Not an easy place to repair, lots of additional structure in those areas. Good effort.

I've done so much work on this engine the past 10 months I can't remember the order of things off the top of my head, will refer to my wee log book. Suffice to say I replaced the belt, tensioner and lower pulley 4 weeks ago after it started to squeal, now the problem has returned, noisey timing belt.

Let's re visit this picture, if anyone has any epiphanies...

Ok, I'll jury rig a ruler and have a look at the float, to see if it looks excessive. I have a feeling a 300tdi pulley does different dimensions, it is a different profile at either end too you need to put a o ring on the inner side of a 300tdi. Laser tool I don't will really help me here as I have a feeling it's a pulley that out of parallel with the others.

Hmm I'll have a look, need to aquire a dial gauge for that. Having slept on it, whatever angle I come at this from I end up having to dismantle and abstractly start swapping out parts (like I have done already) in the hope that solves my problem. Not an angle I like to pursue. I followed the workshop manual too a T, used genuine parts where I could and used the correct torque tools etc. It's either an over worn part I've not seen or a defect I've not picked up. I was thinking how I could check alignments, bar getting it laser scanned, this won't be an easy task and would I even be able to measure the amount it's out by using back yard tech. So I figure land rover had a similar problem on the 300tdi (miss alignment of a belt pulley - causing the belt to run off) - they fixed it by putting sides on the crank pulley - et voila... I just purchased A 300tdi pulley with sides, I'll drill the spot welds and romove and then find a willing soul to tig weld them onto a 200tdi pulley...

Deep sigh... so the problem of the screeching timing belt is back. Started after a decent run, you hear what sounds like a fan belt slipping type noise, the only difference is like when this happend the other month, if you depres the clutch pedal the pitch of the belt noise changes slightly. - hence how I know it's the same issue. Someone in the related thread said something about a warped timing chest... I can't get my head around how that can just happen - the chest was replaced by me with a new genuine one a few years ago, and it was find on the other block. I guess my next step is to take the timing chest off try check it for flatness and re-mount as well as re-mount the fuel pump... kind of at a loss as to what else I can do, I'm assuming somthing is out of true, but I've been trying to get my head around why pushing the clutch changes the belt noise - I guess I'm effectively pushing the crank to one end of its float which shifts its position ever so slightly on the timing belt... Has anyone got a spare def timing chest sat about they'd be willing to sell?

Funny, as I've watched LR vehicle prices, it's crazy for a mid priced defender you can get a plethora of other much higher newer spec land rovers. I guess you just need to take into account they will have some expensive problems/ service costs and the running costs are going to be pricey as they're not know for there fuel economy. - a bit of a sweeping statement I know, but I'd agree the price of 2nd hand other LR's you get a lot of car for the cash now. I know some disco 3's did have some corrosion issues and I should imagine cheap cheap trucks are probably right on the nose for a big body off service that owners don't want to foot the bill for, so they just sell them.

Its not entirly clear picture, but the pump vains - looks different to any type I've seen before, I'm more familier with the stamped steel type - if you google you can see many like it, the pump vains look a good bit longer - but I guess pumping is kind irrelevant if ther's no water in the pump to start off with?

hmmm... head gasket?

Anything out of Europe just now seems to be 18 months plus... Well by the time I get the camel "restored" and sold to a wealthy American I might be able to afford a Grenadier!!!😂 just not the fuel to put in it! Whens the hydrogen fuel cell model come out?...

Due to the angle of the front part of the roof you can often just get away with dropping the rear and Ross says, I did it once with my truck see if I can find the pics.

Could I ask why you upgraded to the 100amp alternator?

Here is the solenoid for the starter STC3715 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starter-Motor-Solenoid-for-Land-Rover-Defender-300Tdi-OEM-STC3715-/293032473371?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0