Maverik

Is that mileage since the engine rebuild?

I installed a rakeway solid flywheel a few years ago to a td5 90. - to be fair its not done a lot of miles since it was installed. But no problems. I put in a solid billet one due to the now owner wanting to tune the thing up a bit.

Totally agree, that Disco looks great with those decals.

From the oil pump to the outside of the filter into the middle then off to lub the engine, hence sticking some magnets onto the housing is a perfect place for picking up any heavy magnetic bits and keeping them in a safe place.

I've got some flat super strong magnets I attach to the oil filter, when the filter comes off I swap the magnets over to the next filter. - I'm sure I saw someone else on here doing it.

The slots - another simple yet elegant solution, love it.

and who is it that does the machining/re-chroming?

After I did the engine re-build - it took a good bit of time for the oil to go dark - i.e. from an oil change its the dirty oil left over that does the initial "darkening" in my opinion, if you did the oil cooler pipes than thats a good bit further old oil removed from the system, I would'nt be worry.

It seems to take only a couple of thou out and they start to leak, I had a similar carry on earlier this year after I'd had the head off and given it a clean up myself with a bit of scotchbright - I spoke to the chap doing the skimming and he confirmed they're pretty "sensitive".

Problem with that is, you run the risk of the engine potentially sucking air the wrong way down your heater ducts, I.e sucking from your cabin

Installed new rear shocks this morning, and from some initial driving I think it's improved the situation, I've not driven the offending road which caused me to do this, but going by the state of the ones I took off, they where meant to be nitrogen charged, but they wouldn't fully extend, I think they where past there best.

I don't think I've seen a standard double servo setup on a defender, you've not obstructed the full pedal range and it's stopping you from fully bottoming out the brake master cylinder? Every 110 I've ever driven you can lock up the wheels relatively easily, even the heavy one. How healthy are your brakes lines? - I.e. the hose parts, could they be expanding, doesn't quite tie with your symptoms though.

A Sharp kitchen knife and some WD40 has always done me.

I saw 2 at the Great Yorkshire show a few weeks ago, was a pleasant surprise as I didn't know they'd be there. Got to say I was pretty excited to have a proper look around one, and even more interested once I'd had a proper good look around, they look like a great deal of thought has gone into the build, It was actually smaller than I was expecting, it very much being the dimensions of a 110, I dislike big bulky cars, which I feel all Land Rovers are these days . - having said that the interior was pretty spacious. It just feel well built, doors, body lines etc. My first thought was it is like a Modern take on a LR Def 110 a cross between a Gwagon and a Original Defender - I guess thats pretty much what the Design Brief was. If it drives anywhere near as good as it looks then it wont be disappointing. I doubt I'll be getting a Mk1, but depending on the energy/oil&gas market and transition to alternative fuel sources and engines, I reckon I might be ready for one when they do a Hydrogen fuel cell version! I have a master plan to restore the Camel 110, re-build a Td5 90, sell them all off and I might be able to raise enough to go towards a Grenadier. (I'm saving a 90 chassis, as I reckon I'm going to have a go at doing an electric conversion or a super eco petrol conversion to it at some point). Grenadier 9/10 for me, looks an awesome proposal.

So not quite to plan, the rear's are on back order. So I scrubbed the order and bought a pair of rear Britpart Cellular dynamics. See if that makes any difference to the ride. I just came from shopping and at one point - a back single track road out of York about 45-50 mph and I was holding onto the steering wheel to stop me from exiting the vehicle rather than steering, super bouncy. Rears at least should be an easy change. - then I'll look at the front. From memory its got Genuine LR shocks that must only be 2-3 years old max.

Blow away Sir, blow away. Looks really smart. I hope your top panel fits... 😉

Went for some Bilstein +2 from MM4x4 - for the same reason they where good value, she's not driving the miles just now so these will do for the time being - I'll see how they go. Thank you all for the help, I'll report back once I put them on see if it helps the ride.

I heard he'd got some comprising pictures of the editor in a 3some with a mitsubishi, a Toyota and a Jeep...

Pretty simple, yet effective. Over the past 8 years, mine has held up really well, still holding the covers in now perfectly. Its also good as it isolated the panel from metal to metal, less of a vibration risk. The Velcro worked so well, I even used a 40mm wide strip of Velcro to hold an aluminium box section as a center beam in the middle of the rear roof, not structural, its more a mounting for an LED strip light, anyways thats not moved either since installation, really impressed with the self adhesive glue, seems super heat resistant.

Can you not just pop a new bearing in there with some suitable locking compound/glue? I doubt those cracks will cause any issue's... Might not be further serviceable the next time but you will get another lifetime out the pulley?

Yeah that's really quite awesome, good job. 👍

If you're super keen, and can find a suitable blanking plate, you can actually remove the pump all together on 200tdi, might give you an extra 0.1 bhp back...

Just standing back and looking at the thing as a whole and even attempting making your own bulkhead, I really do take my hat off. I'm giving a few members of the Camel Trophy owners club support in various parts of the world who have decided to fabricate various Came Trophy vehicle add on's, from Full roll cages to the custom roof racks, I love the spirit that drives folk to get creative with metal - I think I'm living vicariously through you people, as I've not got the workshop set up to be able to dabble myself just now! Can't wait to see the finished product Stephen.

The black thing circled is just an electrical Interference suppressor - i.e. it helps keep some of the EMF from the alternator effecting the radio - background crackling etc. you dont need to take it across to the new one.

You can guarantee a pinhole right above the accelerator pedal area which drips water into your boot on rainy days! 😂 - seam sealer belt and braces.