Maverik

Santiago, to be honest if you can affored Ashcroft parts then go for it. You're talking high quality gear with good after sales service. I would buy LR/bespoke parts for everything if I was uber rich. unfortunatly I'm not. So I just buy expensive important bits and make do with the rest. I'm just replacing my fron CV's, I looked at Ashcrofts fusable one's and they look amazing, but for £450 a pop, I can't justify that money just now, so I ended up finding some Genuine LR at Rimmerbros (hopefully these are GKN and will last me). I think the weakest point in any standard transmission are the half shafts, hence why they are mostly easy to change out if they do break. Mav

Partly true... but there are some quite expensive replacment parts going around. I've just spent about 400 squid on parts for front axle... decided to go with a BP swivel kit, which includes everything you need to re-build a swivel (excluding the ball) its mainly all the gaskets. The gaskets are branded gasket material and look ok. don;t like the look of the swivel lower bearing so got a Timkin replacment, other than that the upper bearing looks pretty good - better than the Allmakes one I pulled out of it. I also got a heap of high tensile 12 point bolts for peanuts from BP and they cost a fortune elsewhere, and they are exactly the same as any other 10.9 grade bolt. chuffed about that. I just think you have to be carfull with your choice of parts. If its dimensionally/safety critcal - thye you have to look about for a quality part. BP obviously are going for the cheap - but sell lots of scenario as aposed to the Ashcroft route that make bespoke parts that last a liftime which is reflected in the cost.

With anything over 2", to do the job properly you will want to look into extended brake hoses, castor corrected rad arms, longer shocks and wide yolk props. Dropped shock mounts. 2-3 inches is a gray area really as depending on what you have set up previously and how you run the vehicle can have a bearing on what extent of bits you need to change out - and how you want to run the vehicle in the future i.e. purely offroad/bit of both/on road just to look "cool". If you're intending on doing axle twisting offroad stuff, then you might want to look at dislocation cones as well and rear axle check straps too. I'll 2nd the terrafirma gear too, got some bits from them. Mav

Looking for a part number for a defender TD5 post 2000 year (to fit in a 2006 spec door), pressed steel panel that you mount the door opener lever too and the window winding mechanism. Cheers Mav

Sick of buying rubbish cardboard gaskets, so going to invest in some gasket material. There are loads of suppliers on fleebay etc. Does anyone have any preference/recommendations for day to day gasket material? Cheers Mav

Hello, Have a read of this, might help you. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56765&st=0&p=500963&fromsearch=1entry500963 Mav

Cheers Western. no wonder I couldn't find them. guess I'll have to do it the old fashioned way.

Hello, does anyone know the part number for the gromets for a defender underseat battery box? Cheers Mav

Found some at Rimmerbros, they are selling Genuine LR CV's for £88 inc VAT. I'll go spare if they turn out to be BP!!!

Could you elaborate on this? - as from the parts book, there is a washer between the outer bearing and the first nut. then the locking shim which you bend over the nut faces when tight. The only spacers in the wheel hub assembly (to my knowledge) are the ones used to pack out the CV joint spindal when it pops through the driving member, as to put the CV joint in the right place inside the swival and so the half shaft doesn't protrude to far inside the diff assembly?

Thought about doing this, have you just run a couple of general earth wires to the major earth point, behind dash, engine loom etc?

To be honest I wouldn't worry too much, whatever way you do it your're going to have to cajole them together again. In my humble opinion its best to do it with the wheels on the ground. Depending on what sidethe bolt head is on, if you have room, you could insert another bolt as you tap the original out, keeping ur rad arm aligned but removing the bolt, if you get my gist. Mav

I wouldn't bother torqueing, you get a lot better idea doing it by feel, over tighten - then back it off.

Just rang ashcrofts they got em for 425 pounds a pop, heavy duty and heavy duty only...

The only way to beat it is to break the current path, i.e. paint it or insulate it from the steel. Unfortunatly you will find ot all over the place. But make sure you don;t insulate bits too well or your electrics will stop working! can you specify what screws/bolts they are - photo?

Unfortunatly I don't have much near me! I just got this reply from Offroad rovers, when I enquired about AEU2522 - surely this part isn't obsolete? "Hi, No not at all it is our company policy not to supply any Britpart products due to their horrendous quality issues. This product is not from Bearmach we get these from one of our other Land Rover suppliers (Premier) and is a very good quality product, if you prefer we can supply you a Bearmach brand version for £44.99. We have just phoned Bearmach and Land Rover and the GKN version is no longer available neither is Genuine Land Rover (Obsolete part). But be assured this is not Britpart. Best regards Jay www.offroadrovers.co.uk "

Craddocks just quoted me 300 squid plus for a GKN one... unfortunatly I'm not that rich... unless someone knows an alternative supplier of GKN parts, I think I will be looking at a Bearmach one...

I found an awesome repair on my drivers door I just replaced, it consisted of a kallogs corn flake box section covered in a think super strong covering of body filler. looked ace, hats off to the guy that did it, must have taken him hours. i only found it as I got curious with my hammer, as it looked better than the rest of the door

Can anyone suggest a supplier of GKN CV's?

got my 86reg 90's front axle in its diagramatic exploded form... Replacing oil seals, stub axlee, bearings etc. Half shafts are 10-23 type don't look to bad at the 10 end. Question, My CV joints have some pitting, by no means bad, but the balls are starting to show it. While they're out (the CV complete) would you change them out for a "quality" replacment one? From what I can feel there is very little play in the joint itself. Just the marking on the balls and race etc. Cheers Mav

I 2nd Tonka, local marine diesel outfitter up here did if for pretty much the same 35 squid a pop. Mav

Looks like BH108061M from the parts catalogue, but can't seem to find it other than below. http://www.classiclandrovers.no/?page=shop/flypage&product_id=24150&category_id=340&std_qty=4&PHPSESSID=a924e0305195908916ba8a0f5e53d22c LR series have verious M8 bolts but I think these might be 10.9 grade high tensile, so you might have to check that out. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6797/FS108307L-SCREW-M8-X-30-FLANGED-HEAD.html?search=M8 x 30&page=1 Mav

Fleebay... nice n cheap... just replacing my nuts as some ejit used a chisel on them last time... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-HUB-NUT-BOX-SPANNER-/190385610471?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c53dddee7

According to that then the difference is the number of splines on the half shaft side. My searches turned up the same as Les's, so cheers errol for solving my little mystery. Mav

Can anyone tell me the difference between these 2 CV joint parts. AEU2522 and RTC6862. The parts catalogue says its down to certain axle numbers, ok. but does anyone know what the actual differnce was to change the part number? Cheers Mav