Maverik

fozsug, do you work in a body shop? I've been using Acid 8 etch for some other stuff, gotta say I'm pretty immpressed with it. Does t-wash chemicaly roughen then surface? by the description of application, it speeds up an oxidisation process? - which presumably creates a better keying surface?... I just dont want to paint to a keyed galvanised surface then find out I should have oxidised it before hand.

Cheers, did't think to look there. I was just reading up on the stuff Mordant Solution / T Wash. Anyone know what it actually does to the zinc?

I have a new LR door - steel type fully galvanised, it doesn;t have an undercoat so I need to prime it. I have read verious things about how it needs a little work to properly prime it. - it being my door I want to try get this right so the paint system doesn't start to peel off within a week. Can anyone give me any pointers to how to do this, i.e. paint type, finish etc. I read somewhere it needed wiping down with amonia? - are there any paints out ther that people have used that can do thi already? Cheers Mav

23 Euro is bargin - I just picked up a new 06 onwards door which is fully galvanised witch also has a steel skin... a little expensive at 200 squid, but it will hopefully last as long as the chassis now!

Well true to there word, I got my free safety glasses!!! I also got the funky ones with LED's they're brilliant!!!

I'd cut it off and stick it on here, take some good pictures of it, lick o paint? leave the rest for mr scrap man.

You'd probably get put in Jail for 1)causing physical harm 2)causing mental stress 3)causing mental stress to said "pikeys" family/dog/cat/bestest mate. 4)intention to remove ones leg of said pikey Make sure you leave some water and a banana next to the trap - you don't want to get done for attempted murder.

Just spotted this.... they may courier it across for you? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-rover-90-110-front-axle-case-/270602316333?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0127aa2d

Would it not be cheaper to buy a 2nd hand front axle then strip and re-build? Something to note/check: earlier axles have narrower front rad arm mounts - also imperial bolts that hold the calipers on.

I've just installed a 5 yr old TD5 bulkhead and I was shocked to find corrosion where I did. The bulkhead is put together from spot welded pressed steel plate. Some of the seems of the plates where they are doubled up are sealed with a tough plastic bond, other holes have a wax type putty covering them.. this is rubbish. I've found water has crept between the non sealed panels which then corrodes and bulges/swells and pushes the (thin) plate apart... I found this had happend especially on the inner drivers side behind the dash - looks like it was condesation that had caused it. so before wax oiling. I inspected the whole thing and wiped Tiger sealant in all the non sealed joints and plates.

Well a pretty good rule of thumb for me is, the more money you spend on somthing the longer, more hassle and damage there is to it, by the time you get it weeks after ticking the "24hr" delivery box. I will say this a lot can be said for phoneing people up - especially to follow up an email. Nowadays inboxes get so full with spam mail etc. it really does detract from it being a usuable communication device. I'm only 27 and I think that sales people are very much about themselves and less about giving a service. Unfortunatly they have us by the balls as we need them for spares and as much as Land Rover spares are resonably common, it is still quite specialised. Having said that, there are quite a few exceptions to the rule, where you still get quality parts and service.

Cheers, I'll go a hunting.

Have a 86 LR90 with Disco 200Tdi. I recently found the oil pressure switch wire dangling quite forlornly from its switch housing, can anyone give me any pointers as to a location on the main engine wireing loom where is splits off from? Its the original 86 loom too, so nice and basic - i just can't find the other end!!! Cheers mav

I do need to brush up on my spanish I guess

Is this one of those occasions where you just burn energy for the sake of it... like eating a stick of celery... totally useless, waste of time and also tastes a bit weird...

Hello, please don't take this the wrong way, but this kinda defeats the object of the forum if you don't write in english. Mav

when you turn the ignition on, all your dash lights should light up as a test, if you see an ABS light flash up then you have got it.

http://overlandjourney.com/2009/11/02/trabant-overland-expedition-offroad-in-central-asia-deserts/ this is classic - check out the bit where they just lift the car out a pot hole...!

They're suprisingly heavy, I'd make an estimated guess at around 15kg...

How does that work then?

This is more an observation rather than any type of criticism. I do a bit steel inspection for work and structural related design. To properly repair any corrosion damage you need to remove the bad stuff and put an insert of steel into the gap and weld it up. this will allow the integrity of the structural member to be maintained. I find if very difficult sometime's seeing patch repairs especially to motor vehicles - as a patch just usually covers up the badness - ironically this usually satisfies an MOT tester (whom probably have limited knowledge in structural steel repair admittedly..) A patch repair on steel contributes a negligible amount to the parents structures integrity. Although the hole you found would not pass an MOT by inspection, "practically" it probably has little or no effect to the overall stability of the chassis unless the corrosion covers a lot larger area. off course as its exposed - it will just get worse. A few intresting pictures attached.

Rakeway make the performance clutch systems for Dakar rally vehicles, the standard clutch bearing carrier is plastic so can melt if your putting heavy load on your clutch for reasonable periods. they make nice shiney alloy ones that will last a liftime. I really would get in touch with these guys as they will be able to give you exactly what you need. and to be honest for what you get I think the prices are pretty good.

Overhauling my brake system and i was wondering what my G-valve does? The workshop manual from what I can see doesn't give me much info, can anyone expand on it? Cheers mav

Give www.rakeway.co.uk a ring - the guy there was amazing, I didn't really even ring him for advice, I just wanted an alloy clutch release bearing and he was obviously an expert in his field (mainly clutches!!) could supply me anything from standard parts to a custom clutch and flywheel that evidently wouldn't slip with any amount of torque you put through it. If you are updating ur clutch plate then consider the other bits that you might want to upgrade too, e.g. alloy clutch release bearing (wont melt) and re-enforced thrust linkage - you have to ask yourself why you are putting a HD clutch on, taking into account LR clutches are pretty beefy already.

Zues Engineering do a Salisbusy disc conversion kit for 500 squid. actually not that bad when you break it down what your gettin gfor your dosh.