Maverik

Looking at putting a TD5 bulkhead into my 84 reg 90. I notice there is no center hole in the the TD5 bulkhead for the mian wireing loom to cme through to the fuse box, anyone know where the main loom penetration is, is it in the passanger side footwell? Cheers Mav

I managed to put together a original rubbers kit myself of fleebay, but when I actually got round to fitting some and found out how hard it was to install new "rubbers" myself, I binned that idea and went for polybushes. I didn't have handy a million ton press to get em in

I just fitted a total new exhaust to my 90 and it sounds sweet as a nut now, I can actually have a conversation in the cab without having to shout. Beats the shortend usless side exhaust it had on before.

But before I totally do, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=28589&st=20 - previous disscusion including original pic Evidently its for a LT95... says MR FRIDGE.

Roger... I think I will bow out gracefully out of this thread...

yeah ok... you could do this instead? http://www.rockymountainspares.co.uk/rocky/images/52-zoomed.jpg

It could be simple power take off - a le - http://4x4winches.com/images/pages/page_winch_systems/pto_pump.jpg Although it doesn't look anywhere near as hard core as to be able to power a winch...

Thanks Les, that compliments your tech thread about replacing brake lines quite well. - I think the bubble is another name for a double flare, I read a few other forums about it and I think some guys where getting confused with there flaring so they invented a new word...!

Where was the photo from?

Just refurbing my brakes and lines, from what I've read there can be some dangerous confusion with regard to UNF and metric fittings, so decided to redo the whole lot... my truck has been heavily faffed with and I am presuming my braking system is knacked, so planning on relaying new copper brake pipe. Taking the lines off the rear axle I noticed that the copper had been "bubble" flared (from internet pics - is this the same as double flared???). Can anyone elaborate on the different types of flaring one can do on pipework, from what I gather, there are 3 types, Single?, double and bubble flaring? What are the advantage of using each? for standard 3/16" copper pipe and 3/8"UNF fttings can I just use a standard flare? Cheers Mav

"Impossible" - nothing in Engineering is impossible, just varying degrees of difficult...! Would you care to elaborate?

Just fitted STC4401 and it had the leather type on before. The actual profile of the seal seat is identical so you can actually interchange them, took a few pictures and will put them on here just to complete the thread.

I think there are 6 mounting points, see pics of my 90, sorry for poor quality. 2 aft of the A frame chassis strut, 2 fwd of the bump stop and 2 above the brackets for tow bar on the chassis. - they may be doubled up...?

By the way, I don't work for Britpart!!! I'm just getting tired of trying to avoid buying Britpart. Anyone got any calipers from them?

Yeah, for some reason it clashed with the bracket where the clutch pipe turns into a hose, you can just see it in the top left corner of the photo. Andy (the guy that makes them) said that about 1 in 6 that he supplied this happend, evidently it was associated with bulkhead changes and other changes that just shifted the clearances a bit. The 2a model he produces is pretty much identical except its a little more compact between the bulkhead and the turbo outlet (the first curviture down the way), that one fitted up perfectly. You can just bend/cut the bracket for the clutch and move it out the way, but I didn't want the faff of having to make more mess in the engine bay. I'm quite pleased with it, ok its not a super curved, air flow optimised pipe, but its better than what was on before.

Ok, controversial topic I know, but Britpart can’t all be bad?? what have people got installed/used that hasn’t had a problem? Please don't take this post as a place to whinge about unreliable, poor quality parts. I'm trying to take the glass is half fill perspective here! Cheers Mav

I juts got one of these from that guy Andy - (not steve parks) he was great, the "defender" type didn't fit my 90 so he sent me a series IIa one that had some tighter angles, that fitted a dream. Really helpfull chap too.

After doing similar reserch, I decided to get the wing part made up. quite easy, not got round to making a pettern yet though. http://www.devon4x4.com/products_b/p14272c-2/0/mantec-snorkel-nas-spec.html --- or the rather pricey alternative.

Te hehe so that's why god gave us angle grinders, nut spliters and penatrating oil.

Cheers guys, never heard of a "bi hex" before, any perticular reason why they are used?

Whats the name of the type of socket to fit this bolt? Cheers mav

Could you clarify something. why if the bolt pattern is the same cound I not just fit a new caliper (metric later one) using the original UNF bolts? cheers

Well I'd start removing te dash carfully. Its easy enough to pop off the instrument binicle and have a peak behind there, you may see water staining/residue from where the leak comes from. if you're methodical on how you take the the screws out, take plenty of photos and put all the screws into a piece of cadboard then its not such a huge job. i removed the interior in a day (but not put it back yet!) but I'm not too concered. Maybe start pooring water in some tactical places on a nice dry day, see if you can replicaate the leak? It was a similar water leak that unfortunatly led me to do this...

Cheers Les, will pull it apart and see what I find.