TS888

X2 -- love mine.

Good to know, thanks! I had a cheaper-than-Mac's source in the US, but did not know of one here.

It's been a while since I did any steering work, but I don't think the drop arm does point straight ahead when the steering is centered. I may be a bit thick on this, but from what I read in the OP's info, when the steering box is centered (halfway between L and R lock), his wheels point left. This means when the wheels point straight, he has fewer turns to right lock than to left lock. If the drag link is fully shortened (which pulls the left front wheel to the right, and through the tie rod the right front wheel follows), then the only thing that can be causing the wheels to point left with the steering centered is the drop arm is in the wrong position. Correct?

<pedant> Were "stupidist" to enter the lexicon, it would likely be defined as "one who practices stupidity." Ref. pugilist, columnist, exorcist, etc. As an alternative to "most stupid", "stupidest" follows the form of other superlatives. Ref. tallest, smartest, prettiest, etc. "Most stupidest" would be a redundancy and grammatically incorrect, similar to most tallest, most strongest, or most loudest. </pedant> <opinionated w4nker> Personally I don't like the side mount for cans, although they do double as security for the windows. </opinionated w4nker> <helpful forum guy> The tracks the can frames mount to look like Mac's VersaTie track, sold in the UK by Mudstuff. This you may all ready know, since the picture you posted is on the Mudstuff cargo control page. Mudstuff doesn't list the gerry can holder, neither does the Mac's home website. Perhaps a call or email to Mudstuff to ask about the photo?

Is there a reason you think it isn't working? It's VERY difficult to move by hand.

I'd second that. In the US, selection and price are better on 15" tires; I almost swapped from 16" to 15" on my NAS RRC. Almost...

If the pulley is expendable, why not have a go with the cutting wheel? I did the rear brakes on my 110 recently, the caliper bolts were so rusty nothing would bite. The calipers were knackered, so I just split them with the cutting wheel so I could get to the caliper mount bracket bolts...

Based on your original post about the position of the wheel and the results of your lock-to-lock/2 exercise, I'd wager the drop arm is installed off center. As I recall the centering slot is on the hub of the arm, a couple of little "ears" poke off the rear side of the hub. Are you certain the arm on your truck hasn't got that? You'll want to disconnect the drag link and then remove the drop arm. Removing the drop arm can be a bugger; they are tight under the best of circumstances and a few years of road salt and rust will make it seem like welding it on would be redundant. If it's really stuck, pick up a replacement drop arm/ball joint and use a cutting wheel to trim the existing arm at the hub to the point that you can split it with a chisel.

How are you feeding the signal to your new relays? I have one relay for dip beam and one for main, triggered by the original power wire to the left headlamp. Didn't touch the sidelight wires, so no problems.

Ah, good to see the angle grinder in use. Hate to think I'm the only one who requires it for every Landy task...

Tinned cable is more resistant to corrosion, but unless you park in the sea it's probably overkill.

The issue with sizing wire and fuses is amp load. To get amp load, use this formula: Watts/volts = amps. You are dealing with a 12v system, so the volts is always 12. Theoretically a 20 amp fuse will protect up to 240 watts, which is about the draw of your dip and main beams all together. Realistically, most equipment you would power from a 12v socket (phone, gps) will only need an amp or two max, and you want the fuse to be able to burn and protect your wiring before the smoke gets out. If you are going to run a DC/AC inverter, then you'll want at least one socket wired to support the amp draw of that item. I.e., a 100 watt inverter will pull 8.33 amps, requiring a 10 amp fuse; a 200 watt inverter would draw 16.67 amps and require a 20 amp fuse. Running a supply wire from the battery to a distribution block is ok, but you should fuse the wire from the DB to each socket rather than the supply wire.

One more reason to continue stockpiling parts for my 110...

But your garage floor is still rust free, no?