TS888

Complete wings come up on eBay regularly. And of course the classified section of this board and all the other Landy bulletin boards. And if you want new, I'm sure Craddocks, Paddocks, LR Series, all carry the full wing or any part.

Fixed it for ya

I used a similar product called Seafoam on the 3.9 in my RRC in the US -- it made white smoke in quantities similar to a house fire... I think it successfully converted the last few neighbors who didn't hate me!

I paid £250 to have a small dent repaired and the door painted on my BMW 5 series, which was worth it only because it sold for a much better price without the dent. Now it's time to paint the 110 -- £65 for two litres of Marine blue and one litre of white Tekaloid, another £30 or so at B&Q for rollers, brushes, sand paper and drop cloths. I've had my share of nice cars, and no longer want to care about where I park, where I drive, or if I wash it. I just want it all one color -- well, two if you count the top!

FWIW, I think the fog relay is behind the instrument panel. not by the fuse box.

Sometimes it helps just to vent, eh?

Perhaps some injector cleaner every 6 months or so. Otherwise I think it's mostly snake oil.

I was pondering this same issue. On the R380, the lever is mounted on an offset that puts it in front of the splined shifter stub on the box. I'm thinking of cutting the shift lever and reversing the offset so it is to the back of the splined stub. The shifter would fall nearer to hand as well as clearing the dash and Raptor console by an extra couple inches. Of course I have no center seat. If you do, this might make things a bit personal for any center seat occupants...

That's a huge A/C condenser, seems a bit overkill unless you spend a lot of time in North Africa-type heat. On an older BMW I had in the US, I added aircon using a parallel flow condenser about half that size, and using R134a coolant I had 2C vent temps on 38C days.

They changed the cutting on the gears, which makes the 'Q' run quieter. I've been told by others the difference is noticeable in a Defender, less so in a Disco as there is more sound deadening. No personal experience.

I bought a 110 with a 1 month old MOT that was MUCH worse than that. I could poke holes in the rear xmember with my finger, and all the brakes looked like they'd been marinating in the ocean for a year. Nudge nudge, wink wink, 20 bob's your uncle...

I wouldn't rule out belt or chain. Belt in particular could have a benefit in being the "fuse" to protect the rest of the drive train, and I can picture the design making the replacement of a belt a simple job in the field. I would bet there are some hella strong belts in industrial applications.

That would be real world, comparing my experience with a DL and an Arb. It still is a personal preference, but I prefer being able to completely unlock, and that's the advice I give when asked. I do disagree with the assertion that you don't know they are there -- a DL makes some noise on pavement.

Can't recall the exact wire colors (though I do recall that the colors in my truck didn't match the ones I found listed in reference posts), but if you look at the plug, there are two large blue/something wires, joining those jumps the dim/dip.

A Detroit locker is about one step up from a Lincoln locker (i.e. welded diff). Fine for a truck used mostly off road, but a poor choice if you spend the majority of time on tarmac. They're cheap for a reason.

What model year? One common source of this problem is the dim/dip relay has packed it in, if you have a truck built in the years with dim/dip/

There definitely is a starter relay. It's mounted by the fuse panel.

Isn't the purpose of the drive flange to be "sacrificial", so the splines in the diff don't take all the wear? I have heard this from various sources, and it could well be a load of sh*te, since the Disco rear halves have an integral flange. That is all.

If you're fitting Gwyn's arms, have a talk with him for a recommendation. He's bound to have something.

If you're traveling alone or with one other person, a 90 should be big enough to overland in.

That's the factory unit, just like mine from a '95.

I'd say keep it. I had a RRC outfitted for overlanding in the US, and I used a roof top tent. Everything two people needed for weeks away fit inside, and I still had one rear seat in place! I've a 110 commercial now, because I wanted to be able to sleep inside the truck vs. using a tent, but I was very happy sleeping in the RTT. I'd say keep your 90.

Isn't it amazing what an improvement proper wiring provides? I was getting just a shade over 11v at the lamps with the stock wiring. I did a new loom exactly as Dyna VT illustrated, and now have over 13v to the lamps. I have a similar loom for my aux lamps, all in a weather proof box under the bonnet.

Fitted my Raptor console and also Phil's steel instrument panel housing last weekend. The quality is absolutely top notch, more so considering the very fair price (the instrument housing is the same price as the plastic OEM part). My installation skills don't do Phil's work justice. I expect these units will outlast my Landy!

I'v ebeen told by someone who claims to have done it that the 4 pin P38 diff will fit in a LN case and work with the LN ring/pinion. I have not tried it myself, so cannot confirm or deny.