FridgeFreezer

For some time now my PC has been getting slower and slower, most noticeable is that WinAmp slows down when I load a program or open something up, which it never did in the past. I'm pretty sure I don't have a virus as I don't us Outlook, Express, or IE and have AVG, Spybod S&D and ZoneAlarm running and up to date, although ZoneAlarm's VSMon.exe does seem to use huge amounts (80mb) of RAM I've tried a few tricks as recommended via the intyweb - shutting down un-needed windows services, uninstalling unused programs, but nothing seems to make much difference. On peeking at the registry, it's chocked full of stuff I don't recognise / even remember installing that surely can be cleaned out, but I'm no expert so wouldn't trust myself to do it and Windows "regclean" seemed to make no dent whatsoever. I suppose the easy solution would be to format & reinstall windows, but then I would lose a lot of programs and such that would all have to be reinstalled and quite frankly it's a PITFA. Can anyone offer some tips, or perhaps a link to some system-tidying software that's not full of spyware?

As a cunning twist, one of the guys from the Disco Owner's Club had a roof-top luggage box converted to a sort of mini-roof tent, seemed like a very good idea. Mind you he also had a mini-caravan exactly the size of a single bed that he'd built from scratch.

I get mine from the nearest motor factors, it's usually Comma but there are others out there that are fine. It's a lot cheaper than halfords, and since it's good practice to change the oil in any part that's been under water it's good to have a barrel of it "on tap", otherwise you just find yourself putting it off I tend to buy oil and filters in bulk and change them often, rather than fill it with expensive oil and not change it. Main gearbox, if it's manual, takes either ATF or MTF94 - check Ashcrofts website for guidance.

Hmmm, what's that smell? I'm quite curious about how these things might "work", or rather what's inside them as a green blob doesn't constitute a "Pulse Circuit" in my book

Did you also see that they blew up the other MSC ship into two pieces and are scrapping it, hope yours has got there OK!

7S would be a tricky one to police, but then any large site is difficult to make secure. It does have several large flat areas ideal for traders. To back to the Glasto model, unless you have a large fence and decent security patrols you are never going to keep it 100% locked down.

Buy a 25l drum of EP90 and a 5l plant sprayer minus the spray head, makes a lot of maintenance much easier - fill with EP90, stick nozzle in hole and squirt! Repeat until everything's topped up.

Oh and you can download most of the LR technical manuals, one link is here but there are others, use the search button.

Thoughts in no particular order: - Space means less worries about entry, I really like the idea of doing a show at a huge site like 7S as it has plenty of space for everything. - Organisation needs to be good but not over-zealous, you want to stop wrong 'uns getting in but this year all the palarva of camping passes, vehicle passes, club stand passes etc. did people's heads in and caused unnecessary hassle. Some decent security who are patrolling 24h is what's needed. Hell, a "one-ticket" weekend could even work, cut out all the admin carp and just sell a single ticket for a reasonable price that gets you in and camped if you want. Since no-one seemed to have the correct pass for the weekend at Bling anyway you're not likely to lose money. - For marshaling etc. follow the festival model with local club members - they get one day of working on a gate etc. and one day of free entry for their troubles. - Social side: you need to let clubs in, there has always been a reluctance for some shows to let clubs come along and have stands (Nay had to fight for our Bling stand), but the clubs are at the core of the scene, they create the community spirit and organise the majority of events. They are the best point of contact a newbie can have as they can find a local club, and get help & advice that isn't from a trader or magazine with a vested interest. They also bring some of the most interesting vehicles along. Having a prize for best club stand can encourage some really good stuff too, just make sure you automatically disqualify the camel club to make it fair on everyone else Defining a "family area" and a "groups" area of the campsite, at opposite ends, would be a good move. Then people can camp nearer to whichever end they are drawn to. - Activities are a tough area, what interests one person bores the other. A good off-road course with spectating would be a start, perhaps run a trials section and a mini punch-challenge section so that people can see the different disciplines at work. Giving rides round in vehicles with an instructor is a good thing, LR do this with their Terrapod thing but it's a bit tame and you can't take your own vehicle round (I did ask them ) A hill-climb (a-la the bike one at Rachau) could be fun if a suitable venue can be found, although I'd guess a cage would be essential Twist-offs are fun if organised well and everyone can have a go, the Gaydon one where anyone could roll up to the ring and have a go was cool. Others I've seen seem to be a show-off opportunity for a few "extreme" trucks and traders, which is boring to watch as none of the trucks are "real world" and there's no point of comparison. Technical demos are good, but when they are run by traders "demonstrating" how wonderful their product is, or by the likes of Mr Cobley showing what a driving god he is, they just suck so badly. Hire someone, enlist a local club, anything but corporate bull! A few leaves from the London 2 Brighton book that work very well - they run a raffle with prizes donated by sponsors / traders which is nice - prizes don't have to be expensive, going home with a free set of foglights or a hi-lift will make most punters happy enough. They also give out awards for best vehicle in each type (best RR, best Series, best off-roader, etc.) on the club stands and of course the much coveted Duck Tape And String award All this costs very little (judging by the trophy ) but makes people's day. They also do the inter-club "tug a 101" run which is a bit of light hearted rivalry. The Scrapheap Challenge at Eastnor is another good fun event. Something I'd like to see done is a rollover ramp - so people can drive their trucks on and see how far it can tilt before it rolls. Obviously you'd need to engineer it so they don't just fall over, but they exist for trucks and buses and it would give a useful demonstration and comparison to people with different mods on their trucks. As for arena events, giving each club a slot to come in and have a quick word and show off a couple of vehicles could fill a day pretty well. Never mind dog display teams and all that rubbish. - Food should not be tendered out to one company, invite a few different ones along to give people choice and keep prices relatively sane. Hell, send out invites to anyone and see who turns up and pays for a pitch. I don't know who they are but the cream and green food vans that go to every single festival are utter rubbish, avoid them. Best food I've had outdoors has been from some of the smaller niche traders - the organic spud company at Glasto do a roaring trade in reasonably priced, edible, and filling food. - Trade stands I don't really know much about the setup, but it would be good to keep fees low so that you get a good spectrum of traders and not just those with the biggest budgets. Also lowering the trade stand costs mean that they might actually be able to offer genuine "show prices" that are cheaper than you can buy normally.

Didn't say it was bolt-on, but it's doable. Looking at the layout on mine (109) I reckon losing 21" out of the drivetrain should be pretty easy, and that's with the long V8 bellhousing. I have a good 3-6" space in front of the engine and a long-ish rear prop, that's with a Series front end and PAS.

Just remember the Haynes book is FULL OF LIES - not that it stops any of us from reading it but remember to add a couple of spanners to the difficulty rating and about 50% extra to the expected timescale... The "Green Bible" (Land Rover service manual) and White Book (Parts catalogue) are money well spent (usually around £20 each from Paddocks etc.), in fact the parts book is often the most useful because it contains an exploded diagram of everything with a part # to order a new one. It doesn't tell you how to do the job but it does show every last nut and bolt and where it goes.

Dan (V8Bertha) and Jen (Jen ) have shipped their Camel 110 (Charlie) across the pond and are undertaking a 5-month tour of the United States. Since they are keeping a proper blog thing I thought I'd post the link here - if you have comments for them please post on their blog to save them having to check back and post here as well as on the blog. Click for Dan & Jen's USA Tour Blog

It's a good engine but it's hardly the pinnacle of engine technology, you're never going to shred the tarmac with a 200TDi unless you spend megabucks tuning it, so why bother when you could spend far less and drop in a more powerful lump from something else?

Welcome! The 4x4 is born DVD is perhaps not the ideal instructional material since it involves handing a chequebook to Scorpion for the "fully extreme" suspension Also the test-drive at Brick Kiln my mum has driven round that site in a stock RR What exactly are you looking for instruction on - spannering, fabrication, upgrades, modifications, driving, maintenance...? All the answers are on this forum if you ask the questions

Why muck about - drop a 5-speed in. Series boxes were never designed for more than about 60bhp. You can even keep it 2/4wd with an LT230.

If it's a facet pump (many V8's were) then it ticks quite audibly, fast when there's no load/back pressure and then slows down when it has to work against something. They have a built-in filter, undo the end with a spanner and change the red filter bit, they are available from most car suppliers (Merlin, Think, Rallydesign, VWP, etc.):

I'm sure an adult (Bull Bar Cowboy) will be along in a minute to splain it but that isn't quite how I understand it. There is the BSFC number of your engine but, unless you have a turbo this is reasonably similar across the board. Since all engines are about the same at converting fuel into motion, the cooling is a % of the BHP produced. Turbos give >100% VE numbers but that's a bit of a smoke screen, it doesn't mean they're more efficient at making power, it just means a smaller engine can fit a bigger bang in in the first place.

Mo - don't follow your logic there mate, the 2.8 goes really well and Jez's one has done two ladogas (plus the miles it had on it when he bought it) with no problems. Parts availability isn't a problem when it doesn't go wrong. They're also a lot cheaper than a 200TDi and more powerful, with lots of tuning potential.

Loads of them about - all the usual suspects for tools etc. from Snap On to Rolson sell them. Mate has one in his Ibex and it's very good.

It might not be difficult, I've had both my LT230's apart and they're not rocket science (by contrast I would not even think about opening an LT77 or R380, not my idea of fun). The earlier ones have shims on the intermediate gears which (apparently) wear and cause this shunting, the later ones are taper roller bearing so perhaps new bearings or maybe there's a shim/spacer/preload to be looked at. Could be worth asking someone like Mr Ashcroft.

Distributor what? Do they still do those?

I thought this was the default setting?

Although obviously it's been done with such reverence for historical accuracy you will struggle to spot it, there is a 2.8 in this: It's on an R380 box but not sure what the bellhousing is, I'm fairly sure it's not V8 but stand to be corrected. You won't bolt the engine to a gearbox without an adapter ring anyway.

Mine does this, I was told if you have a worn box the gears can "shunt" back and forth under changes in load and pop the thing out.

Welcome to the forum! For EFi problems have a search round, there have been reams posted on the subject in the RR forum and Nige (Hybrid_From_Hell) has posted up a PDF document of the complete fault finding guide - read it and work through it, the system really isn't that complex once you get over the "OMFG electrics!" mental barrier that many LR types are afflicted with If that fails, search for "MegaSquirt" as it's often the quickest option when faced with temperamental Lucarse EFi For hi-lift springs you could do worse than buy a set of HD police-spec ones from Paddocks, about £8 per corner. Lifting the suspension massively leads to problems with bushes, props, and angles. 1-2" is about the happy max as far as I can tell. Fitting larger than stock tyres is a better way to gain an inch as you gain clearance under the axles not just under the body, again I think 235/75 R16 are about the happy max before you have to cut bodywork although it sounds like you're not so bothered on that count