FridgeFreezer

It's a disguise - when biscuits are in distress, Dog becomes SuperDog!

Paul - are you after a list of weights of components? Not being rude but we could list out all sorts of things and what they weigh but would it actually be of any benefit? Like the engine bunfight thread and the axle/diff threads there is no one answer or magic bullet - Most things weigh as much as they do because that's the "best" way to make them without resorting to expensive lightweight materials or machining processes. Since most things are in proportion, start with a vehicle that's already decent off-road and "add lightness". Whether you start with a RR or an SJ the end result should be similar, which one would be better is open to argument - horses for courses, again there is no "right" answer. You've already saved a load of weight hybriding your RR, you could take it to the Nth degree by stripping it down and rebuilding but at what point are you gaining enough to make it worthwhile? Wide tyres (or just airing down) increases your footprint and so reduces your ground pressure - Petal may be 2000kg but she can drive wherever you can walk, if you built something half the weight would you see enough of an increase in performance to justify the extra effort?

Now that's what a distributor should look like I must find an old one to do similar with.

I hear there's an eight-legged over-volted version of that in the pipeline...

I met the Welding Stig but the photographs just came out as grey fog

I'll say this loud: You do not need to up the fuel pressure to run 3.5 EFi on a 3.9 It is a Mass-airflow system and hence will inject fuel in the correct proportion to the amount of air your engine ingests. I ran 3.5 EFi on my 3.9 for years with no problem whatsoever. Admittedly only two weeks of that was on flapper before I MegaSquirted it though

Got to be some mileage in this sort of thing - and you can offend two sets of anoraks at the same time I'm still trying to persuade Jan that this is what to do with the mini once George is built

I am currently loving Zinc Phosphate primer, auto paint factors sell it. You'll need to thin it otherwise it can go a bit like treacle when you try to paint it on

Ask Twizzle about his Panda 4x4, I doubt that was even 1000kg with a tank of fuel and Twizzle sat in it. Mark's hot-rod thing (when it was working) was about as light as you could get on a RR chassis & drivetrain, although there was scope for removing a lot more weight from it as he had a lot of excess chassis brackets etc. he could've tidied up, and a better take on the roll hoop and weather-proofing would be desirable A truck I love is Phil's buggy, it runs "little" 235/85 tyres, rover axles with lockers and fiddles, doesn't even have a winch, but around Slindon where they play he can put it anywhere, and quick. None of it is rocket science and it's been about for ages so there's ways you could improve on the theme. Mind you, he is also rather good at driving and you can't buy that from the adverts in LRO

Your car must be as weak as a kitten then

That's a different leak

My sump's stuck on with the genuine LR black goo which seems to work pretty well - it doesn't leak anyway

Oops! This is why I tend to lacquer MS PCB's with conformal coating when I know they're going to a Land-Rover based home

It seems to me that what people want is an off-road festival, not a 4x4 show / trade fair. We want a 4x4 version of Glastonbury, not the open-air HMV we currently have. And I agree that Kirton sounds like a winner of a venue, just as long as Rog is kept too busy to ask me about his megasquirt

Why - that's the best suggestion of all! And it's quicker than pratting about with the current lot (we have proved this on numerous occasions)

Not that this will be much help but on the 109 I used Range Rover gearbox mounts that bolt to the chassis, and then the plain square RR x-member. I understand some (defenders?) the box is supported by the x-member?

My battery I just measured the hole and asked for the biggest one that would fit, you can't have too much capacity. Any decent battery supplier / motor factors should be able to sell you a Durite universal battery clamp, this is a whole £2.42 from VWP: You just drill two holes and poke the rods through. Or you could do as Nige has and make a clamp up from 8mm plate and four huge HT bolts

So it's over-fuelling, this can be several things; 1) Temperature sensor, if it thinks it's cold it will inject more fuel. There is the coolant temp sensor (NOT the cold start thermotime switch or the temperature gauge sender) on the front top of the inlet manifold, it's the sensor nearer the plenum mouth. There is also the inlet air temp sensor in the airflow meter but you can't change that, only the whole AFM. 2) AFM reading wrong - do they ever read right? 3) Too much fuel - Fuel pressure too high due to broken regulator, or injectors leaking. Splice a clear inline fuel filter (£1 from the motor factors) on the return line from the regulator, you should see fuel returning through it at a decent flow especially at idle. Leaking injectors are harder to diagnose, you'd have to pull the fuel rail & injectors up so you can see the tips then run the fuel pump (poke the flapper so the pump runs) to see if they leak. 4) Dodgy ECU - if you can borrow a known good unit, try that. Better still, replace it with something not made by Lucas BTW the relay you mention (black, white, black/white wires) is a lucas bodge, it's connected to the pressure switch near the fuel pressure regulator and switches off the signal from the coil to the ECU on over-run. ECU thinks engine has stopped so stops injecting fuel. Obviously this lash-up was far better than putting a proper fuel map into it in the first place

A mate bought his from a farmer oop north who seemed to have a contract with the local electric board to buy everything they had. BT sell their vehicles direct and then punt them out to auction when they get bored I believe, could be worth ringing the electric board or sticking your head into the nearest depot.

You have to know why you want a suspension kit - what do you want the vehicle to do that it doesn't do currently? Do you want more lift, flex, heavier duty, bling to pull the laydeez?

This sounds like more of an EFI problem than needing a rising-rate regulator. Sort your car out THEN decide if you need bling bits or not, you could end up masking a different problem otherwise. Your injectors will work at 37 or 42 PSI, I believe the stock FPR's are the same for flapper and hotwire, indeed most Lucas 14CU systems seem to run the same pressure (37) although Bosch do spec the injectors for 42psi. The FPR's function is to regulate the fuel rail pressure relative to the plenum vacuum so that the amount of fuel injected per squirt is constant. As for changing pressures / tweaking AFMs / etc etc if you start a diagnosis thread and post up all the stuff you're running and what the problem is then we can get to the bottom of what is causing your problem rather than blindly tweaking thing, spending money and listening to the Haynes Book Of Lies Flapper and Hotwire are MAF (Mass Air Flow) systems so you should not need to tweak them to compensate for a larger engine.

Credit to Nige for the job he's done on the wiring, for a guy who hates wires he's made a damn good job of it. Many LR owners think scotchloks are pinnacle of electronics I still have nightmares about all that lovely wiring terminating on two crappy old GLASS fuses but that's for another day, probably the day after he tests the wading depth with MS'n'EDIS And yes Nige, I like your new sig almost exorcised the prince of darkness, and now at least we've exorcised clockwork engine management too

Nicely done guys.

Again, we had big hassle getting a club stand at Eastnor and then turned up to find empty pitches around the place!