finnarne

Mine has been making that noise since it first landed in my driveway ~18 months ago.

Air compressor pump to level the car ? Mine does that, especially when i park in my driveway, as the driveway is not level.

For Pomerania Trophy ? For Adventure Class, it's 1700PLN; which is something like 370€ For Sport class, it 1900PLN, which is something like 415€ There is also Tourist and Lorry-class, which is lesser demanding (Lorry is for those with stock vehicles, but with larger than 32 inch tyres) Tourist is for stock vehicles, should be possible without winch, but ... Adventure Class is for slightly modified car with at least front mounted winch. Sport is for modified cars, with winch front and rear. We were placed in Sport class, as my car is clearly modified. On 90 with shortened front entered in the Adventure class. Adventure is the large class, we were 3 cars in Sport. Next Pomerania Trophy is in beginning of October: http://njz.pl/stronaeng.html But then again, this is of topic. Back to Croatia. I need to rethink my tyres and winch, I guess.

I guess I would get a problem with my D1 bobtail pickup as well, then. This year in Pomerania, we brought my car on a trailer, and stayed at the "hotel" at the camp site. Cost for us, driving from Norway through Denmark and Germany, the cost with 2 nights in hotel in Germany as well, ended up at approximately 1400 euro.

From the rules on the event site, it's not clear what the rules are. I'm not sure if they ever pay them any notice. Not sure how many of the cars that are actually road legal within EU. Only thing I can see as a clear difference between Adventure and Trophy-class is the demand for a rear winch in trophy-class. We planed to participate in the Adventure class. Someone said that I needed to replace my GoodWinch TDS9.5 winches before entering, at least the one in the front. I planed to replace my old 200tdi, which has made approx. 500.000 km and also replace the stock 24 splines halfshafts with heavy duty ones. I've now done the engine swap, now I've got a 300tdi with half the mileage, but still run stock halfshafts (and the rest), Not sure what Tires are needed, plan to get a new set of Insa Turbo Special Track 285/75R16 or something like that, but are a bit unsure. For Pomerania Trophy, we've used a set of old Wrangler 35 inches tyres, they work fine in the terrain, but not so fine in the mud. Hope to be able to enter CT next year...

If you replace the 200tdi with a 300tdi, get a Defender temp sensor, and Defender temp instrument. My 200tdi Disco instrument was not quite compatible with the 300tdi Disco sensor.

I also had to replace the water pump. I Tried to check the bearings and it felt fine when I installed the engine, but now, a few days after, it was ready to be replaced. Had a longer test drive today, and things look better.

I think the readings are not that far off, but I'll check with an infrared soon. I Agree on the heather. As said, I've replaced my 200tdi with a 300tdi. It seemed to run OK before we took it out of the donor, but It's some months since it was last running. I had a problem with the belt tensioner when I was about to take out the servo pump of the donor. It was stuck. The bearings was ok, but it wouldnt flex, so I had to cut the serpentine belt. When I had put the 300 into my car, and was about to mount a new belt, I remembered about the tensioner. I took the tensioner from the other 300tdi I have in my garage, that I originally had planed to put into my car. There is supposed to be a new tensioner somewhere in there as well, but I have to look... I've started the engine a few times, first after only filling the engine with oil, then after adding coolant and mounting the belt. But I still had no oil on the gearbox, so it was only for a few seconds. Then again after mounting transfer case and exhaust, I allowed the engine to run a few minutes. Still no bumper nor propshafts, so it was only to check that the exhaust was ok. This was on Tuesday. On wednesday I went to a club meeting to talk about building a trophy truck. Thursday I worked on my car until 00:30, I think. But I was sure I had fastened the pulleys on waterpump and servopump. Well, at the end of the workday, I checked the pulleys and the belt. Finding one bolt on the servo-pulley that I could fingertighten. I called my neighbor/co-pilot and he came with a 10mm spanner. I tightened all 6 bolt before driving home. Stopped on the way and got 2 new belt, I think the make was goodyear. Costs an arm and a leg (50£ each, but got a 20% discount) Made it all the way home, and checked the temperature again. I guess there still was some air locked inside the cooling system, when I arrived the temp gauge was at about halfway. Left it idling in my driveway a few minutes, and seemed like the thermostat was working. when idling in my driveway, the temperature lowered a bit, like normal. And there was warm air from the heather. I'll have to replace the tensioner, just have to dig for a new one in my garage first. And I have to replace the belt. So it looks like the gauge and the sensor works fine, and there was an air lock causing the raised temperature last morning.

I guess I would need to measure at several temperatures then ? Question then is. On the 300tdi Disco there were an ECU. on the 200tdi no such. Are the ECU involved ? Also, I'm thinking of replacing the speedometer and gauges of the 200tdi with the one from the 300tdi. How many of the signals could be used as is ?

I've just replaced my old 200tdi with a 300tdi with half the mileage in my Disco. And here is of course some small problems. First test drive today, I drove my disco to work. 5.3 km, Before that, I had only had the car running for a few minutes in my driveway, just to check for leaks and stuff. After 2 km I hear what think was the serpentine belt tearing at one or both sides. I think it's now down to 5 teeth(?), which is a bit few. Then I started to pay (more) attention to the temp gauge. I noticed that it had moved a bit more than it used to with the 200tdi. It almost hit the red area before i stopped at the parking lot. The serpentine belt is still 5 teeth, No leaks, and when I got out and checked an hour or so later, the coolant level was as I think it should be. There was no warm air from the heater though. The serpentine belt was a new Dayco. I think all the pulleys are tight, but will check before I leave for home at the end of the workday. Any tips on the temp gauge/sender issue ? I found a post on another forum saying he had put (I think) a 100ohm resistor in series with the sender, and then it showed the correct temperature.

There is a warning that comes with the turbo controller box, saying only use turbo mode when under load. But maybe that's only with a Bow1 motor.

When people ask about winches, I tell them they have to define their use of a winch. Most people have their winch sit in the bumper and collect dust, or here in norway, the collect salty water in the winter. When they try to use it every odd year, it wont work. Either because they forgot their remote, or they somethign is stuck, or another reason. I normally use mine a weekend a month at a typical playday. hopefully hepiung others. I also use it frequently when we go to our annual trip to Poland (just a couple of weeks now...) I used to have a setup with an old T-max winch, and a lookalike from China. One in the front, and one in the rear. Then I had one battery for starting, and one for winching and other auxiliary stuff. One Alternator to each system. When rebuilt my car as a bobtailed pickup last year, I got 2 winches from Goodwinch, together with a Goodwinch Turbo Controller. Removed the auxiliary Alternator, and used one battery for start and normal use, and the other one as the 24 turbo controller battery. Works like charm. I know the guy in Germany selling Goodwinch has a 3 battery/2 alternators setup, one alternator and battery for start and vehicle, and 1 alternator/2 batteries for the winch and turbo controller box. The turbo box works like to either put the 2 batteries in parallel (for charging), or ifturbo mode is selected, and winching in, running the batteries in series. In practice and under load, I guess you feed the winch with 18-22 volt. If you use your winch a bit, I would have had the Turbo box. I use the turbo controller on the front winch, and 12 volt only in the back. If your vehicle is 12 volt, I would have kept everything at 12 volt. New stuff in 12 volt is cheaper then new stuff in 24 volt.

Golden motor specifies their motor. They have a 20kw BLDC motor which could maybe be used if you add 2 motors. I have a 5kw motor in my sailboat, that I installed late last year, but did not get around to test it before winter came. I've been thinking about adding 2 electrical motors to the LT230 transfer case. With a rated power of 20-25 kw, and peak of 50kw , togethger with 80Nm rated torque /160 Nm peak Torque, if the numbers would double if 2 engines was instaled, then maybe it would be sufficient. It would definitly would be a funny project.

Yes, I'm going. Driving from here the Saturday before, I guess, and plan to arrive sometime between Monday morning and Wednesday afternoon. Then we're planing on driving north to Nordkapp either during the gathering, or afterwards. Then head back south. I fear that 14 days will be a bit short, but I also plan to spend some time in my boat.

The registration for the gathering is open. http://nlrk.no/default.aspx?pageId=388 Sorry for not answering your questions from October, I somehow missed the questions. Tuko answered the biking question, I'm sorry but I dont have any more information about climbing. I Guess the Camping will know a bit more. http://www.barducamping.no/bcamp/english.html

We had planed to enter, but also had some things that should have been fixed before entering, such as Engine swap and hd axles. And we set a deadline by end of Januar to enter. So it will be Pomerania Trophy this year again, hopefully with "new" engine, and with spare halfshafts

First you need to define why you need split charger, and 2 batteries. If for winching you need one setup, and for cooler box when camping, you need another setup.

Well, My neighbour made a decision. He is selling it. Or kind of. He is going to exchange it with what I think is a well kept 200tdi Ninety. He even gets some cash in between. And I would be very surprised if the new owner fail to get it starting. He bought the 110 Td5 in April, so he (end is wife) is kind of feed up. I guess it's better to start fresh.

Now the owner has gone on a tripptelleren the cabin for some days, but he has tried to start the engine a couple of times after we called it the night the other day. No luck. But then we started thinking on what was different from when we were able to start it a number of times with the 2 battery setup. First we had the alternator connected and the car wouldn't start. Then we disconnected the battery, and it started 6 out of 10 times. Has anyone experienced that a faulty alternator caused a non-starting Td5? But it also seemed to be some problem with the crank sensor, so that one is to be replaced anyway.

We have not yead pulled out a battery from a Td5, and put it into the 110. But the battery from the Td5 90 is worse than the one in 110, but the 90 start easier. The Nanocom is out on a loan 30 km away. I guess we'll get it back soon, but not before xmas. I think we have taken the holidays off for now. We've changed the injector seals, and reprogrammed the wrong injector. There is the (normal) whining, first at low pitch while the glow plugs are on, then the higher pitch afterwards (some seconds after the glow warning lights go off). The whining from the pump stops as soon as we stop the starter. If we disconnects the crank sensor, the whining from the pump wont stop until we turn of the ignition. I think that is normal. But I dont think we hear any gurgle. No. This one wont start ther purge/bleed mode, even if we pumpt the throttle pedal 10 times. Believe me, we've tried. But thank you very much for your help anyway

We've considered exchange the starter engine between one of the working td5's and with this one that gives us trouble. But it's wet outside, and the only garage that we're able to get a car into is this one were the one which wont start is in. And we're a bit afraid of messing with the fuel line, since we are not able to bleed the fuel system.

My neighbour has a somewhat troublesome 110 TD5. It's a P10, my 1999 or 2000 i think. He has had some problems with his car, and should actually had returned it after he bought it. But he has kept it, and al sorts of trouble has turned up. Well, maybe not that many, but enough that he hasn't driven the car to much. When he fetched it, it was a bit hard to start, and had a leak in the coolant system. He was told that one of the injectors were not programmed correctly, and that caused the problem with the starting. At some point he checked the coolant fluid, and found diesel in it. Changed the diesel cooler, and it looks like the diesel has vanished from the coolant fluid. At some point it also seemed like the cooleant leak also vanished. but I guess it cfame back, cause he changed the thermostat housing (and thermostat). Now to the hard starting problem. If he tries to use the starter, the engine turns over, but fails to start. If he gets the car rolling, it starts with no problem. He get some help from a mechanics, who thinks the trouble is with the Ignition barrel, and adds a push button. It help some, but only for a short while. The starter stops working, and he fixes the starter with the Denso starter solenoid kit. Well, the engine turns over again, but still wont start. When I listen to the engine, it turns very slowly. He buys a new battery, but I'm not sure if it ever starts using the ignition. I'll ask him later, I think he's a sleep now. We also change the Fuel injector seal kit, and it starts a bit easier (when the car is rolling), but still wont start in the starter engine. The car has an Defa cold-start block warmer, with so called integrated charger. It's a constant 13.2 volt thing, that actually destroys the battery. To top that, someone has installed a seat heater thingy, with a relay, connected so that the relay draws constanlty 0.2 amp, so the battery is ruined in just a few days. Without a proper charger the battery is almost ruined. We're able to jumpstart the battery using his Disco2 TD5 and let the jumpers stay connected for 5 minutes. So we guess it's just a bad battery. Well, he borrows one of my chargers, and looks like we manage to get the battery back. But the car still wont start. Or when he tries at home, it wont start, but when he tries after fetching his kid from kindergarten, is starts on the ignition (still using the pushbutton). But I think that was the last time in some time. He takes the battery back to where he bought it, to get a new one under warranty, as it does not really hold that well. The denied, as the battery was still able to deliver the specified CCA. Well, I cant blame theme, as I know what's happened to the battery, and I dont blame him, I guess I would have done the same. Well, the starer problem is starting to bother me. He is nearly giving up on the car, and considering selling it. But for some reason he buys a new set of wheels for it. Ok, it stays. We just have to fix the staring issues. We've got some Diesels in the neighbourhood, I have my 200 tdi and a Td5 Disco, my other neighbour has his 300 tdi disco, (Actually he bought a 90 TD5 in the meantime but.. ) We connect the 300 tdi wit6h jumpstarter cables, but it wont fire. Then we switches batteries taking first on, the 2 batteries from the 300tdi into the 110 td5, but no help. Then we connects the 110 battery to the 2 Disco batteries using jumper cables, but no start. Then we start to look at the cables for the diesel pump, and pull a bit in the cables. then I try a "last time", and the beast starts. I Manage to start it a few times, then that's it. But each of the batteries are able to start the 300 tdi without problems. I put one of the batteries on charge for a couple of days, then we try again. But first we put a new connection between the ground point under the ECU, and negative battery connection (ve-?). No help. Then we start to look at the starter again. Looks like there is time for new starter solenoid kit again. A bit to soon, but maybe he got a bad set ? He took the starter to a mechanics, who looked at it. Ok, it's a bit worn, and should be replaced, but it should not cause these problems. Back again tonight, we made a new cable for earth, and connected it from Battery negative and directly to one of the bolts of the starter. No help. Then disconnected 12volt positive from the starter, and instead connected a newly charged battery directly to the starter. No help, or maybe. Then we disconnect the alternator from the starter as well. No help. then I wiggle (?) the connector to the flywheel sensor a bit. Almost. Then one more time. And it starts. Once. We try a few more times. then we take out the flywheel sensor, and give it a try a few more times. Then we get a pattern. If we let the glowing finish, and waits until the Fuel pump starts at "full throttle" again. Then we push the start button, and it starts. Again and again. With 2 batteries and no alernator. One of the battery on the floor. Ok, it's time to test with one battery again. But no help. But no, this battery was really low. When the staring fails, the fuel pump shuts down after we try, until we disconnect the flywheel sensor. Then the pump wont stop. So it seems like the flywheel sensor sort of works. But I think he is ordering a new flywheel sensor anyway. Another option is that maybe the pump fails. It seems to work ok, but we've not tested with another one yet. It's a 110, so he need s to take the tank down, or make a hole in the floor. But the car has another problem. We think it needs a new fuel pressure regulator, and that's what's causing it to eat the starter solenoid kits, but we're a bit afraid to do to much, as we're not able to bleed the diesel system. We're trying to pump the accelerator pump after turning on the ignition, but it wont start the bleeding process. Not sure if we should be able to start the process using the nanocom. Are there any other way to start the process ? Anyone knows what could cause the bleeding procedure not to start ? It should start even if the battery is a bit low ? Or, how much voltage should there be to start the procedure ? Any help and suggestions are appreciated.

Here is is a thread on the international part of the Norwegian forum http://www.lrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=79485

It will be held at Bardu, only 10 hours drive from the very top of Norway (and Europe), although you should schedule some more hours for the drive. There are cabins availible, and you may camp using tent or trailers, or rooftent, or whatever. You can leave your flashlight at home, but do bring your winter garment. There will be more official information in English on the Homepage of the Norwegian Land Rover club (http://nlrk.no), but maybe some of you will start planing ahead. It's a long drive up, And of course lots to see. I myself, will drive with my wife up and I guess down again, taking the shortest route to Trondheim, where we have some family. Then we will continue up to Bardu. We've not decided yet the routes. There will be some posibility to ship the car with the railroad back south, I think someone mentioned a cost of around 200£, from Narvik to Drammen. I guess it would be possible to ship it up by train as well, but that's a bot more expensive. Most new cars in Norway arrives in Drammen, and those heading for customers up north are shipped by railroad up. There will be some Land Rovers driving up from Southern parts of Norway. From Kristiansand, it's 25 hours/1800km From Larvik, it's 23 hours/1600km From Oslo, it's 21 hours/1500km All, distances calculated by Google. link to google map

Made a video of the 200+ pictures taken during the almost 2 months long build.