finnarne

One question for those who has done a LongRanger build, Do you add any reinforcement between the B-post ? I had to add a small bar in the rear of the cab, whenm I did mine, and I had already added the structure from the side of the root to the rear. Here is what I needed to add Sorry for disturbing your thread.

I guess the kit from LongRanger saves some time, yes.

Nice build. I sometimes thinking of selling my D1, and start to convert the D2 that my wife think is hers. If i do the build once more, then I would go for LongRanger. How long time did it take ?

Are you sure the belt is mounted correctly ? Her is how mine was mounted:

A couple of relays does the trick. Sorry for the text beeing in norwegian, but I'll try to explain. The 4 pin NO relay: Ignition or Charge light into 86, and ground on pin 85, with 12 volt feed into 87 and out on pin 30. Then you connect this to parking/tail light. The 5 pin Alternating relay: From park light switch into pin 86, and ground on 85. From 12 volt feed into pin 87. And from pin 87a to DRL-lamps. This ould be 21 watts positionlights up front, or dimmed headlight, or LED DRL or ... And Then From pin 30 on the 4-pin relay to 30 on the 5 pin relay (same as park/position/tail lights). But you do problem is that you could get both 5watt and 21watt "parking light" at the same time...

I replaced the stock intercooler on my 300tdi with a larger Alisport-one, and the EGT was lowered ~20-30°C on the highway, running 90-100km/h. I also moved changed so I measure pressure on the intake manifoil (after the intercooler), instead of Turbo housing (before the intercooler). The wastegate pressure also comes from the manifoil. Turbo pressure is ~1.2 bar.

Anyone who has done any business with rock-sliders.co.uk recently. We're trying to get in touch with them, but they wont answer email or phone it seems. We were thinking of 3-4 pairs of tree/rock-sliders, and some tankguards, but at least one has found another solution.

Is it possible for you to release some kind of build instructions/drawings now that Lego has turned your idea down?

I've run without for 2 years/~28000km without problems. The car is used both on and off the road. Cant say I noticed any problems, and it's easier to clean without the shields.

Well the front bumper is already done. First some pictures from the headlight wraparound (or what to call it) Some weeks/months later, and it already got som paint on Then I started on the bumper Old and new bumper side by side The old one, which actually is wats left of the original bumper wight in at 8 kg. The new one waighs 15kg. The winch sits mounted in the steering guard, as far back as possible to get lesser wight on the front axle. And the final result

We went to Pomerania this year as well. For the first time with the car on a trailer, behind the D2, the family car. Finished second in the Sports class, but there was only 3 teams. There was a lot more teams in the Adventure class, and we wouldn't finish on second place in that class, but we would have finished top 10. I think there was ~30 teams in the adventure class. The car drove well, But we had some problems with the tyres. Old 35 inch Wrangler Duratrac was not the best in the mud. My co-pilot was also exhausted after the driving on Friday, so there was no night driving this year. I made a new rule for my self on the Saturday, to not use higher than 3rd gear in the woods. So all in all, we were satisfied. After that, I replaced the tyres with 255/85R16 BFG KM2. I've been 2, actually 3 times at Rena (450 km one way), east, but still south in Norway, with driving in some "rocky roads" using the new tyres. In July, me and my wife took the car up north. First stop was in Bardu 1750km from home , at the Annual gathering for The Norwegian Land Rover Club. Then we made a short trip up to Nordkapp 1300 km roundtrip from Bardu, during 29 hours. I also tested a new co-pilot during a local 24 hour trophy, but finished after ~13 hours. First we broke a rear half shaft on the second track. Then there was an accident on the road home, Not us, we took the time (1-2 hours) to get a Jeep out of a track. He first got stuck we got him loose, then he got stuck again. And so one. Also, since I only had the front axle working, I had limited possibility to get into the track, to get better angles on getting him loose. After 2-2½ hours we drove home (~1 hour drive), replaced the half-shaft, ate some dinner, before driving back to the competition. We then did 4 or 5 other tracks until we snapped the winch rope. We got some help getting loose, and decided to give up at ~2am. We also bent the front bumper, so then I had a new project. I also had to fix the wraparound for the right headlight (not sure if that is nearside or offside?). It actually broke in may, 2 days before MOT, but I fixed it temporarily. I got a quote on the wraparounds from Bolt-On-Bits, but decided to use my new selfmade in mild steel.

To close this one as well. New owner replaced the starter with the one from his Disco2 TD5, and problem was solved. Ordered a new starter. Then he started to fix the rot. I think he is still fixing it... So even if the starter was able to turn the engine, it was not fast enough to start it.

Update on this thread, just to close it properly. Problem reappeared after the pump was replaced. The new pump also made a lot of noise. So I changed the injectorseals/copper washers, And it started fine again. Small test trip, and everything seemed fine. Then next day, My daughter and wife took the car for a longer trip. After ~20km it stopped again. I came to rescue, It was hard to start, and there was a lot of smoke. The problem was the cleaning of the seat for the injector (washers). Got the car back home, pulled out the washers, heated them , cleaned and reused them. This was in June 2015. The car ran fine for half a year before it stopped again the first time on Xmas eve. I ordered new washers/seals, And was able wait until a month ago to replace the washers. Then it started with the Disco Td5 kangeroo thing. Replaced fuel filter, dieselpump (again, the last one was a cheap one), then the seats. The start problem was solved once again, but I had to replace the wastgate modulator, to get it to run nicely again.

The engine is not warm until we've driven 3-5 km, but the Gearbox is happy after 2 km and locks in at 86km/h if traficc will allow. New thermostat last year, and i've driven with an electrical fan since may. (no time to order a new one before leaving for Poland). The fan is manually controlled, using the fog light switch, so it's seldom used.

How big is the motor (Kw), how many rpm ? Looks like you plan to use a drivebelt ? What gear ratio on the drivebelt ?

How long until it's warm enough ? My D2td5Auto are warm enough after approx 1.5-2 km abnd it locks in 4th when I do more than 83km/h on the speedo (86km/h GPS), running 245/75R16 tires. no big difference on the ouside temperature, I think it's the same from -5 - +20 degrees celsius.

Are you just changing the bulbs ? Then I guess all you need is a pair of resistors for the direction indicators. Or have you bought a set of new lamps with led in them.

Anyone got more info than "expensive" ? He got a quote from a polish company that said somewhere around 8000GBP including parts and labour. I think that was without taxes, as he would have to pay them when the car is returned to Norway.

OK, the sixwheeler has come closer to getting on the road again. The paperworks has gone through, and it's got it's licenceplates. Now It's legal to use on the roads again. Now it's ready for it's next step Obviously, it's not going to be used as a recovery vehicle, so the owner is currently thinking of doing a bit of modification. But he is not sure if he wants to do the modifications himself, so he is looking for some garage to do the work for him. Here is a list of things he want to be done: Replace the V8 with a TD5, with new gearbox, ECU, wiring and everything that is needed. Change from RHD to LHD New suspension with 2" lift. Change the body from van into pickup, DCPU roof and rear wall, long pickup tube. full respray. There is not that many garages here that are capable of doing this work, so he is looking abroad. Does anyone have some suggestions on garages in UK that could do this ?

The electric on my D2td5 starts up when the engine gets hot. First time I noticed when I had non working thermostat, and I had put some cardboard in between the radiator and the oil cooler for the automatic, and drove on the highway. This was during winter, and normally it would not be a problem. Second time was after I removed the viscous fan before towing my bobtail Pickup down to Poland, and I forgot to switch on the electric replacement fan when towing through a german city (I think it was).

I run spacers on my car. The ones I run is 30mm each, so that widens the track by 60mm on each axle. There is a strict set of rules at what modifications we are allowed to do here in Norway, so things such as Lift kit, bumpers, after market steering wheel and also spacers is normally not allowed. My co-driver also had problems with the seats he had in a 110 some years ago. I think it was some Recaro seats. Dont even mention roll-cages. Some of these things will pass if they have TÜV-approval. Then things get into the car documentation. In my documentation, I have TÜV approved lift kit, and TÜV-approved spacers. The spacers are(was) from Hoffman. I've now replaced the spacers with others as I only had them on loan for the approval procedure I'm not sure if I've noticed any more wear on the wheel bearings then without. But I've also ran the car on wheels with no-standard offset. (ET-8 and ET-15 vs ET-33) If I remember correctly, My car now should have ET-15 + 30mm spacers, so in effect it should be ET+15, that is 48mm on each side. That means 96mm wider than normal. I do run 30 spacers and ET33wheels, so it's maybe a bit better. But then again, the approved tyres are 205R16, or 235/7016, but I'm running on 255/85R16.

Are you using the temp sensor from the original engine, or are you using the one that came with the new engine. And the same with the gauge ? I 've changed from 200tdi to 300tdi in my car, and the gauge was way off. Bought a set of 3rd part gauge/sensor, end now the gauge stays at ~80°C when idling after the engine has heated up. When it get warm its goes up to close to 100°C. With the sensor that came with the 300tdi, and the gauge that is from the 200tdi, the gauge read "very hot" when the gauge now says 80°C. End whenever I played in sand or went up a hill, the red warning light started to flicker.

I love my MXS7.0 as well. So do my neighbours.

Just Done 5700km in 11 days in my Bobtail pickup. Made a rear rollbar, and fitted my roof-tent at the top. Mileage was about 8-10 litres pr 100km with the "new" 300tdi, 255/85R16 BFG with Discovery gearbox. Started her at home in Grimstad, south in Norway, visited some friends in Elverum, then meet with a friend with charging trouble in Trondheim, and stayed one night 100 metres of the road at Namsskogan, in Troendelag. Visited some family in Bodoe, before we headed to Bardu where the annual Land Rover Gathering took place from 20-24. of July. Took a "short" trip on Tuesday up to Nordkapp, were we met/ Todd/tuko on his way south. Slept a couple of hours and had beatiful midnight sun at Nordkapp at around 00:45. Went back to Bardu on Wednesday. On Thursday we went on a trip to Senja, which is said to be a Norway in miniature, with fjords, "mountains", woods, waterfalls etc. Friday was a slow day, with meetings, Todd/tuko arrived, and we had a chat. Saturday we headed back home, went by Saltstraumen, just south of Bodoe, before we headed back to the "main road", E6. Slept by the road near Mo I Rana, before visiting some family in Troendelag. Monday we drove by Hjerkin/Dovre and down to Alta, and stayed overnight at Rena, were there was a Offroad event. Sadly we had to leave early on Tuesday to get home, because of some family matters. The main goal for us was the LRC event at Bardu, second goal was Nordkapp. We should off course used a lot more time, and should have taken the outer road from Bodoe and down to Steinkjer in Troendelag, with 5-6 ferries, but our time table did not allow it. Take a look at www.northernnorway.com, there is a lot of tips. Not sure if taking the route through Norway or Sweden is best, the roads may be better in Sweden, but maybe more eventful in Norway. Also, when driving through Norway at normal speed 80-100 km/h, our mileage was 8-9 litres pr 100km. When we did 110 km/h the mileage increased up to 10-11 litres pr 100km. And people say that in Sweden you drive through the woods, with nothing but trees to look at. But if you already are in eastern Sweden, I guess the swedish route will be faster/shorter. Tips #1: There is a lot of toll roads in Norway, I think they will collect the money even in the UK. Take a look at autopass Tips #2: although not as big a community as in UK, there is a big community in Norway as wel, with people from Sweden and Denmark also on the lrforum.com If you get in trouble, there are people who can help.

Finally managed to look through the videos taken during Pomerania Trophy last spring. There was som hours of video, I've narrowed it down to 10 smaller videos, and 70 minutes in total.