Hazza

To prevent the galvanic corrosion: Buy some rolls of rubber approx 2mm thick, eBay will be your friend here. Use it between all chassis brackets and bodywork. I think the roll I have was about 10m long (still have loads left!) and 50mm wide which is plenty and is easily trimmed with a Stanley knife. Also get a load of 6mm and 8mm rubber washers for the same purpose.

You could try pulling the transfer box off and welding the gearbox splines then grinding them back to shape. It's not a long term solution but would get you moving again for very little cost. Mine's done about 2000 miles like this.

I did something similar using the vents out of a classic mini. Still have the ability to select demister or footwell vents using the original lever. The restriction is enough in the demisters that opening my new vents with footwells off gives a good flow of air!

No photos but there is a relay, it takes a feed from a voltage sensing relay before it'll operate. Mine (1990 200tdi) is located behind and below the dash binnacle.

I had similar symptoms with the relay kit I used for my headlights. Cheap 'waterproof' fuse holder was letting in moisture and corroding the terminals leading to more resistance and a melted fuse. All replaced now and seems much better!

Seems this is a bit of a grey area! Maybe stick to the rules that best suit you but keep a print out of the .gov we page that doesn't mention MAM to show plod?

.gov website still states MAM: https://www.gov.uk/driving-licence-categories That's what I'd go by

I'm pretty sure weigh bridge weight is somewhat irrelevant. My understanding is it's the max authorised mass of vehicle and trailer that are taken into account. The 110's MAM is normally between 3050kg and 3500kg. So no you cannot tow a sankey unfortunately. You are limited to a trailer with MAM 750kg.

Another vote for Britcar, they've been brilliant with everything over ordered for my rebuild

Heritage were good for me, free skytag tracker too

My experience with the dvla is that if you point out the flaws in their initial advice they will pass it to someone who actually knows what they're on about. Example: I changed a blue, petrol, 110 ambulance into a green, diesel, 110 hard top - DVLA's first response was that in needed a full inspection as I'd made significant body type alterations... I pointed out that the alterations were limited to changing the name on the V5c. Shortly after a new and corrected v5c landed on my doormat.

I picked up a used steering box from a puma engined defender.PO had removed as it was leaking, cap full of brake fluid to swell the seals and all is well!

I've got one of those numax 10amp chargers in the landy camper, very happy with it so far.

My lt77 equipped 110 had no unused splines, they had worn the whole way along. I have tried a cheap quick fix but will keep this to myself until I've got a few more miles on it.

Agreed, no key needed here either

Not sure I'd risk not having a locking cap...i know the tank is easy to drain but this would make it that but easier to do subtly!

I did the same on my 110, just be aware that the tank has no breather so you might find (as I did) that it develops either massive negative or massive positive pressure! I had to fix a breather into the Filler neck using a push fit bulkhead fitting.

Just a quick pointer, do not buy the bias valve I recommended. I picked up the Landy today ready to do a trip up to Scotland, jumped on the brakes to find the fronts locked and the brake warning light came on. Turns out the valve is leaking and letting air in along the shaft into the rear brake lines. The landy is now back to how it was before.

Calipers work fine, the brakes are all brand new. I think it's simply a lack of g valve that caused all my issues.

The gauge in my Defender spec 200tdi reads too high with gauge part number prc7311. I think this is the TD gauge?

Interesting, on mine the rear brakes come from the end nearest the driver (Original steel brake pipe). Goes to the right hand side (as you look at it) of the PDWA. There's still no G valve though!

My understanding is the g valve is very sensitive to its orientation. Needs to be mounted at a precise angle to function correctly I.e. Under braking. The adjustable valve that i've fitted just needs to be in the rear brake line. Mine is in the engine bay.

I fitted ebay item number 321538576098 It seems to have done the job very nicely!

Interesting, I didn't realise that the PDWA could affect bias? Is there a valve in there as well as the switch then? And point taken regards the bias valve, I'm going to remove the knurled knob once I'm completely satisfied with the bias.

To update this thread, I've fitted an adjustable bias valve and the difference is enormous!