oddballrovers

HI Folks. Just high jacking this tread and putting in a comment. As I am thinking of doing some home made internal beadlockers out of some 8 spokes I just wondered, do anybody have any experience on how the relation is betwen the width of the sleve one put inside the tyre and the width of the rim, I mean how much is it that the bead has to be squeezed to make the system work?? And the comment: Why not fit the tyres like the tractorpullers do, they just screw in a whole lot of selftapering 6mm screws in the bead through the edge off the rim and that holds a lot off abuse they run presure at 3-5psi!! just a thought. Regards Ole.

Hi Mark It just strikes my mind that I once spoke to Roland at Automotive and he did talk about the 200 head being much more responsive to porting than ie the 300, and that the cam he has developed for the petrol 4 cylinder also goes well in a diesel, re the last I think he is right I have measured the cam he sells drawn the diagrams and compared with both std petrol and it looks as it should work, just timed as the std diesel perhaps advancing it a few degres would be good. For the rest large bore exhaust espcially the first 4' right after the turbo, it will help spool-up, wraping the manfold up with ceramic, also helps that. Balancing removing weight from the moving masses and so is also good. Timing the pump is also importent and the propper pump set-up ( injection time not just timing) is a must if you want to go more that the average tweak and larger IC. I havent got any experince with the VNT but has surched one for a 300TDI wich is relatively cheap good for 150-160BHP airflow vice, and mechanicly possible to use, but then again one has to do the fabrication off a manifold. Or shovel out a lot off hard earned cash to either MD or Allard who sells cast minifold to use with a VNT. Personally I would however for a pure challenge vehicle use a blower with water injection plus the the above mentioned internal tweaks, for a mixed use vehicle the turbo solutions is best seen from my point off viev. Good luck Regards Ole.

Hi Sooty Off course, can't have been up to propper brain speed last night. Regards Ole.

Hi Sooty I might sound a bit daft, but what does FMIC mean and what is the advantage of running a 300 pump?? Regards Ole.

Hi Lewis. I think you are right up to a certain point, if one do understand russian it might be different, I had hoped to have got a far better underststanding off what it is all about, what classes there are and so on. That said it is great to see folks fight the elements in the way they do and even when it is at its worst keep up a good spirit. And I am great full that the folks here on the forum have done so much work so we all can have a look at what them "spannerboys" do when they go there!!! Regards Ole.

Hi Folks. Just back from a meeting where there rules and regs for next year was revieled, and it apears that the board has deciede to put a lot off restriction on our class. We can no more move/change the place where the shocks are fitted so it is not possible anymore to run something like Gon2far shock "towers". So I have to make the best out off the existing points. My question is then what is the length off the shocks to use in front and rear I mean max/min length? I have planed to runProComp 9000 front and 3000 rear. I have had a look on some that are 12" min, that is measured on the truck when the spring is fully compressed but is it to short? How much will the bump stop be compressed if one goes airborne for short time? If I find out that it is oki to run OneTon/military shackles what is the length then for the front and rear shocks then? Regards Ole.

Thanks folks Looking forward to see some off all your goodies. Regards Ole.

Hi. Recieved mine today, watched it tonight, great fun even the missis had a lough over the knitting. Great to see so many people have so much fun fighting the elements. Thanks to whom did a great deal off work to get it to us all. Regards Ole.

Hi folks Thought I would share my kitchen tabel work for tonight it is just made so that my tube bender man cansee what it is going to end like. Comment are of course welcome. Cheers Ole.

Hi Nige. Thats is the exactly what I have read, and tha tis where the 50mm come from, but 4-6 inches sound more like it even when strap in, and one knows that in a challeng jumpingin and out it will never be as tight as in comp.... The side bar issue is not that big as we have some good bucket seats, so unless we do drop out off them it should not be a prob.. cheers Ole

Hi Folks. I am now in the proces off designing my cage for the LWT for next years Competition's. I have read the RAC rulebook and the MSA and the danish eq, but have only found something regarding it in the RAC book. And it says that the distance has to be at least 50mm wich I personally think is not very much bumping around in a LR at 50MPH across the mother earth, evne though one is straped in by the 4 point belt. 50MPH might be a bit on the high side since we do Challenge events, but that is timed stages off various length, we have a lot off jumping in and out both the driver and co pilot. So what is the experience among you ?? What will you consider as being "safe". Cheers Ole.

Hi Folks. Does anybody know if there is going to be a show in 2008 and if at what date, the Misses is planning vacation so I woul dlike not to have it to colide with the show if any. Regards Ole.

Hi Jolly good to hear, wonderfull picture, brave man traveling abroad in a softtop. Regards Ole.

EC776.pdf Hi Folks. A hint to be shared with you all. When I have either made or modified or even repaired a fuel tank I have often used this EC776 from 3m always with great succes then you are shure your tank is not driping or losing fuel at all. regards Ole. Data attached

As Fridge says: Letters in on a LR letters out is so Jeepish too bling bling for a propper 4X4

Hi Bill I have used polyeurathane bushes in my TIC paras and never had strange sounds, but they where also totally gresed in when fitted. The reason I am digging in to this is because I have watched specially front springs when they are fully compressed, then they have long before that started also to act as a torsional spring in their longitudinal direction, so in order to get some kind of releaf for the spring I thought that either the Orbit Eye wich Alcan Springs make or just some more flexibel bushes would be great. I can not use a system as IE GON2FAR used to make with a pivoting mounting, I will never get that through MOT here in DK. In the old days when I went trailing and used Metalistic's I always loosend up the bolts for the event and then tightened them again after and it gave some more travel. I have called numeros Spring makers and either they can/will not make a larger eye or they do not make the springs them self, but have them sub contracted in the fra east. Regards Ole.

Hi Tonk 38,1mm or 1,5" but ideally 2,5" and then use Johnny joints and jet something like on the picture. Regards Ole

Hi Les. Uhm bling bling stuff you have there, I was out and about in the yard today and took some measures on a LWT a Serie swb and a Series lwb on all of them the bulkhead was square to the line off the small brackets that carries the load off the rear tub so I think it will be fine to use that as you guide. Good luck Ole.

Hi Folks Now that I have found out that I cant have "orbiteys" on me springs I wondered if anybody has anything good to say about greasable bushes. Regards Ole.

Hi Folks If we are talking about the same then Kam do them stronger and longer. Regards Ole.

Hi Les. I suppose it is ment to be like that, at least that is where I start from when I have to assemble a whole Series, then I fit the rear tub and get that adjusted so that the doors lign up and then the rest comes. I have though never been able just to fit the bulkhead at 90deg and then fasten it there without having at the end to losen it up and move it a bit. I do not know if it helps you, but it is my experince over close to 30 years. Regards Ole.

Hi Bill Just what I thought off, but then this parallel thing stroke me!! When you say alter the oil level "hole" do you mean to keep a higher than std level or do you mean just to keep the std level ? I have thought about if it is not possible to make some kind off "thrower" thing that will throw oil on the front pinion bearing IE two small "flaps" on the pinion 1x1 cm and a small angel placed so that they are below the normal oil level or is it not to wory about as long as one keeps the level std? Regards Ole.

Hi Folks. Astro Al do mention one off my worries the oiling off the pinion, but how much is too much, is 2" oki or am I then already in trouble? or is there room for even more wich would be great. Re. Propshaft angles I have once been told that the drive flanges off the prop was best keet parallel otherwise strange wibes would arise. Anybody got any knowledge on this ?? Kind regards Ole.

Hi Toby. That cleared quite a few things, now I know why to run a a larger negative Castor. My Truck is a leafer a 1969 LWT so I have no radius arms but the principles are the same I gues. Regards Ole.

Hi Al Yes it did sorry not to respond re it, have send a donation before its arrival to the forum fond. Long before that the shafts did also arrive well and safe we have abused the rear onces this year and will allso fit the front ones next year in a new built axle with ventilated dics from a Chevy something I cant remember now and Allu calibers from an ALfa 1,8T Re.Angles since i am both tilting the transmission and increasing the axle travel, I thought that by tilting the pinions up wards I would reduce the propshaft angles wich is 45 degres ( make them myself off Series front axle yokes and agricultural yokes and some splines allso from an agricultural supplyer) Re Castor angle, I was off the impression that, for a to me unknown reason, the comp gys where running a none stock angle, would it not give you a different steer!!! I am for other reasons modifying the brackets on the axels so it would not be any trouble to do it while I was there. So the idea was to reduce the angle that the prop needed to negotiate, I am also moving the transmission 4" back so thats why. Regards Ole.